Aviom personal mixer repair

[Whoops]

I am looking for a replacement 1/4 stereo Jack

Thanks everyone for the shared sources in this thread, after 12 years of use some of the mixers in a studio I use to work are showing switch, encoders and jack problems.

Does anyone know a source for the 1/4 stereo Headphone Jack?

it seems similar to a lot of low profile jacks that are used in a lot of gear but I never seen a source for those type of pcb jacks

thanks

 

[manyhats]

I've found so much helpful information within this forum that I felt compelled to contribute something.

I believe that I have discovered the actual manufacturer of the highly sought after Aviom 1/4 inch headphone jacks. Looks like the P/N is SJ-6327. Found here:
www.xlrjack.com/6.35 Phone Jack/microphonesocketSJ6377.html

There's a dimensioned drawing and photos available at the site for comparison.

Haven't yet found a North American reseller nor anywhere to buy quantities less than 1000, but I'll keep looking. At least this is a start.

 

[Whoops]

Hi thanks for the link.

It would be great to be able to get those jacks from Farnell or Mouser in smaller quantities.

I've found what might be a source for smaller quantities or even unit it's from Small Bear Electronics, a nice store for guitar pedal builders.
If this is the right jack or not it still needs to be confirmed, but it looks the same.

check here:
http://www.smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/stereo-low-profile-pc-mount/

Unfortunately I'm in Europe so I still need to find a source in EU because the custom fees from the US are quite high at the moment

 

[grant]

Here are some more Aviom parts:

Bass/Treble/Master potentiometer:
BI TECHNOLOGIES / TT ELECTRONICS
P140KH1-F25AR20K

I haven't found a source for these but this is what I believe Aviom used.

---------

The LEDs surrounding the channels 1-16 tact switches for an A-16ii are:
LED, YELLOW, CLEAR, T1, TH B    KINGBRIGHT      WP132XYT
LED, RED, CLEAR, T1, TH B            KINGBRIGHT      WP132XIT

Grant

 

[vwvanfan]

Hi everybody

Thank you so much for this thread! The information in it allowed me to buy 36 broken A16ii's, import them to the UK, and begin fixing them up. I'd never have dreamt of owning even 5 or 6 of the budget alternatives for the price I paid for these. Hoping to make at least 20 working ones out of them, with the rest repaired if I can or broken up as spares to support the others.

In an attempt to repay my thanks, how about some 3d printable buttons?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5729375
I printed mine in PETG, 100% infil. They click on a little firmer than the originals. They're not identical to look at (thought it best to stick to a flat button top rather than the slight curve on the originals). If you print a full set out though then they look pretty smart alongside each other.
You'll need some 3mm acrylic rod or fibre optic to insert in the holes of the illuminated ones. Bit of super glue and you're sorted.

Hope they're of use to someone, and thanks once again.

 

[Whoops]

Hoping to make at least 20 working ones out of them, with the rest repaired if I can or broken up as spares to support the others.

Do you also have the Brain/Distribution unit?

Good luck to the repair

 

[vwvanfan]

Got 4 of the 8 way distributors, plus the mic input unit.

Have also nearly finished a pair of knob caps - one with a line (will require a dual filament printer) and one without. Just got a couple more tweaks to make to the design, then will share the link here. Hoping to print a full knob as well but that may take a little more time.

 

[dontfeedmyduck]

Similarly, very thankful to everyone for the help with spare parts!

I believe someone was asking about the PoE pinout. I've spent some time this evening probing the circuit board with a multimeter, and got my A-16IIs working with a passive PoE injector. Ground is on pins 4 & 5 and +ve is on pins 7 & 8. This particular PoE injector was set up with the opposite polarity (so watch out for that!) but I just made a new cat5 cable which crosses over the two sets of pins so the polarity is correct again, and it works like a charm.

It's nearly impossible to get hold of those distributor units these days here in the UK, without paying an extortionate amount for shipping from the US, but I'm hoping I can passively split the signal myself, so I can just have one big power supply in my control room and save having loads of wall warts around the place. I'm expecting not, but does anyone happen to have any experience with this kind of passive splitting? I'm wondering if an old-school ethernet hub (not switch) would do the trick haha.