[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

[leitrim_lad]

Hi there.. I just have a quick question about the 1176. I built one of these around a year ago and ive just noticed something about the input level. Recently i was tracking vocals for example and i was coming out of an ez1073 clone i built into the 1176. I had checked my output level of the ez1073 and it was quite normal for tracking.  However i seem to have to put the input knob on the 1176 down extremely low to get the right amout of compression. I find, especially at ratio 4, the compression kicks in extremely quick. Is this normal?

Thanks

 

[offthewallstudio]

[quote aut @ pad 7[/color]

Mike

Hi Mike. Question. I think the kit was mmissing a few resistors r9 560k and r28 27k
i have 13 other resistors left over. Pls see photos.

more photos
[/quote]

That's really weird.  We'll send you the missing parts but check the rest of the parts (capacitors) first to see if you're missing anything else.

You have a lot of cold looking joints.  Try to use a little less solder.
[/quote] 
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Hi Mike, so yes i am missing a few pieces. i went back to check a few of the resistors and they were all accurate to the pbc bord. here are a few photos

missing:
R3 560
R28 27K
R9 560K
C11 10u micro ferits
I cannot find C27... Maybe its not on the rev D version? I have a cap that has 22nJ63 printed on it. I dont know where that goes or if it goes any where
C2 (sorry I forget the value)

As you see in the photo i still have left over 470 / .56m (i am not even sure if that can be the right reading?) / and a 272 k / 55 /all these are resistors.

i tried to post these photos on the thread but it wouldn't upload. i will try again if you like?

Its almost done! just need to wire it up!

 

[Echo North]

C11 is 10 picofarad (pF),  It’s small an blue.

C27 is the 22nJ63.  22nF is .022uF.

The 2 resistors you mention and the C27 go on the attack and release pots.  READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.  All of it is in there.

I’ll send you the missing components tomorrow.

Mike

 

[Echo North]

Hello,

I just completed the Rev. D. Before I plugged it in, I rechecked polarity on all polarized components, checked for solder bridges, then went through the entire wiring guide again to make sure everything was wired correctly. I had previously checked my power supply, and it provided voltage at the test points within range.

I turned it on, and the meter lamp came on and I ran a 1khz signal through the input. The unit was receiving signal fine and the knobs seemed to work. Then, all of a sudden the light went out and it stopped working completely.

I checked my fuse, and it appears intact. I then re-measured the DC voltages (+30DC and -10DC), but I am now not getting any DC at all at the test points.

One thing that I did which could possibly have caused issues, is that in completing the meter lamp wiring, I connected the meter lamp circuit wires to the terminal blocks for the power transformer secondary. I did this because I did the build without a terminal strip for the transformer secondary, and connected the secondary wires right to the PCB terminal strip.

Knowing (and accepting) that I have probably made some stupid error somewhere along the way, does anybody have any insight about what could have happened, and where I should start looking for problems?

Thanks in advance!

Hard to say.  Sounds like you blew a fuse or it's not seated right.

 

[Echo North]

Hi there.. I just have a quick question about the 1176. I built one of these around a year ago and ive just noticed something about the input level. Recently i was tracking vocals for example and i was coming out of an ez1073 clone i built into the 1176. I had checked my output level of the ez1073 and it was quite normal for tracking.  However i seem to have to put the input knob on the 1176 down extremely low to get the right amout of compression. I find, especially at ratio 4, the compression kicks in extremely quick. Is this normal?

Thanks

If it's changed you might want to check your calibration.  However the input pot curve is more sensitive to the original so instead of the common 11 an 2 o'clock input/output you may be more at 9 o'clock and 1 o'clock.

 

[jonesey013]

Hello,

I just completed the Rev. D. Before I plugged it in, I rechecked polarity on all polarized components, checked for solder bridges, then went through the entire wiring guide again to make sure everything was wired correctly. I had previously checked my power supply, and it provided voltage at the test points within range.

I turned it on, and the meter lamp came on and I ran a 1khz signal through the input. The unit was receiving signal fine and the knobs seemed to work. Then, all of a sudden the light went out and it stopped working completely.

I checked my fuse, and it appears intact. I then re-measured the DC voltages (+30DC and -10DC), but I am now not getting any DC at all at the test points.

One thing that I did which could possibly have caused issues, is that in completing the meter lamp wiring, I connected the meter lamp circuit wires to the terminal blocks for the power transformer secondary. I did this because I did the build without a terminal strip for the transformer secondary, and connected the secondary wires right to the PCB terminal strip.

Knowing (and accepting) that I have probably made some stupid error somewhere along the way, does anybody have any insight about what could have happened, and where I should start looking for problems?

Thanks in advance!

Hard to say.  Sounds like you blew a fuse or it's not seated right.

Thanks. I checked the fuse again and it looks intact. I swapped out the fuse just to make sure, and I'm still getting no power. I also checked the secondary leads for voltage and there is nothing on those wires themselves. Could i have somehow blown the power transformer? I am really stumped...

 

[leitrim_lad]

thanks a million for that.. ill check the cal again. something i did notice, and change, was at the time i calibrated the needle was at 0 but a while after it slipped below 0.. i just used the adjuster on the front to change it back to 0. im just wondering was this ok to do or does it effect the calibration?

thanks

Hi there.. I just have a quick question about the 1176. I built one of these around a year ago and ive just noticed something about the input level. Recently i was tracking vocals for example and i was coming out of an ez1073 clone i built into the 1176. I had checked my output level of the ez1073 and it was quite normal for tracking.  However i seem to have to put the input knob on the 1176 down extremely low to get the right amout of compression. I find, especially at ratio 4, the compression kicks in extremely quick. Is this normal?

Thanks

If it's changed you might want to check your calibration.  However the input pot curve is more sensitive to the original so instead of the common 11 an 2 o'clock input/output you may be more at 9 o'clock and 1 o'clock.

 

[Echo North]

Hello,

I just completed the Rev. D. Before I plugged it in, I rechecked polarity on all polarized components, checked for solder bridges, then went through the entire wiring guide again to make sure everything was wired correctly. I had previously checked my power supply, and it provided voltage at the test points within range.

I turned it on, and the meter lamp came on and I ran a 1khz signal through the input. The unit was receiving signal fine and the knobs seemed to work. Then, all of a sudden the light went out and it stopped working completely.

I checked my fuse, and it appears intact. I then re-measured the DC voltages (+30DC and -10DC), but I am now not getting any DC at all at the test points.

One thing that I did which could possibly have caused issues, is that in completing the meter lamp wiring, I connected the meter lamp circuit wires to the terminal blocks for the power transformer secondary. I did this because I did the build without a terminal strip for the transformer secondary, and connected the secondary wires right to the PCB terminal strip.

Knowing (and accepting) that I have probably made some stupid error somewhere along the way, does anybody have any insight about what could have happened, and where I should start looking for problems?

Thanks in advance!

Hard to say.  Sounds like you blew a fuse or it's not seated right.

Thanks. I checked the fuse again and it looks intact. I swapped out the fuse just to make sure, and I'm still getting no power. I also checked the secondary leads for voltage and there is nothing on those wires themselves. Could i have somehow blown the power transformer? I am really stumped...

Be very careful. Test to see that you have your mains AC voltage at between the IEC L and N.  If you see mains voltage then test the secondary of the transformer for AC.  Test at the main PCB between the CT and each of the AC pads.

If you have no primary AC you have something bad in your power cable or fuse.  If you have mains AC but no secondary AC your power transformer may have failed.  Send us an email for replacement.

Mike

 

[Echo North]

thanks a million for that.. ill check the cal again. something i did notice, and change, was at the time i calibrated the needle was at 0 but a while after it slipped below 0.. i just used the adjuster on the front to change it back to 0. im just wondering was this ok to do or does it effect the calibration?

thanks

Hi there.. I just have a quick question about the 1176. I built one of these around a year ago and ive just noticed something about the input level. Recently i was tracking vocals for example and i was coming out of an ez1073 clone i built into the 1176. I had checked my output level of the ez1073 and it was quite normal for tracking.  However i seem to have to put the input knob on the 1176 down extremely low to get the right amout of compression. I find, especially at ratio 4, the compression kicks in extremely quick. Is this normal?

Thanks

If it's changed you might want to check your calibration.  However the input pot curve is more sensitive to the original so instead of the common 11 an 2 o'clock input/output you may be more at 9 o'clock and 1 o'clock.

Zero will drift.  That's why they put a trimmer on the front panel.  Shouldn't change operation however.

Mike

 

[jonesey013]

Hello,

I just completed the Rev. D. Before I plugged it in, I rechecked polarity on all polarized components, checked for solder bridges, then went through the entire wiring guide again to make sure everything was wired correctly. I had previously checked my power supply, and it provided voltage at the test points within range.

I turned it on, and the meter lamp came on and I ran a 1khz signal through the input. The unit was receiving signal fine and the knobs seemed to work. Then, all of a sudden the light went out and it stopped working completely.

I checked my fuse, and it appears intact. I then re-measured the DC voltages (+30DC and -10DC), but I am now not getting any DC at all at the test points.

One thing that I did which could possibly have caused issues, is that in completing the meter lamp wiring, I connected the meter lamp circuit wires to the terminal blocks for the power transformer secondary. I did this because I did the build without a terminal strip for the transformer secondary, and connected the secondary wires right to the PCB terminal strip.

Knowing (and accepting) that I have probably made some stupid error somewhere along the way, does anybody have any insight about what could have happened, and where I should start looking for problems?

Thanks in advance!

Hard to say.  Sounds like you blew a fuse or it's not seated right.

Thanks. I checked the fuse again and it looks intact. I swapped out the fuse just to make sure, and I'm still getting no power. I also checked the secondary leads for voltage and there is nothing on those wires themselves. Could i have somehow blown the power transformer? I am really stumped...

Be very careful. Test to see that you have your mains AC voltage at between the IEC L and N.  If you see mains voltage then test the secondary of the transformer for AC.  Test at the main PCB between the CT and each of the AC pads.

If you have no primary AC you have something bad in your power cable or fuse.  If you have mains AC but no secondary AC your power transformer may have failed.  Send us an email for replacement.

Mike

Thanks Again. I tested the AC mains at the IEC and got less than a volt AC. Weird.  I tried a different power cable and a different outlet, and same result. I also tried a different fuse, and same result. So I guess the good news is my power transformer might be okay, but I'm still stumped. Perhaps the fuse is not seated right…although if that were the case it doesn't explain why it turned on for a while then quit. Maybe the IEC is wired incorrectly?

Here is a photo of the IEC. Maybe there is something here that I am missing?

Thanks again for all your help!

 

[Echo North]

With the unit disconnected and the plug out of the IEC, locate the L terminal on the outside of the IEC and test continuity the L terminal on the inside of the IEC.  Do the same for N and the G terminals.  Maybe your IEC is damaged.

Stumped.

 

[jonesey013]

With the unit disconnected and the plug out of the IEC, locate the L terminal on the outside of the IEC and test continuity the L terminal on the inside of the IEC.  Do the same for N and the G terminals.  Maybe your IEC is damaged.

Stumped.

Well, that seems to be the culprit. Thanks! Continuity is fine for N and G, but there is no continuity between the outside L terminal and the inside L terminal, though there IS continuity between the outside L terminal and the metal strip on the far right on the inside of the IEC(which I believe should be internally connected in the IEC through the fuse to the inside L terminal).

It still makes me think that the more obvious solution is that the fuse is somehow not seated right, but there seems to be only one way to install them (in the clip in the IEC piece) and they're not polarized. But again, if that were true, it still wouldn't explain why it had power before and then suddenly stopped. Interesting…

Thanks for the help on this. My thinking is that the solution is to try a different IEC and see if that fixes the problem.

 

[mnats]

Thanks. I checked the fuse again and it looks intact. I swapped out the fuse just to make sure, and I'm still getting no power.

Wait, you checked the fuse and it looks intact? Did you test continuity or just look at it?

 

[jonesey013]

Thanks. I checked the fuse again and it looks intact. I swapped out the fuse just to make sure, and I'm still getting no power.

Wait, you checked the fuse and it looks intact? Did you test continuity or just look at it?

I just looked at it and I did not check continuity of the fuses. I have now.  And, of course, none of the fuses I used have continuity, but the ones I haven't tried do… Thanks for pointing that out, it's often the simplest answer that ends up being correct, and that is certainly true here. Oh well, a learning experience for me

So I guess my next issue becomes why the fuses are blowing as soon as the unit is powered up. My guess is a short somewhere very early on in the circuit?

 

[mnats]

My guess is a short somewhere very early on in the circuit?

No need to guess. Measure instead. A short equals continuity, low resistance where not expected may indicate a problem.

But first make sure you have the right fuse type and value. Do a search - this topic has been raised a number of times. Or have a look at my wiring pages that link to Harpo's thorough explanation about how to calculate the right value.

 

[studiostuff]

I was going to ask the same question, but thought it was too obvious that measuring the fuse for continuity was essential. But I didn't...

But let me just add that I had the same problem. The fuses looked OK, so I took a few minutes looking for something else before measuring to find out the fuses had been popped by the inrush current or whatever that may be called.

The solution for me was to get a slightly higher value fuse, and all has been well ever since. Sorry I didn't speak up sooner.

The value I am using is 400mA Slo-Blo. The unit has been reliable ever since. I am not recommending that value to you... It may be too high to be appropriate to use in the circuit. But it is the value I am using and it doesn't seem to have been a problem, so far.

 

[Echo North]

I was going to ask the same question, but thought it was too obvious that measuring the fuse for continuity was essential. But I didn't...

But let me just add that I had the same problem. The fuses looked OK, so I took a few minutes looking for something else before measuring to find out the fuses had been popped by the inrush current or whatever that may be called.

The solution for me was to get a slightly higher value fuse, and all has been well ever since. Sorry I didn't speak up sooner.

The value I am using is 400mA Slo-Blo. The unit has been reliable ever since. I am not recommending that value to you... It may be too high to be appropriate to use in the circuit. But it is the value I am using and it doesn't seem to have been a problem, so far.

400mA slo-blo is the correct value and that's what we ship now.  Early on we shipped 250mA which is under valued but about a year ago we made the witch to 400.

Mike

 

[jonesey013]

Thanks guys! That could be the problem. I had 250mA fuses from mouser. New fuses on the way, so I will try that and see how it works from there.

Thanks everybody for your help on this, I appreciate it!

 

[Timh]

Thanks guys! That could be the problem. I had 250mA fuses from mouser. New fuses on the way, so I will try that and see how it works from there.

Thanks everybody for your help on this, I appreciate it!

I've been having the same exact problem with my Rev A. I was just about to order a new power transformer, but I came here first and realized I also have 250mA fuses. Checked their continuity and they were all bad. I really hope this is my only problem.

 

[mnats]

Let's not repeat the same mistake that led to the 250mA fuse being suggested in the first place. Fuse ratings are specific to your region's line voltage and your transformer's specifications. Read Harpo's post referred to earlier.

Thanks guys! That could be the problem. I had 250mA fuses from mouser. New fuses on the way, so I will try that and see how it works from there.

Thanks everybody for your help on this, I appreciate it!

I've been having the same exact problem with my Rev A. I was just about to order a new power transformer, but I came here first and realized I also have 250mA fuses. Checked their continuity and they were all bad. I really hope this is my only problem.