This is my rendering of the direct input box, FYI. I used a mounting method that I want to share with you.
The PCB fits more or less into a Hammond 1590 N1. I normally use 125B, but those were out of stock and the Hammond is almost exactly the same size.
I say "more or less", because although the PCB is small enough, the jacks are in the way.
I have made a mistake when drilling the holes, so don´t make the same mistake.
Drill the holes for the jacks as far to the rim (upper side when viewing from the bottom) as the connections allow for. This way the PCB can go a little further towards the jacks, and the XLR can be mounted from the inside.
Although this had been my plan in order to be able to mount all connectors from the inside, the jacks got in my way and everything had to move slightly towards the XLR, which had to be mounted from the outside. No big deal.
Note that the jacks may compete with the Molex connectors. I soldered the wires directly.
My preferred mounting is soldering nails, but the spacing of the pads is too small for using them (they shorted on their rims...). There is no real need for using exotic Molex connectors. All the more so, because all other parts are deliberately chosen to be easy to get.
I mounted the PCB onto a helper plastic plate to avoid spoiling the case with ugly mounting screws.
I used 5mm hex metal spacers with an M3 thread, mounted with a recessed screw through the plastic board. The PCB plugs into the protruding screws. The plate can be glued to the bottom with double sided tape, while the PCB can be removed if necessary.
This is quite comfortable and elegant, but raises the PCB somewhat, which fuels the space war again.
So again, it fits "almost". If somebody did their own PCB (I did not care once I realized that it fits a 125B) then this could be made smaller without any problem.
Lacking access to the more streamlined cases I made in the past, I used direct case etching.
This is always a lot of work, and the outcome is not always predictable, but I am satisfied.
Apart from that, etched cases look very professional for a hand-made unit and are (for a generic stomp box) very well readable under subdued lighting conditions. Each specimen thus becomes a peace of art, too. The shiny surface becomes dull from touch quickly, this is normal for aluminium, but it is astonishingly durable otherwise. Please forgive my amateur photography. Them shiny things are very unforgiving.
I ordered the Lundahl transformer, although I probably would not hear a difference to the other ones recommended. It sounds and works flawless upon recording, as expected.
I used the resistor values I could get from my dealer. They had a limited assortment in 0.1% resistors and I had to combine 3 values. The absolute value is irrelevant. I settled for the best match, but the 0.1% were perfectly right from the start.
Thanks Bo for the great work.
Edit: I forgot the input jack grounding when unplugged. Depicted as a red line in the guts shot.
