Anyone built the Beesneez DIY C12 Clone Microphone Body Kit?

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I’m not certain myself. The cap looks like a polystyrene cap in the photo? Am on vacation for a week so can’t get to it until next weekend, but want to see the voltage rating we’ll need - 630v sounds excessive for the resistor. I did hear back from Ben on the PSU - no mods needed (I got the producer as well)
 
No worries - sounds good, enjoy your trip! I just asked Ben for more specifics about the not included parts and will keep you posted if I hear back. Might fare better if we both move through this build together 8)
 
I didn't get the cap or the resistor either - looks like we got the same email!

He did say:
The missing resistor is a 100m and the cap can be anything from 2n to 10n


Can't wait to get this thing built!
Here’s what I ended up purchasing for the not-included parts in the kit to keep my momentum rolling, trying to confirm with Ben if it should work and keep the intended BNC12 sound:

Vishay Dale Resistor 100M
RES 100M OHM 1% 100 PPM 0.5W

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/vishay-dale/RNX025100MFKEE/2712891

Nichicon CAP FILM 10000PF 5% 100VDC RAD
10000 pF Film Capacitor - 100V Polyester Radial

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/QYX2A103JTP/2117777

(backup) Nichicon CAP FILM 10000PF 10% 50VDC RAD 10000 pF Film Capacitor - 50V Polyester Radial
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/QYX1H103KTP/2117678

(The already-connected wire on the board was 22awg, so I tried to match that) Hook Up Wire, 22 AWG Kit 200 pcs, 6" each
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/remington-industries/CS22UL1007SLD-5/12446892

Please forgive my extreme newbieness, just trying to pay it forward to chronicle my path and share my learns if anyone else ventures here in the future, I really benefited from the other build threads and existing help (and I probably should have started with one of those first).
 
Just in case anyone needs guts image of 888$ "km84 style" mic from the same manufacturer. Accent on the quotation marks.

The "matched pair" had different thickness of the backplate spacers and size of backplate holes.

Any similarity to other 30$ mics is coincidence.
hijack ahead...
Wow, that's pretty sobering. I have one of his K7 capsules in a mic and I love it. I had been thinking of buying his Lulu mics as I was very disappointed with the Bansai "KM84" mic kits. They sound nothing like a KM84 and nothing like each other as well. The PCB and components are fine and I even bought the AMI transformers. They don't get used. Good to know I should skip the Lulu's. Saves me some money. now, for a cheap mic that actually DOES sound like a KM84, get an Oktava Mk-012. I've used those side by side with real KM84's on multiple occasions. Close mic on a guitar, no one could hear when I cut from one to the other. Off-axis is a different story.
...end of hijack
 
Below are the rest of the instructions I received, I keep going around and around on what parts to buy for the not included missing resistor and cap mentioned.

Don't know if these instructions make better sense to anyone here that could make them more straight-forward, but I'm slowly trying to work through it (my questions at the end):

"The BC12 is an easy assemble kit that is perfect for budding electronic enthusiasts. Whilst assembly is simple, this does not mitigate the incredibly sensitive parts that are included.
These parts must be treated very carefully and preferably wearing latex or non latex surgical gloves to ensure no oils or pressure contamination.

Let’s start with the PSU. The PSU if purchased as part of the kit, comes pre assembled. This both helps with assembly time and safety."

XLR​

1 - B+ (125v)
2- H (6v)
3 - P (0-125v)
4 - Ov
5 - Ov
6 - Sig - Orange
7 - Sig - Yellow

Pin 2 tube socket to
Pin 9 "" ""15om Resistor

From PCB​


K Joins to Pin 3 tube socket
a Joins to Pin 1
Black wire a (-) goes to bridge pins on tube socket 5-9

XLR from the PSU is as such and should be followed in the microphone xlr as well.

Pin 1 = B+ (this is the high voltage of 125v that powers the anode of the tube).
Pin 2 = 6.5V (this is the positive for the heater filament)
Pin 3 = 0-125v (this is the pattern control pin)
Pin 4 = GND. 0V (this is the earth rail for the microphone)
Pin 5 = same as pin 4
Pin 6 = Orange wire from Transformer
Pin 7 = Yello wire from transformer.

For the Tube socket, we are only using a single triode bank and thus will earth the other bank to ensure low noise.

Tube socket Pin configuration;
Pin 1 = anode
Pin 2 = grid
Pin 3 = Cathode
Pin 4 = Heater filament Voltage (pin 2 from XLR)
Pin 5 to Pin 9 are joined to ground.

Connections from PCB
f = Capsule Front
p = Pin 3 XLR
+ = transformer red wire
- = blue wire from transformer
a = anode pin1 tube socket
k = cathode pin3 tube socket
B+ = pin1 XLR
GND = GND pin 4 XLR

On the bottom left of the PCB, you will see a resistor with only one leg connected to the PCB, you need to solder the supplied yellow cap (one leg to the loose leg of resistor and other leg to pin 2 on the tube socket (this is the grid)
You will also join the 2 x capsule centre wires to the loose leg of the resistor and capacitor (these are left off the pcb for noise reasons as fiberglass pcb has a low impedance than the grid circuit)

Hint, the transformer glues into the hole of the Blank PCB inside the microphone and the wires are then poked through.

there are various included Photo’s that will also help you assemble the microphone.

My starting questions:
  • Which loose leg do both middle capsule wires both connect down to? One resistor leg one cap leg? Both to one where the cap/resistor join? Does it matter?
  • Weird to me Ben told @johnsonic different values for the missing cap and resistor from what is written in the doc.
    • Capacitor -The instructions seem to mention a second 392k cap, but he said 2-10n would be fine too?
      • I've emailed Ben a few times for more clarity and no reply (I know he's super busy).
    • Resistor - The instructions say 15om resistor across pins 2-9, not sure what wattage rating is appropriate if I go with that.
    • Resistor - But Ben also recently told Johnsonic to use a 100M resistor?
    • Resistor - I can't make out in Ben's picture what the color bands to confirm what he's actually using.
  • The colors of cabling from the XLR to the pins on the back of the PCB are also confusing to me.
    • Pin 5 and 4 are the same? Does that just mean use jumper wire?
    • It says the orange and yellow wires from the transformer go to XLR pins 6, 7? It doesn't look like that's the case in picture 3?
  • Also the pack of my PCB has 4 pins all connected, in picture 3 it looks like 2 are removed and cables threaded through?
I don't know if these directions and build are really that confusing or if I'm just over-complicating things.
 

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The main thing I'm still confused with right now is the not-included resistor and cap that join tube pin 2 and connects to tube pin 9.
  • Ben's instructions mention a 15ohm resistor and 392k cap.
  • Ben's message to @johnsonic were 100m resistor and the cap can be anything from 2n to 10.
I've bought a variation of all of the above, and am not sure which route to follow. Functionality first (no fires), then best sound hopefully.

For a cap bridging tube pins in a mic, does the style matter?
I bought a 15ohm 5watt Vishay Mills, 15 ohm metal film and carbon film resistors (and another 15ohm 1watt specifically for audio as well).

Not sure if any you should not use or if it's just a matter of preference of sound. Since this C12 build seems different from the others on this forum, I'm not sure what a similar comparison would be.
 
I don't mean to troll your thread, but i congratulate you for patience with this one. Does Beesneez offer returns and full refunds? Just asking out of curiosity.
 
Not trolling at all, I appreciate any comments. I read in another thread here that someone was able to return a Beesneez mic body as much as 6 months out but I honestly haven’t looked into it, and I shudder at trying to send something back to Australia.

Ben did get back to me via email and apologized for the missing parts, he said he packed it himself. He’s on holiday overseas but will send the parts when he’s back. I have spent at least an extra $50 trying to buy various parts in hopes they’ll work, so I should be able to proceed soon. Super nice guy, and I’m pretty determined to try and work through this as I’m excited to hear how it shapes up, then move to more documented builds posted here. It’s tough dealing with someone as busy as Ben and different time zone but his kindness and quality makes up for it to me. Whereas to compare my experience but hopefully but not flame - the micparts guy responds in 2 minutes but usually makes me feel like an idiot with my newbie questions (so I’ve moved on from their builds).

I do wish I had a better guide though as some of the pictures are confusing about the cabling.

I’ve got the capsule mounted and will move on to the cabling and component adding soon and will document my progress for any feedback.

Hopefully my trials and stumbles will help other newbies out there too if this build shapes up as a winner!
 
Dangit I’m sorry @johnsonic, no - I didn’t buy it to save some money b/c I already have a Rycote. You should send that thing back, it was like $50!

btw, how’d your build go if you’re connecting it to a shock mount already?
 
Nooo don’t leave me alone on this @johnsonic! Haha but I will def. also make a matador/studio939 c12 clone when they’re back in stock so no hard feelings if you do.

qq for you John: when Ben’s instructions say the XLR pins 4 and 5 are the same, do you think that means join them with resister wire to center metal piece for ground? Or join 2 separate wires from XLR 4 & 5 and solder them both to the PCB point and leave the center metal piece alone? That’s my main remaining question before I get started soldering.
 
These “instructions” are mine so far but I thought I’d share as it doesn’t seem so bad once I mapped it all out. May not be any better than what we have already, but it’s mostly helped me figure out what connects to what, no matter what part you’re focusing on at the time and focuses strictly on the connections:
 

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Just in case anyone needs guts image of 888$ "km84 style" mic from the same manufacturer. Accent on the quotation marks.

The "matched pair" had different thickness of the backplate spacers and size of backplate holes.

Any similarity to other 30$ mics is
Haha we’re in the same boat at least, we got this! Maybe Ben can help give some tips or if anyone here has built one.

Also I’m in the states but the PSU was set to 230, and no wire was included, but I thought it was supposed to have everything that was needed to build it.
G'day. This was an oversight as 3 orders for these kits all came in in the same week. I packed the kits all side by side but did forget to include a resistor and a cap plus the afore mentioned wire. Also, I was just made aware of this thread so sorry for the late reply. I am more than happy to ship any parts needed at my cost next week once I arrive home again.
 
The circuit is km84, so that might be different, but 800$ worth of difference? This thread reminded me of these, and their common iron starved transformer that has nothing to do with either c12 or km84.

These have the same exact capsule as all of the mxl603 variants. Sound nothing like kk84 capsule.
Come on guys! let's not do this.

Transfomer (common; no, iron starved; no {measure the inductance before making comments please} our own design and manufacturing!
Powdercoating Done by us! (well a shop up the road actually)
Capsule (spacer size is used to match the capsules as in every other capsule ever made too) (each batch of capsules will have a slight difference in the bevel not the hole size))
PCB and components also populated and soldered by us. Average Australian wage in total inc superannuation and workers compensation is over $50.00 /hr and factor in some profit too. How many hours do you think it takes to make a mic like that?

we have sold over 15,000 of those since 2005.

The Neumann U87 ai has a total parts cost of around the same amount.
 
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