525 build thread

[gar381]

Peter

What is the size of the transformer cutout on the PCB??

David Geren at Cinemag says maybe the CMOQ-3S might fit
as its smaller than their 2503 replacement (CMOQ-2).

The CMOQ-3S looks like it requires a 32mm X 28mm hole.

These transformers are $25.55 USD each. Much cheaper than the
Sowter 9935 and easer to find than the ap2623.

Ed..... I'm also interested to see what you come up with. :thumb:

GARY

 

[babyhead]

I have a question about this schematic...

Why is there no capacitor or load isolator after A2?

It is either that the 2623 is DC capable or the DC output of the 2520 negligible. Or maybe something I'm missing...

Thank you.

 

[peter purpose]

[quote author="gar381"]Peter

What is the size of the transformer cutout on the PCB??


GARY[/quote]

Tis 1.1" x 0.9"

 

[peter purpose]

[quote author="babyhead"]
It is either that the 2623 is DC capable or the DC output of the 2520 negligible. [/quote]

The latter.

 

[peter purpose]

Mr. Ed Anderson of Brooklyn, come on down.

Good stuff Ed. Nice to have options.

peter

 

[gar381]

Thanks for the info Peter :thumb:

sounds like the Cinemag CMOQ-3S is to big :?


[quote author="peter purpose"]Mr. Ed Anderson of Brooklyn, come on down.

Good stuff Ed. Nice to have options.

peter[/quote]

Thanks for working on this Ed :thumb: :guinness: :sam:

GARY

 

[mata_haze]

Sorry guys for the silly question but:

what is the POT called RATT (10K) going to do?
on the original schemo it's underlined and therefore it should appear on the front panel,but it's not.
on the other hand it's on the new boards designed by Peter.

can anyone spread some light on this please?

many thanks.

 

[shabtek]

resistance attack

 

[mata_haze]

[quote author="shabtek"]resistance attack[/quote]

:roll: sorry,what would that do? I mean what sort of control would that be? I cannot see it on the original unit,
does any of you know why?

Best,
Mattia.

 

[peter purpose]

It varies the attack time.

 

[mata_haze]

[quote author="peter purpose"]It varies the attack time.[/quote]

thanks!

 

[peter purpose]

For the boys who bought kits only.....

I just started to put one together and the small switch pcbs are going to need the mounting holes elongating by about 3mm.
This will allow the pcbs to sit between the face and main pcb.
Tis dem pesky little brackets again..!!
Either that or make some little brackets up yourselves.

Well, I couldn't make it too bloody easy for you.

pedro

 

[Kid Squid]

Oi Oi big daddy P,

got the boards, and they look WICKED :grin:

:thumb:

 

[peter purpose]

:thumb:

 

[louder]

Hi Peter
just starting this project,let me ask you this:
in your bom,in the cap section,you have(what i used).
why?
because it was a improvement to the circuit,or because was what you had at hand?.
another:
rl1/rl2 led dependent.what`s this?.i`m ashamed to ask.
best regards
pedro

 

[peter purpose]

<<because it was a improvement to the circuit,or because was what you had at hand?. >>

Bit of both really.

<<rl1/rl2 led dependent.what`s this?.i`m ashamed to ask. >>

Don't be.
The in/bypass switch has provision for a tricolour led. Use whatever floats your boat to get the desired brightness.

peter

 

[Reptil]

:grin: parts hunting time...
any preference towards specific capacitors? (brand, type)
Panasonics too clean? (hope to turn this 525 into a personality)

 

[peter purpose]

Not being a cap snob and lacking the lug holes to tell the difference, I shove whatever I have in there.

peter

 

[BladeSG]

[quote author="peter purpose"]<<because it was a improvement to the circuit,or because was what you had at hand?. >>

Bit of both really.

peter[/quote]

Are those 50V caps necessary @ C15 + C16?

Will 25V caps work there or is the extra voltage handling part of an improvement in addition to going from 10uF to 220uF?

Truth is I have sh*tloads of FC 220/25v caps I can use here :wink:

 

[peter purpose]

25 volters will work fine in there, but check pin spacing.