strangeandbouncy
Well-known member
I saw one(D30) with it's cover of a cople of months ago, and I am sure the two capsules were the same . . .
Since it's constituted mainly of iron oxide (commonly referred to as rust), use a phosphoric acid-based rust cleaner. Just google for it, it is available from most car and diy shops. Don't be afraid by the concept of using an acid product on your cherished microphone. Phosphoric acid dissolves rust and creates a very thin protective layer of iron phosphate. Apply product with a brush, let it react for 15 minutes, rinse and repeat if necessary. Most suppliers of this type of product offer a passivating product. The use of such a product is justified only for large parts that cannot be rinsed properly. For your mic basket, rinsing under the tap for 30 seconds is enough to passivate.clintrubber said:Apart from that and assuming that trick does the trick, anybody a suggestion how to cleanup the dirty inside of the mesh-cage ? (see attached pic)
Bye,
Peter
eskimo said:Speaking of D19, I'm trying to get mine working...
I suspect those hair thin coil wires to be the problem. Any ideas or suggestions?
The funny thing is, the grille looks decent on the outside, the uglyness is just on the inside. But it gives the impression that it sort of congests the small openings, not sure.MagnetoSound said:BTW, I don't expect that any of these methods are likely to save the wind-resistant flock lining of your grille - but let us know.
clintrubber said:Assuming that the flock will indeed disappear, how important would it be for a bass-mic that will be used indoors 99% of the time ?
Oh yes please.............!!!SSLtech said:-Would this be worth photographing in case it helps anyone?
Keith
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