API 312 Thread!

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For you who plan to use Cinemag CM75101APC as input transformer,
I just got an email from David Geren and he told that we dont need to worry about RC and CC (the RC network on the secondary) if using this model. There's no need for them.

Just use RL = 150K and be happy!

cheers!
Fabio
 
Hello. I thought I would introduce myself. My name is Charles and I recently ordered a few boards from Fabio to make a channelstrip.

API 312 - Sontec EQ - What Compressor

I have been reading over the threads of the last 6 months. A lot of interesting stuff. I am really happy to have found this forum!

Charles.
 
I was looking at Dan Alexander's site hunting for 2 input trannys for my API 312s, and came across the AP 2164. I've seen the 2622 before in API 312 schematics, but can the 2164 also be used?

I've been told (never heard) that the older API input trafos have this smooth midrangy thing going on that contributed to the sound of the 312. I borrowed a 3124 from a friend that has the Jensens inside, so I've heard and used that, but never one with a vintage... or older API input transformer.

Any comments on this AP 2164?

Also, I'm having trouble sourcing the Grayhill for Fabio's board... heeeeeeelp !
 
[quote author="Greg"]Also, I'm having trouble sourcing the Grayhill for Fabio's board... heeeeeeelp ![/quote]I'm 99% sure it was this one:
Grayhill Switch
1-Pole:
Grayhill # 71BDF30-01-1-AJS
Newark # 91B8747
SERIES 71 ROTARY SWITCH, 1/4" SHAFT, ADJUSTABLE STOP, PC MOUNT, 1 DECK, 1 POLE/DECK, SHORTING
 
That's the correct Grayhill part #. I checked the website and didn't get any search results for that number. I think I might try to call them and see if they can come up with the part in a reasonable amount of time.
 
Hey Flatpicker,

How long ago did you search for the swithc part number? I can't find it in the the Newark website.

How about substitutes?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

Mike
 
Yea, the parts is Grayhill # 71BDF30-01-1-AJS , but can't find it on Newark also, just the non-shorting version of it! Digikey also have just the non-short...

Allied has it in the 2 decks version so you need to get one deck off it :S
# 948-0133 , 5 pieces only. Jay proposed a group order a while ago, that's how I got mine, it took 40 days oor so to get them...

You can use any 11 or 12 position shorting type switch you want, like CTS or Lorlin. I have the 11pos CTS digikey code at home you need it.

And Greg/Paul, didn't forgot about your lists guys... trying my best...


cheers!
Fabio
 
Thanks fabio for the CTS/Lorlin info. I found a Lorlin 12 pos switch that is "break before make" but mentions nothing about shorting. What does "shorting" mean in the context of switches?

Thanks

Mike
 
Mike-

You want the "make before break" style, which is shorting.

Has anybody used the Alpha Taiwan switches Mouser part # 10WW112

At $13.10 for ten it seems like the budget way to go. Any objections?

Do you think they will ever make a 24 pos gold platted MBB rotary for $5? :wink:

BH
 
Ok, here's the deal...

I called Newark and the sales lady told me that the part number was good, but it just wouldn't show up on their web site, so you have to call them and order it verbally. I told her when I ordered the part a month or so ago, it was on the web site and she was surprised. She said that most often "non-stocked" items would not show up, even when you click "Include Non-Catalog Items In Search Results". (I know you're wondering the same thing I am... What good is it then?)

You won't find the mfg. part # at Grayhill, either. You can only go to the series (71) and build the Grayhill part# from the options.
 
I hope I'm not etting off tpoic, but did anybody ever get around to trying the Sowter 2622 reissue?

For that matter, did anybody figure out a decent way to adapt the 2622's circular 6 pin layout to Fabio's board?

Shane
 
> switch that is "break before make" but mentions nothing about shorting.

"break before make" == "non-shorting"

"make before break" == "shorting"

> What does "shorting" mean in the context of switches?

When a switch is in one position or another, the connection is clear and unambiguous.

And if you never change the position while the system is live, it never matters shorting or non-shorting.

But often you want to switch while the system is on. And rotary switches take time to move between positions, can even get mis-set between positions. What happens when the switch is "BETWEEN" positions?

First consider the source selector on your hi-fi. You have inputs and switch positions for Phono, Tape, CD. When you go between them, do you want to hear TWO sources or NO sources? You may not care, but when you "hear two sources" you are also shorting the two sources together. And if one of them is also being fed to a recorder, you may not want that signal cross-contaminated with another signal, even for the milliSecond it takes to move the switch all the way to the next position.

Input selector switches are usually non-shorting.

Now consider a radio broadcast on-air console. The faders are switched resistors in a passive potentiometer network. When you are on the switch contact, you are connected to one tap on the resistor network. But when you are between switch contacts, you could be connected to NO resistor, no signal, gap in the broadcast.

In that case, you want to look at what would happen with a "shorting" switch. In the inbetween position, you could be connected to two resistors. Exact results depend on the network, but usually this gives you a signal similar to the adjacent positions, which is good. There may also be a slight change in the overall impedance, but typically too small to notice. So in this case you want a shorting switch.

Gain-set switches around mike amps come in many configurations. A special case is when the feedback resistor is switched. With a non-shorting switch, in the inbetween position, the amplfier has NO feedback, its gain goes to "infinity", the audio level goes to clipping, your monitor speakers cough their cones out. Switched feedback networks have to be very careful so this never happens. For this and other reasons, mike amps more often switch the shunt resistor: if it goes open, the gain goes low. This is mildly annoying, but not as bad as throwing speaker cones.
 
I hope I'm not etting off tpoic, but did anybody ever get around to trying the Sowter 2622 reissue?

I have them here - I'm just waiting for time to put the whole thing together. Soon, I hope. BTW, the Sowter has leads, not pins.
 
have them here - I'm just waiting for time to put the whole thing together. Soon, I hope. BTW, the Sowter has leads, not pins.

and that color code you see on my board is for Sowter API clone...
 
Flatpicker:

Are you going to have any extra Grayhill's left over that you'd want to sell? I just spoke to Newark and they said it would be about 35 business days to get that part.

I going to order a couple cheap Lorlins from Mouser for testing, but I'd really like to have that Grayhill for final assembly. Maybe another group order needs to get started... :?
 
Sorry, but I just got two and used them both (and I will eventually need one more). If I had extras I'd be glad to send them your way, tho.

If you don't have your pcb laid out for the Grayhills yet and don't mind 11 positions, you can get a CTS switch at Digi-Key that seems to be pretty good and much cheaper. I may start using that in future designs.
 
If you don't mind flying leads, CTS also makes 12 position shorting ones. (Don't know why DK doesn't sell the shorting, pcb mount type in 12 positions! :mad: )
 
I got 2 CTS switches myself, digikey partnumber CT2122-ND, 11pos shorting. Not a grayhill but very very nice compared to Lorlin... and it´s $8!

cheers!
Fabio
 
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