B9A tube right angle mounts

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
COOL!!! Perhaps you are now on your way to 3D-printing your own versions of the ETTINGER "Threaded Mounting Cubes"!!!

View attachment 141861

And.....in order to help you get started on your way, here is a "10mm M3 Threaded Cube Standoff" as an -- STL -- file:
snip
Any comments? Ideas?? Suggestions???

Thank you very much for doing that. I have no idea if threads work in 3D printed plastic parts. I will print one of yours and let you know. I will try making one in PLA and one in PETG (which is apparently stronger than PLA).

I was wondering if a viable alternative would be to have a plain hole as you suggest but add a hexagonal cavity the shape and depth of an M3 nut on the four faces? I have seen this on the 3 DIN 41612 connectors I use to plug the PCB into the mixer backplane PCB.

Cheers

Ian
 
snip



Thank you very much for doing that. I have no idea if threads work in 3D printed plastic parts. I will print one of yours and let you know. I will try making one in PLA and one in PETG (which is apparently stronger than PLA).

I was wondering if a viable alternative would be to have a plain hole as you suggest but add a hexagonal cavity the shape and depth of an M3 nut on the four faces? I have seen this on the 3 DIN 41612 connectors I use to plug the PCB into the mixer backplane PCB.

Cheers

Ian
[add a hexagonal cavity the shape and depth of an M3 nut on the four faces?] -- Like this???.....

1734866721569.png

[on the four faces?] -- Aren't there -- SIX -- faces? That's what I count. Or, are there two-faces that don't get the hex's?

>> I certainly realize that this is all purely experimental in nature, but.....at least based upon the M3 hex-nut that I used for obtaining my dimensions, I had to enlarge the cube to -- 12mm -- due to the amount of material eaten away by the depth of the nut. In other words, should this become a "reality" for actual use, you would need to provide me with the actual dimensions of the cube itself, along with a datasheet of your metric hardware, so I could create an accurate 3D CAD-model based upon the "real" parts that you would be using. Meaning.....maybe your UK metric hardware is possibly smaller than my US metric hardware (outside dimensions, of course). I don't know.

1734867356545.png
1734867442044.png

Here's the datasheet information that I used to create the -- hex-extrusions -- in this 12mm M3 Mounting Block:

1734867624448.png

In order to allow some tolerance for easy insertion of the hex=nut, I added 0.020" (0.508mm) to both the width (now: 6.5mm) and the depth/height (now: 3.3mm). Of course, additional latitudes will also probably need to be taken into account due to the nature of the 3D-printing process and for the specific type(s) of material used. In other words.....>> GAME ON!!! <<

1734868318500.png
1734868588327.png

Now what???.....

/
 

Attachments

  • 10mm M3 Threaded Cube Standoff - Version-3 - RENAME 2 STL.PDF
    59.8 KB
That will work fine for plain text .stl files but probably not for binary ones.

Cheers

Ian
[but probably not for binary ones] -- To the actual files, they themselves don't much care what their extensions are called, as long as you don't try to import them and/or use them with the new extension names. I frequently will rename my binary-coded schematic and PCB-design files from their original program filename extensions (DSN for schematics and MAX for PCBs) and then rename them to "PDF" or something for security reasons. From there, I even ZIP everything up and then rename the ZIP file to "PDF". So, if someone is snooping around and copies my files and tries to either: A) Open them up as a PDF file, they'll get an error message stating that the file is corrupt, incompatible, unrecognized or something nasty. B) The same goes for the ZIP file as a PDF file. They can't unZIP the ZIP-file as long as its named as being a PDF file!!! They would have to KNOW that the PDF file is actually a ZIP-file and then rename it back to being a ZIP-file!!!

/
 
I have no idea if threads work in 3D printed plastic parts.
They don't realy, for small sizes. As you could see, dimensional tolerance is close to thread size, so you end up with either too large outer diameter or threads walking into each other.
I will print one of yours and let you know. I will try making one in PLA and one in PETG (which is apparently stronger than PLA).
PETG is definitely stronger that PLA, and clearly more heat resistant.
In addition PLA is supposed to self degrade (after all it's a biodegradable material) but I don't know what time scale it implies. I've never seen it properly documented..
I was wondering if a viable alternative would be to have a plain hole as you suggest but add a hexagonal cavity the shape and depth of an M3 nut on the four faces?
I've done that when I designed brackets for affixing front panels to Eurocards.
See attached file.
 

Attachments

  • board support euro ecrou 2.txt
    184.6 KB
Here's the datasheet information that I used to create the -- hex-extrusions -- in this 12mm M3 Mounting Block:

View attachment 141871
This is a M3.5. M3 is 5mm face to face.
M3.5 is not a common size, you don't find them in hardware stores.
In order to allow some tolerance for easy insertion of the hex=nut, I added 0.020" (0.508mm) to both the width (now: 6.5mm) and the depth/height (now: 3.3mm).
In the part that I joined in post #166, I deliberately chose to make sizes as exact as possible, so the nuts are inserted with some force and stay there (check the geometry).
 
@MidnightArrakis you are, of course absolutely correct that there are 6 faces. I was thinking in terms of a particular application which only needs four.

Creating a cavity on all 6 faces does lose a lot of material. For absolute generality you need all six but you can never use more than three so it might make sense to have application specific ones with just one per hole.

Talking of application specific cubes, one I am particularly interested in is the one @abbey road d enfer posted above. This looks like a replica of the expensive die cast ones judging from your picture. One thing I do want to do is create a version of this that incorporates both top and bottom front panel mountings joined together by a thin piece 2.54mm thick that acts as a spacer between the PCB and the front panel.

https://www.srs-products.co.uk/eurorack-versirak-data-sheets/

If you look on page 19 of the above URL, at the top where is says Panel Kits you can see the pice I am interested in.

Cheers

Ian
 

Latest posts

Back
Top