[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

[alchemystudio]

Hello to all,

I build my 1176 rev G. (thank you to hairball and mnats!!!)
turned on and it was not burnt! Yeah! It remains to see if it works and calibrate ...

I appeal to your knowledge:
1 - why I still have some elements? (the pcb is full)

2 - is that the polarity of the XLR output is right? (according to my sources, the connection is different between the usa and europe??) I live in europe ... (Switzerland)

3 - I can remove the mass here???

Thank you very much to those who want to give a little help to a beginner.
This is a google translation. sorry for my bad english!

 

[COLLEYK2]

Thanks Hairball!..so here is where I'm at... I was able to zero the meter using the tracking adjust and get -10 db of GR in +4 by turning the attack pot on and then have the meter return to 0 when off.

I then set the Meter to GR and the meter reads at 0. I can adjust the tracking adjust and achieve a -10 reading on the meter with the attack pot on. Then when I turn it off again, the meter pegs past +3. I re-adjust it to zero using R71. But then when I turn the attack back on the meter is back around -20 and I can't get it to move by turning the track adjust trimmer anymore. It seems like i'm out of adjustment. I think I'm  close to having this fully calibrated. What am I doing wrong?

 

[mnats]

Thanks Hairball!..so here is where I'm at... I was able to zero the meter using the tracking adjust and get -10 db of GR in +4 by turning the attack pot on and then have the meter return to 0 when off.

I then set the Meter to GR and the meter reads at 0. I can adjust the tracking adjust and achieve a -10 reading on the meter with the attack pot on. Then when I turn it off again, the meter pegs past +3. I re-adjust it to zero using R71. But then when I turn the attack back on the meter is back around -20 and I can't get it to move by turning the track adjust trimmer anymore. It seems like i'm out of adjustment. I think I'm  close to having this fully calibrated. What am I doing wrong?

Did you replace the pot with a 5k as mentioned in your earlier post?

 

[COLLEYK2]

I have not replaced R71 with a 5k yet. Still the 2k. Do think I should give a 5k Pot a try?

 

[Sillen]

If anyone could just help me quick here
The solder pad of wire 3 on the Ratio board for the switch bank, where does it go? ( That solder pad broke, so I need to wire it directly to where it was supposed to go)

 

[mnats]

If anyone could just help me quick here
The solder pad of wire 3 on the Ratio board for the switch bank, where does it go? ( That solder pad broke, so I need to wire it directly to where it was supposed to go)

It would speed things up if you would post whether you're using a rotary or push button ratio board. But even faster would be to look at the copper layer of the respective board or the schematic which have been linked multiple times IIRC.

 

[dbonin]

Very nice freq response from my latest REV D - this was generated using the sweep 'chirp' mode of TRUE RTA - unfortunately this was driven from the line outs of my old firebox interface - not the best impedance match for the unit.  True RTA was calibrated and corrected for the fireboxes own freq response before the test.  Each line is a ratio setting -  top being 20:1, down to 4:1 on the bottom.

By messing with the input and output I could easily obtain an almost  perfectly flat response and also a much more uneven response across the spectrum when driven hard - all part of the beauty of the 1176!

 

[Sillen]

If anyone could just help me quick here
The solder pad of wire 3 on the Ratio board for the switch bank, where does it go? ( That solder pad broke, so I need to wire it directly to where it was supposed to go)

It would speed things up if you would post whether you're using a rotary or push button ratio board. But even faster would be to look at the copper layer of the respective board or the schematic which have been linked multiple times IIRC.

It's the pushbutton ratio board..

 

[COLLEYK2]

Just an update... I have gotten my Hairball Audio 1176 Fully calibrated and working great.  After replacing R71 with a 5k pot and still not getting step three of the calibration done I decided to go back to the original 2k pot and start over again with step 1. I think where I was going wrong was in Step 2.  I was moving the  jumper taking the null adjust trimmer out of circuit incorrectly. I redid it letting it just hang off of one pin and then was able to fulfill step three satisfactorily.  The unit sounds great! Thanks!

 

[Echo North]

If anyone could just help me quick here
The solder pad of wire 3 on the Ratio board for the switch bank, where does it go? ( That solder pad broke, so I need to wire it directly to where it was supposed to go)

Right side of R4 is probably easiest.

 

[jplebre]

what changed on your 2013 v2 version of the boards?

 

[mnats]

what changed on your 2013 v2 version of the boards?

If the question is directed to me the answer is at the bottom of my Rev D page.

 

[Echo North]

what changed on your 2013 v2 version of the boards?

If it's directed at me, I only changed the labeling I believe.

 

[germoju]

Hi !

I finished my dual Rev D and before powering up... I test continuity with ground and one of my C-3837-1 Rev A/D Input Transformer is not connected to ground. I believed it was my solder, so I unsolder it and tested the pin/ground.... the little metal wire connected to chassis is not connected to the pin...

what do you think ?

 

[dbonin]

Hi !

I finished my dual Rev D and before powering up... I test continuity with ground and one of my C-3837-1 Rev A/D Input Transformer is not connected to ground. I believed it was my solder, so I unsolder it and tested the pin/ground.... the little metal wire connected to chassis is not connected to the pin...

what do you think ?

Strange - the metal case on the altran transformer should be grounded and the metal wire soldered to the metal housing should be connecting it to the ground pin.  Be careful with the hairball transformer mount PCB as the pads can lift easily if you have to re-flow solder - I fixed a rev D for a friend that had that as the cause of a "no audio" issue!

 

[dbonin]

I'm about to dive deep into this issue I'm trouble shooting for a friend's 1176...
Once I got the audio flowing...  I calibrated the unit with no problems what so ever.
So I ran my standard chirp test with TRUErta and changed NOTHING but the ratio buttons on the front of the unit.
I start with 20 and capture the response for each ratio down to 4.

Typical ratio responses USUALLY so 20:1 as the top data line, down to 4:1 on the bottom.  But not this one...

The Rev A that I'm checking shows both ratio 8 and 4 on the exact same curve ABOVE the 20:1 ratio. 
Anyone seen this before?  Visually the ratio resistors look correct.  I also checked the GR section of the board and all resistors are correct.
Any guesses or suggestions on places to start poking?

it's interesting that the 20 and 12 curves look like compressed signals typical of these units while the 8 and 4 ratios look like nice, flat BYPASS responses - what's up with that! 
Makes me wonder if this is another soldering issue on this unit - I've had to fix several cold solder joints to get it working to this point...

 

[jplebre]

Hi it was directed to Mike
he posted the layout so I got curious, should have specified

 

[skatermanbob]

Hey everyone.  I did some reading but I didn't find any solutions to a slight issue I have with my Rev D.

I was able to calibrate it, all the voltages match within 10% of the mnats schematic.  I purchased the bourns output pot upgrade that was suggested, but when I increase the output of the 1176, it gets REALLY noisy.  Not like white noise, but more what I would describe as "snow like".  It also isn't a consistent hiss.  I've never heard anything like this before.  But as long as I keep the output pot very quiet I can still use the unit for compression. 

Has anyone had a problem like this?  Is it a grounding issue?  thanks again for an awesome kit!  It was a pleasure to put together!

 

[Echo North]

Hey everyone.  I did some reading but I didn't find any solutions to a slight issue I have with my Rev D.

I was able to calibrate it, all the voltages match within 10% of the mnats schematic.  I purchased the bourns output pot upgrade that was suggested, but when I increase the output of the 1176, it gets REALLY noisy.  Not like white noise, but more what I would describe as "snow like".  It also isn't a consistent hiss.  I've never heard anything like this before.  But as long as I keep the output pot very quiet I can still use the unit for compression. 

Has anyone had a problem like this?  Is it a grounding issue?  thanks again for an awesome kit!  It was a pleasure to put together!

Someone posted a solution for this.  Make sure you have your wires (specifically the output wires) away from the PCB running around the edge and not over/under the PCB.  Make sure you have your power supply grounded as described in the wiring guide.

 

[skatermanbob]

I was very meticulous with the wiring making sure that everything intersected at 90 deg and the output stayed far away from the pcb.  The input or output pots need to be isolated from chassis ground, correct? I just want to make sure it wasn't something simple like that...