Yeah - you’re right - I meant the 705 (as I don’t know if the 707 is rigid)OK, I guess .....but that sounds like 705 from the spec sheets I found/posted:
704: 4.2 pcf (67 kg/m3)
705: 6.0 pcf (96 kg/m3)
707: 7.0 pcf (112 kg/m3)
Bri
Yeah - you’re right - I meant the 705 (as I don’t know if the 707 is rigid)OK, I guess .....but that sounds like 705 from the spec sheets I found/posted:
704: 4.2 pcf (67 kg/m3)
705: 6.0 pcf (96 kg/m3)
707: 7.0 pcf (112 kg/m3)
Bri
You mean you got your rockwool airtight?All my rockwool is wrapped in celofane/ plastic film so no fibres will get airborne and won’t smell.
The higher the number, the more rigid....and it's tough for me to even find anyone here in the USA who has anything in stock besides 703. shrug...Yeah - you’re right - I meant the 705 (as I don’t know if the 707 is rigid)
The only problem with cello-wrapping is it reduces the airflow and thus the damping effectiveness through the spun fibre by having a single skin - especially if it’s tight. The beauty of the board is that all the fibres are resin bonded and don’t shed but allow air passage which interacts with the fibres turning sound energy into heat (except for a little shedding at cut edges which is why I glue them). Unfortunately blanket collapses in a vertical setting, even when it’s wired in place or glued - even if compressed. Good for ceilings though as it lies flat. I’ve been designing and building studios since 1977 and have seen the results of time on acoustic materials - (also most cellophane will break down in 3 to 4 years - especially the newer biodegradable stuff). I had to do some alterations to a studio year before last and the original builder had used Rockwool blanket inside the walls - it had been wired and glued to one surface but due to constant vibration causing it to collapse, the top 1/4 of each wall chamber was empty.All my rockwool is wrapped in celofane/ plastic film so no fibres will get airborne and won’t smell.
Skinning with something like plastic will kill the top and high mid absorption - as you go down in frequency it has less detrimental effect. It can also buzz if loose or tight. Proper broadband absorption relies on the material used being installed as supplied - minus the wrapper.You mean you got your rockwool airtight?
My understanding is that pourous absorbers need the pourous material to NOT be in an airtight container. That is why it is often said that you must be able to breath through the fabric you choose as cover.
But maybe i'm mistaken.
Thomas
Ok - wasn’t sure from the spec sheet about that.The higher the number, the more rigid....and it's tough for me to even find anyone here in the USA who has anything in stock besides 703. shrug...
Bri
True on LF but as I mentioned above you lose the benefit of all the high absorption. Ok for bass traps but for room levelling and getting rid of standing waves at higher frequencies for drums or for control room monitoring you should really have the fibre open - behind breatheable cloth I’ve found the best option.Well Jesco said to wrap them in plastic bags and the very thin plastic film is much thinner and he said it would have little to no effect on LF.
If you have at least one opposing surface covered the other can be bare to stop standing waves, same with corners diagonally opposite - so you can stagger your panels - Lo,Hi,Lo, Hi left side Hi, Lo, Hi, Lo right side for example - same front rear - this is for the drum room.I got a question, would it be better to have all 12 panels at listening height?
For the corners I’m stacking two panels but everywhere else it would seem better to have them all at listening height?
The higher the density the more absorption at LF - you can choose by the thickness of the used panel ie. if not enough absorption add another thickness of fibre board.Also Jesco said to not go too dense with the fibre that’s why I’ve gone for 30kg m3 as he recommends on his course.
When I started in the late ‘70s there was only low density Rockwool, fibreglass or wool insulation and also lead vinyl (now it’s barium). Wall cavities had the Rockwool bagged in felt or cotton if you were smart so the glass or rock fibres didn’t get into mics, speakers and audio sockets or people’s eyes and lungs. Then particle board and plasterboard with timber framing (no metal framing then) for walls and ceilings. Floating floors or drum booth floors were sometimes concrete slabs poured on polystyrene with spaced rubber blocks.Indeed the price goes through the roof for "high end" acoustic products. The clever acoustic designers from decades ago figured out stock Owens products....intended for mundane insulation applications...also had useful properties to do acoustical control. The earliest Owens spec sheets were all about thermal properties. Later data sheets began to mention acoustic control.
In those decades ago, acoustic designers weren't always worried about recording studio acoustics, they had huge enclosed concrete sports buildings that has a RT-60 of 245 years (G!) without some sort of absorption on the walls/ceilings. Fortunately they discovered available, off-the shelf "insulation" products to tame those LARGE building acoustics. Not fancy-dancy $1000 per square inch scams (containing special rare earth crystals!) and the like being sold to the audiophools these days!
Bri
Do you know what they’re tuned to? If not, use the calculator above if they’re slats or the one below if they’re round holes- but you need to know the internal depth and also hole diameter, hole panel thickness:A friend has offered me 3 x 8x4’ Helmholtz panels which could work for the drum room?
This isn’t correct, I’ve checked and they are wide band absorbers with feet on them and they stand long ways!!A friend has offered me 3 x 8x4’ Helmholtz panels which could work for the drum room?
Do you happen to have a photo of what your space couplers look like?The drum room is more about your personal prefs. I like to make the ceiling non reflective so overhead mics don’t get reflections from ceiling. Wall treatment is totally subjective. Placement of the kit in the room is critical, too. I tend to put the stool near a wall or corner to get the most low-freq help from the boundaries. I also like space couplers in small drum rooms. I’ve been playing with making space DIY couplers With cut PVC pipes. The dimensions are not critical. I use 3” pipe and cut 3” lengths and glue them together and paint the whole thing.
Then they probably aren’t tuned Helmholtz absorber, whic, by sedition, are not broadband.This isn’t correct, I’ve checked and they are wide band absorbers with feet on them and they stand long ways!!
True. At some point dense insulation becomes reflective for LF. You light Roxul is good to 8” or a bit more, but after that, batts are more useful.Also Jesco said to not go too dense with the fibre that’s why I’ve gone for 30kg m3 as he recommends on his course.
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