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step 3 - 5:

BTW body made from plywood

all put together and varnished

added inner framing made from particle board to hold the recessed driver
 

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another angle.


Even though Dave might not check this thread anymore - I gotta say thanks for finding the drivers and starting this thread!
Once I had the drivers this was one of the easiest projects and still very rewarding since these cubes do their job great!!
 

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Wow, very nice! I would also have liked the look of some wood grain, but I thought chipboard is better for speakers. (Even though it might not make a difference for such a small, stiff cabinet..)
 
These are all very nice but I worry about the sharp edges and corners.

I rounded mine off to minimize diffraction effects as the sound tries to go around the corners on such a small cabinet.

With a 6" or thereabouts (150mm) box the wavelength is 2kHz and 1kHz half wavelength, smack dab in the critical mid-range region.

Nice to see people still pursuing this project though.

best
DaveP
 
Hello guys
For first, thank you for this inspirational thread.

I want to build these cubes, but my "problem" is that, there are different dimensions of auratone all over the web (and I want them to be as accurate as possible)
For example, here it says that original dimensions are 16,5x16,5x16,5cm http://audio-database.com/AURATONE/speaker/5c-v-e.html
Your dimensions are 16,5x16,5x14cm  using 1,3cm wood
And here is another DIY plan that says 16,5x16,5x12,6cm  using 0,9cm wood http://www.artandtechnology.com.au/audio/auraclone-cabinet-plans.pdf

So, why yours are about 1,5cm shorter than originals? Is there corner bracing in original auratones?
Also I think that originals had wool only at the back :)
 
If anyone needs help on the enclosure or box side of things, here is my design :)

The panels fit together to leave space for quadrant round - this helps minimize baffle diffraction.

I havn't built my Davetones yet, but I have built studio monitors using the same principle.

It's all glued together with guerrilla glue and braced internally with small bits of wood. Seal with caulk and use sticky foam on the lining of the back plate to stop any air escaping.

Comes to about 2.8 Litres inside without taking into consideration the space the driver will take up. Fill with speaker insulation to increase the effective volume. You can scale down if you want a slightly smaller internal volume.

I'm using 3/4" Birch Ply as I have some spare from my last speaker build.

Thanks,
Matt.

Click the image below to view the whole album.


 
Does anyone know if there is an "online laser cut" place that will do materials appropriate for this box?  How thin can I go?

I would love to build one, don't mind glueing,  but don't want to mess with cutting and would like to label it with laser (1/0, cut for internal PSU, DIYoyotone... etc)
 
http://www.ponoko.com/make-and-sell/materials/ponoko-united-states?kind=Wood&mode=materials

Only up to a 1/4" though.
 
Thanks, I inquired with emachineshop.  I just thought it was a cute project and if we could get a file to have the parts cut, it would make it easier to pop these out.  i will let you know and post files if I manage it.

update:  I contacted them and the reply said "We do not work in any wood products."
 
I'm a little late to the party, but thought I would contribute my auratone diy results so far.

I ended up using  Visaton FR 12 drivers, which I'm very happy with.
The outer box dimensions are slightly larger at 7" x 7" x 6.5".
I also used 4 pieces of 3/4" pine for bracing as suggested by others here.

I thought the cuts were pretty accurate, but when gluing together I noticed they were a little off.
It doesn't bother me too much..
I may eventually  sand & paint it or get some wood vinyl covering to improve the aesthetics.

 

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I used some extra kwik seal caulk I had laying around  to  seal inside corners.
It got a little messy in spots as I did it after the box was glued together.
 

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