Anyone know how to get inside one of these old mic connectors?

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GrannyGremlin

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2024
Messages
49
Location
Toronto, ON, Canada
So I got this cool Aiwa omni dynamic HiZ mic at a pawnshop during a road trip. Sounds cool but the cable is super short (4ft) and annoyingly stiff. I wanna make a longer nicer cable but I can't figure out how to get inside the mic-end connector to the solder connections. The set screw seems to only release the strain relief spring. I tried pushing out the brown phenolic disk from the rear.

IMG_20241114_2055035.jpg


Looks like a Switchcraft 2501F, which are still available. I'd just buy another one but the price at Digikey is almost $40 (CAD). I've seen as low as USD15 but thats still stupid and I'd get dinged for shipping and brokerage fees crossing the boarder making it not much better. The part is AKA Amphenol 8075MC1F or Heathkit 432-1 (both disco'ed) and was popular for unbalanced mic connections on NAmerican PA amps (schools etc vs music venues), like my old Bogen (switched them out for 1/4" and modded for guitar). The one thing that would be good about buying a new one is that I assume it will be more obvious how to get in there to solde rthe wires on - perhaps this is the stock AIWA cable and it wasn't meant to be messed with (like a molded 1/4" today).

Anyway this is the mic:

IMG_20241114_2056403.jpg
 
If you screw that grub screw on the side of the connector into the connector shell so that it is fully inside the exterior, the shell may then slip off downwards.
 
Now thr spring is pulled back, is the cable loose? It may 'screw' into the connector so the cable braid makes contact with the shell.

In the Shure mics using the MC1F, the centre contact is soldered, is this one soldered?
If so, then desolder it and try unscrewing the cable.

To make up the Shure version, we pushed the cable through the spring strain relief, stripped back the cable insulation and screening braid,
then folded back the braid all around the outside spring, then carefully soldered the braid to the spring.
The centre conductor is stripped back as neccessary so that the insulation just touches the back (inside) of the connector hole when the spring is fully pushed back in,
then solder the wire leaving a slightly raised 'blob' of solder.
Once soldered, tighten the screw to fix the spring in place.
 
If you screw that grub screw on the side of the connector into the connector shell so that it is fully inside the exterior, the shell may then slip off downwards.
Negatory - I even tried completely removing the grub screw


Now thr spring is pulled back, is the cable loose? It may 'screw' into the connector so the cable braid makes contact with the shell.

In the Shure mics using the MC1F, the centre contact is soldered, is this one soldered?
If so, then desolder it and try unscrewing the cable.

To make up the Shure version, we pushed the cable through the spring strain relief, stripped back the cable insulation and screening braid,
then folded back the braid all around the outside spring, then carefully soldered the braid to the spring.
The centre conductor is stripped back as neccessary so that the insulation just touches the back (inside) of the connector hole when the spring is fully pushed back in,
then solder the wire leaving a slightly raised 'blob' of solder.
Once soldered, tighten the screw to fix the spring in place.

I can't get in there to desolder (I assume it is soldered, but can't really see in there).

Braid is not soldered to the spring (I assume to the shell).


....wait a minute, the connector's center conductor on a new 2501F is hollow, and mine is not - did they solder it in from the front.... looks like it might be... [firing up the iron to check] ... OMG that was totally it. Cable dropped right out when I melted the blob (the shield braid was folded back and would ostensibly make contact with the shell but not actually attached in any way. I will solder it to the spring when I put the new wire in.

Ah, on re-read I see that's what you meant by implication but I didn't pick up on that (or maybe just sub-consciously ;P ) - soldered from the outside not the inside.

Thanks y'all,
 
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