Bo Hansen DI layout

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Thanks for the suggestions, I'll get an order in on Monday and report back once it's installed and tested.

As for the switch, with the SPDT I get pops when switching it. For anyone following along, would a 'make before break' / non-shorting switch be the right type of switch function in hopes of minimizing pops? And if so, is a MBB denoted as On-On or On-(On)?
"Sealed" is better quality?
I'm not a penny pincher, I'd rather spend more to get something that is more rugged and robust / lasts longer than I do... so if there are any 'switch aficionados' who care to recommend a specific small footprint switch, please chime in. Otherwise, I will roll the dice come Monday morning.
[is a MBB denoted as On-On or On-(On)] -- Technically.....both switch types could be as MBB, but -- (On) -- does specifically designate a "momentary" contact type.

Should you browse around on Digi-Key and Mouser in their switch parameter listings, you will even see switches shown as being -- (On) / (On) -- types, which are "momentary contact" in both directions.

---------MOUSER--------------------DIGI-KEY-------

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Klem,

You can rarely get everything 100% perfect when it comes to add-on features afterwards, especially on designs that are not intended for this.

You have to bear in mind that this switch sits directly on the high-resistance inputs with high sensitivity if you have a lot of gain turned up, and in this case it probably won't help with a "make before brake" function in this case, and besides, I don't think that is so easy to get hold of this function regarding toggle switches.

So instead buy a normal "DPDT" toggle switch of slightly better quality.
The two types we talked about, i.e. SPDT and DPDT are by far the most common and are very easy to get hold of in different qualities and sizes.

It is not necessary to change the switch when you have high gain on your preamp or mixer.
It is not uncommon for buttons to pop, for example on expensive condenser microphones, when you change the switches while using normal gain.
So you should probably be happy with this.

PS! the pop might be better now with these latest changes, or worse, you never know until afterwards.

--Bo
 
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The revised changes appear to have significantly quieted the buzzing, to the point that the cheap M-Audio pres appear to be the main source of any noise on the XLRs! Amp out is much quieter as well. Can't test 2 simultaneous amp outs (of Input 1) ATM as I only have 1 amp on hand. I will eventually test it every way possible with much higher-end pres and A/D. But for these initial tests, I used a cheap USB-C M-Audio pre/converter for ease of portability and quick testing.

Since the wiring in earlier pics is hard to see clearly even with my outlining/labeling the wiring in photoshop, I figured it would be helpful if I provided a clear, single diagram that summarizes the changes needed to implement this parallel vs dual 2 channel configuration. Let me know if I missed anything and I'll update it.

Only time will tell how well this may perform with the variety of guitar/pedal impedances this circuit may encounter in 'real-world' scenarios (e.g., another member had issues with fuzz pedals). But even if this works for only some scenarios, it has the potential to be a great problem solver especially for doing multi-track recordings of live performances. Combining a splitter, both as 2 transformer isolated outputs for sends to recording feed and FOH, as well as (hopefully) multiple amp drivers to boot. Thank you (once again) Bo for your assistance in helping this idea become an option for members here.


BO DI Parallel wiring diagram.jpg
 
Only time will tell how well this may perform with the variety of guitar/pedal impedances this circuit may encounter in 'real-world' scenarios (e.g., another member had issues with fuzz pedals).


View attachment 129237

Problems with fuzz pedals are due to a specific type of fuzz circuit - fuzzface and derivatives - depending on a high impedance source. Since all outputs from this DI are low impedance the fuzz may not sound so great. This applies to any low impedance source. You can add impedance in series to help with this.
 
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