B9A tube right angle mounts

[ruffrecords]

I would think a version with heat-inserted threaded brass inserts would work, certainly not with the structural integrity of all-metal construction.

I agree. The only possibility I can see at the moment are pockets for the nuts. I have seen an example of this somewhere. I need to find it again to see if it could work.

Cheers

Ian

 

[shaggy]

I just realised I have made a serious mistake. As soon as you fit one screw and nut it blocks the way for the other two screws. The cube only works if the holes are threaded! Doh!

Back to the drawing board.

Cheers

Ian

I was wondering when one of you blokes were going to notice that! 8>)

 

[abbey road d enfer]

The problem with pockets is that it doesn't leave much meat if staying with 10mm size.

Anyway, the issue is similar with threaded inserts, tehy are 5mm long, which suggests a 13mm cube.

 

[ruffrecords]

@abbey road d enfer I agree it looks like a 10mm plastic cube is not going to happen.

However, I wonder of a pocket might work for a replacement of the standard Ettinger blocks I currently use to attach Eurocard PCs to their front panels:

https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/22766.pdf

The M3 thread could be replaced by a plain hole and use an external nut but the M2.5 looks to have about 4.2mm of meat to play with and the nut should be only 2mm thick so we could have over 2mm of meat. Would it be easier/better to use a square nut?

I just looked at M2.5 nut dimensions and basically they are 5mm wide so this is another non-starter.

Cheers

Ian

 

[abbey road d enfer]

I don't see how you could make it work.
I believe the only option is to have non-coincident axis, for a part similar to the Scroff PCB bracket.

 

[shaggy]

You'd be better off using thread-forming screws (aka self-tappers) in correct-size holes. A central hole in one face, two in the adjacent face to straddle the first. If hole/screw were sized correctly, the screws would actually reinforce the part.