[BUILD] 1176 Rev F/G - new board, new transformer!

[Echo North]

Sorry R55, I was typing on my cell phone with big thumbs.  Fixed!

Mike

 

[edanderson]

mike,

sorry for the confusing extra info in my last post -- i forgot that rev F is when the meter circuit was simplified and there is one less trimmer (no r44).

because the circuit changes, the component numbers change also, but the pot you're talking about (the one on the front panels in the original urei units) is the zero adjust or "0 set" as it is labelled on the urei schematics.  in earlier revs it was r71 and on the rev F it is r55.

looking at the overlay for the rev F PCB, it seems mako did not bring out the connections for r55 to extra pads (which would be 12, 13, and 14).  you can connect your wires from the pads for the trimmer to a front panel pot and omit the trimmer.

ed

 

[Songguy]

Phew! Now that we have established its r55 and that I'm not going completely crazy. How would I go about wiring the 2k front panel 0 adjust pot to R55. I see a square pad and 3 round pads at r55. How do I orient the pot lugs to these pads as they are not numbered.

Chris

 

[Songguy]

Using the the r55 screw icon as reference point. Can someone tell me how to wire the 2k pot ?

Anyone?

 

[Echo North]

Have a look at how the trimmer works.  There are two fixed terminals and a wiper that moves with the turn of the screw.  Your pot is the same thing, only in a different package.  Usually the wipers are the middle pin/lug.  Worst case you get the fixed pins reversed and the screw and needle move in opposite directions.  You could either call it "character" or unsolder and swap the fixed terminals to get them moving in the same direction.

Mike

 

[BigBellC]

Why do we use FC/FM? I thought the NHG were the electrolytics for audio path par excellence ?! Or are the FC/FM better now?

General consensus: NHG for powersupply, filtering and decoupling, FC/FM for audiopath.

Hey Guys!

okay, that's good to know  8) Another advantage of the FC/FM is the longer lifetime too I've seen...

Why do we use FC/FM? I thought the NHG were the electrolytics for audio path par excellence ?! Or are the FC/FM better now?

The Mouser carts on my site are pretty organic.  Mouser routinely runs out of the electrolytic and film caps so I'm always looking for a suitable "in stock" cap.  This is also the reason you may see some WIMA's rated for 100V rather then 60V in the cart.

Yes...the Wima's are very often out of stock...Overrating should't be a problem if there is enough space on the board I think. They are more expensive, but okay...With the Panasonics I didn't have problems yet. I hope they will have enough parts for my order

Greets!

 

[Songguy]

Got an output tranformer wiring question for the hairball B11148.

On the rev. F board there are pads that indicate where the primaries go. Ie brown, red, orange, yellow.

Mnats rev. D wire guide uses a different output xfer which has different lead colors from the B11148. http://mnats.net/1176_reva-d_hairball_wiring_meter_circuit.html

I need some clarity on what to do with the secondaries ie. Green, blue, violet, grey. Which 2 colors tie into  which xlr out pins/ratio board? And what should be done with the remaining 2 wires?


I am looking at the HB EA-11148 Tech info guide but would like to hear from the pros before I move ahead.

Almost done. When it's up and running I'll post some pics of the wiring for other noobs to refer to. I have used the same colored wires as in the mnats pictorial guide. This should be helpful to others.

Thanks folks,
Chris

 

[Songguy]

Ok, after further review of the schematics it seems that green and violet connect together as does blue and grey. But which pair go to xlr pin 2 and 3?

http://mnats.net/files/1176REVFG_SCHEMATIC.pdf

Anyone? Please.

Ps still researching this.

 

[Biasrocks]

According to the schematic it looks like green + violate & blue + grey for your output. red + yellow & orange (signal) + brown (ground) to the board. Not sure about the polarity of the output, but my guess is that green + violate is hot.

Mark

 

[Songguy]

According to the schematic it looks like green + violate & blue + grey for your output. red + yellow & orange (signal) + brown (ground) to the board. Not sure about the polarity of the output, but my guess is that green + violate is hot.

Mark

Hi mark,
Will this make your guess more certain. It's been a very long time since I really delved into schematics. I really appreciate your help.

http://hairballaudio.com/docs/B11148/b11148.pdf

 

[Biasrocks]

It looks like the color codes on the reproduction conform to the original transformer and schematic, so give it a try you should be fine.

Mark

 

[buildafriend]

Has anyone in the US ordered these boards before? If yes, how long did you wait for them to arrive?

 

[Songguy]

I'm in NY and it took forever via USPS  ground parcel. in fact, at the 14 day point I contacted hairball and they sent me another priority mail and did not charge me for the fast shipping. USPS messed up. should have taken only 5 days.  Mike at hairball saved the day. Bottom line it depends where you are located.
Great company that HB.

 

[Echo North]

I'm in NY and it took forever via USPS  ground parcel. in fact, at the 14 day point I contacted hairball and they sent me another priority mail and did not charge me for the fast shipping. USPS messed up. should have taken only 5 days.  Mike at hairball saved the day. Bottom line it depends where you are located.
Great company that HB.

@Songguy
Thanks!

@buildafriend
If by "boards" you mean the MNATs PCBs, they come 1st class from Australia which can vary a fair bit.  I've been lucky, I usually get stuff from MNATs in about 2 weeks. My experience in receiving international mail is that 2-4 weeks is normal.

Mike

 

[Songguy]

Oops sorry. I think I was looking or an opportunity to mention my positive experience with Hairball.

Regarding the boards. Got em in NY in about 10 days...and well before USPS got their sh*t together.

My pleasure mike.  customer service above and beyond the average deserves a big mention!

 

[Songguy]

help.
i'm still stuck on trimmer pot lead placements. I'm looking at the stuffed board on page 1.

The placement of the trimmer pots, based on the screw icon on the board are placed in opposite directions.

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=33834.0

i have a attached a pic of the leads and pads in question. i'm just not confident as which goes where.

 

[Echo North]

Just pop it in.

The worst case scenario is that the you have to turn the trimmer in the opposite direction.  This is where a little trial and error comes in.

Mike

 

[Songguy]

Mike, when you say" turn the trimmer". Do you mean the screw or take the trimmer pot out of the pcb and try it the other way.

 

[Echo North]

Both.

You have a few options.

1) Examine the schematic and PCB to see which way it should be oriented.
2) Put it in.  If it's backwards you'll know because it will be counter intuitive.  For example with the zero adjust you'd expect that when you turn the screw clockwise, the needle will move up the VU scale.  You can just leave the trimmer like that and know in the future you need to turn the screw in the opposite way you expect.
3)  or you can desolder it and flip it 180 degrees and it will turn the way you expect.

Mike

BTW I've never built an F so I don't know off hand how the Bourns trimmers go in.  If I knew I would tell you

 

[Songguy]

They are  vishay