[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

[dbonin]

Regarding what MNATS was refering to:

  http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=20058.msg651744;topicseen#msg651744

Enjoy!
Don

Let's not repeat the same mistake that led to the 250mA fuse being suggested in the first place. Fuse ratings are specific to your region's line voltage and your transformer's specifications. Read Harpo's post referred to earlier.

Thanks guys! That could be the problem. I had 250mA fuses from mouser. New fuses on the way, so I will try that and see how it works from there.

Thanks everybody for your help on this, I appreciate it!

I've been having the same exact problem with my Rev A. I was just about to order a new power transformer, but I came here first and realized I also have 250mA fuses. Checked their continuity and they were all bad. I really hope this is my only problem.

 

[offthewallstudio]

I was going to ask the same question, but thought it was too obvious that measuring the fuse for continuity was essential. But I didn't...

But let me just add that I had the same problem. The fuses looked OK, so I took a few minutes looking for something else before measuring to find out the fuses had been popped by the inrush current or whatever that may be called.

The solution for me was to get a slightly higher value fuse, and all has been well ever since. Sorry I didn't speak up sooner.

The value I am using is 400mA Slo-Blo. The unit has been reliable ever since. I am not recommending that value to you... It may be too high to be appropriate to use in the circuit. But it is the value I am using and it doesn't seem to have been a problem, so far.

400mA slo-blo is the correct value and that's what we ship now.  Early on we shipped 250mA which is under valued but about a year ago we made the witch to 400.

Mike

I think im close to finishing this up! Question.  Im doing the attack and release potentiometers.  How do i understand witch one of these go where on the chassis?  I can simply look at the photos to find out but how do i distinguish between them? There are no noticeable markings ext. Thanks!

 

[dbonin]

I think im close to finishing this up! Question.  Im doing the attack and release potentiometers.  How do i understand witch one of these go where on the chassis?  I can simply look at the photos to find out but how do i distinguish between them? There are no noticeable markings ext. Thanks!

The output and release pots look similar, which I will assume is what you meant.
The output pot is 250k, the release is 5M - measure them with your meter.

Good luck!
Don

 

[offthewallstudio]

I think im close to finishing this up! Question.  Im doing the attack and release potentiometers.  How do i understand witch one of these go where on the chassis?  I can simply look at the photos to find out but how do i distinguish between them? There are no noticeable markings ext. Thanks!

The output and release pots look similar, which I will assume is what you meant.
The output pot is 250k, the release is 5M - measure them with your meter.

Good luck!
Don

great thanks! Is that a standard way of doing it or is that in the schematic?

 

[offthewallstudio]

I think im close to finishing this up! Question.  Im doing the attack and release potentiometers.  How do i understand witch one of these go where on the chassis?  I can simply look at the photos to find out but how do i distinguish between them? There are no noticeable markings ext. Thanks!

The output and release pots look similar, which I will assume is what you meant.
The output pot is 250k, the release is 5M - measure them with your meter.

Good luck!
Don

i still dont understand.  Are youtalking about the resistors?  Here is a photo.  How do i know what knob goes where or does it not matter?

 

[offthewallstudio]

I think im close to finishing this up! Question.  Im doing the attack and release potentiometers.  How do i understand witch one of these go where on the chassis?  I can simply look at the photos to find out but how do i distinguish between them? There are no noticeable markings ext. Thanks!

The output and release pots look similar, which I will assume is what you meant.
The output pot is 250k, the release is 5M - measure them with your meter.

Good luck!
Don

i think i got it sorry. On the top of the it said B250K got it sorry and thanks. Also why do i have this small one left over on the leat. The xlr on thw right is just to compare in size.  is it just and extra one?

 

[dbonin]

I think im close to finishing this up! Question.  Im doing the attack and release potentiometers.  How do i understand witch one of these go where on the chassis?  I can simply look at the photos to find out but how do i distinguish between them? There are no noticeable markings ext. Thanks!

The output and release pots look similar, which I will assume is what you meant.
The output pot is 250k, the release is 5M - measure them with your meter.

Good luck!
Don

i still dont understand.  Are youtalking about the resistors?  Here is a photo.  How do i know what knob goes where or does it not matter?

Of course it matters.    Hairball and MNATS have some of the best, detailed instructions on how to wire these kits.  Take your time and go back and read them again.  If that doesn't help I would suggest you get some assistance - you may need some help from  someone a little more experienced.

The B5M is the release pot - to test a pot put your meter  leads on the middle and an outside wiper lead,  set your meter to read ohms and turn the pot from one extreme to the other - all will become clear as you do this. 

Good luck!

 

[dbonin]

I think im close to finishing this up! Question.  Im doing the attack and release potentiometers.  How do i understand witch one of these go where on the chassis?  I can simply look at the photos to find out but how do i distinguish between them? There are no noticeable markings ext. Thanks!

The output and release pots look similar, which I will assume is what you meant.
The output pot is 250k, the release is 5M - measure them with your meter.

Good luck!
Don

i think i got it sorry. On the top of the it said B250K got it sorry and thanks. Also why do i have this small one left over on the leat. The xlr on thw right is just to compare in size.  is it just and extra one?

As far as I know, Hairball is not including any spare parts in their kits - especially not extra pots - measure the pot like I suggested and figure out where is goes.    There are only a few pots included with the kit and each one has a very specific placement.

Good luck!

 

[offthewallstudio]

I think im close to finishing this up! Question.  Im doing the attack and release potentiometers.  How do i understand witch one of these go where on the chassis?  I can simply look at the photos to find out but how do i distinguish between them? There are no noticeable markings ext. Thanks!

The output and release pots look similar, which I will assume is what you meant.
The output pot is 250k, the release is 5M - measure them with your meter.

Good luck!
Don

i think i got it sorry. On the top of the it said B250K got it sorry and thanks. Also why do i have this small one left over on the leat. The xlr on thw right is just to compare in size.  is it just and extra one?

As far as I know, Hairball is not including any spare parts in their kits - especially not extra pots - measure the pot like I suggested and figure out where is goes.    There are only a few pots included with the kit and each one has a very specific placement.

Good luck!

YOU ROCK MAN!!!! Thank you so much!

 

[EmptyMusicBox1]

Hello today i have a problem with my 1176LN rev D meter !

yesterday work perfectly and this morning the meter not working for all position ( +4 / +8 / GR)

the audio is okay !

what do you think ? 

 

[dbonin]

Hello today i have a problem with my 1176LN rev D meter !

yesterday work perfectly and this morning the meter not working for all position ( +4 / +8 / GR)

the audio is okay !

what do you think ?

In those positions does the meter just sit to the far left?
How long has the unit been working - days, weeks, months, years?    If you only started using it recently and you have gone through a few hot/cold cycles it may be a cold solder joint.  Intermittent issues are a pain to trace, but that doesn't seem to be the case here?
A completely dead part should be easy to find - somewhere DC is no longer making it to/through the meter.  Have a look at the schematic and start tracing, probing  the circuit around the meter for DC with reference to ground.
Check your wiring on the meter switch.

Good luck!

 

[Echo North]

I think im close to finishing this up! Question.  Im doing the attack and release potentiometers.  How do i understand witch one of these go where on the chassis?  I can simply look at the photos to find out but how do i distinguish between them? There are no noticeable markings ext. Thanks!

The output and release pots look similar, which I will assume is what you meant.
The output pot is 250k, the release is 5M - measure them with your meter.

Good luck!
Don

i think i got it sorry. On the top of the it said B250K got it sorry and thanks. Also why do i have this small one left over on the leat. The xlr on thw right is just to compare in size.  is it just and extra one?

Got your email.

You have 5 pots.

Input = Blue 3 deck T-pad
Output = Marked 250K
Release = Marked 5M
Attack = Marked 25K with a black switch on it's ass.
Zero Adjust = Smaller pot marked 2K

Not sure what else to say at this point but read the build guide closer:

http://www.hairballaudio.com/blog/d_assembly/revd/wiring-your-compressor/

Mike

 

[offthewallstudio]

I think im close to finishing this up! Question.  Im doing the attack and release potentiometers.  How do i understand witch one of these go where on the chassis?  I can simply look at the photos to find out but how do i distinguish between them? There are no noticeable markings ext. Thanks!

The output and release pots look similar, which I will assume is what you meant.
The output pot is 250k, the release is 5M - measure them with your meter.

Good luck!
Don

i think i got it sorry. On the top of the it said B250K got it sorry and thanks. Also why do i have this small one left over on the leat. The xlr on thw right is just to compare in size.  is it just and extra one?

Got your email.

You have 5 pots.

Input = Blue 3 deck T-pad
Output = Marked 250K
Release = Marked 5M
Attack = Marked 25K with a black switch on it's ass.
Zero Adjust = Smaller pot marked 2K

Not sure what else to say at this point but read the build guide closer:

http://www.hairballaudio.com/blog/d_assembly/revd/wiring-your-compressor/

Mike

sorry I don't know how to reply without quoting people. But on the input transformer to the PCB board the show the wire we have the black and red wire connected the conductor wire was not instructed to be clipped off or mounted or put a Sheldon heat shrink tube over it. Let me know if i need to clip this off and put heat shrink on it thanks it is above C1

 

[dbonin]

sorry I don't know how to reply without quoting people. But on the input transformer to the PCB board the show the wire we have the black and red wire connected the conductor wire was not instructed to be clipped off or mounted or put a Sheldon heat shrink tube over it. Let me know if i need to clip this off and put heat shrink on it thanks it is above C1

Clip the shield - only the red/black wires from the output side of the input transformer connect to the PCB.

 

[critterkllr]

Hey, I'm hoping somebody could help chime in on this. I've been using my 1176 for close to 10 months without any issues. I have the MNATs Rev D pcb with the complete Hairball Audio kit. I'm right in the middle of a mix down and it starting acting up. Here's what's happening:

Two days ago it was really humid. We were moving some things and had the door open. I started to notice that some of the equipment had a layer of water developing on them, so I shut the door. No electronics were turned on.

I went to bounce some mixes yesterday and my 1176 wasn't working. The meter was all the way too the left and the volume output was really low. Like it was stuck at max compression. All buttons in moved the meter to the right for a second (like usual), but nothing else did. I turned everything off and let it sit for another day.

Today I powered it on and it started doing something similar, but instead the meter is showing halfway and the volume output is about half as low as it was yesterday. It's slowly moving back to the right. After being on for an hour, it's back to zero on the meter and appears to be functioning normally.

When I initially built it I had a wiring issue. When I was troubleshooting I went over the PCB a million times. There are no cold solder joints and the pcb was fully cleaned very well.

It's seeming like this thing is really sensitive to humidity/temperature. I recall when building it that when I blew near Q11, Q12, and Q13, the meter jumped around while I was blowing on it.  I walked away for a day and tried it again. Of course, it didn't jump around anymore and appeared to be working fine.

Any ideas on what could possibly cause this? It seems like a poor solder joint, but I went over and over this thing. I'm wondering if perhaps I have a bad or sensitive component, or if the pcb itself might have a bad trace or something.

 

[jonesey013]

Thanks guys! That could be the problem. I had 250mA fuses from mouser. New fuses on the way, so I will try that and see how it works from there.

Thanks everybody for your help on this, I appreciate it!

Just got around to getting back to this project. I replaced the 250mA fuses with a higher value (500mA) and everything works great! Did all of the calibrations without issue and tested it with audio and it sounds great! Thank you all for your help on this, stoked!

 

[B-ry514]

Hey Guys I have a small issue that is turning into a big issue so your help will definitely go a long way here.

Before I begin, i'm not a beginner and I am capable of reading tech sheets and testing wiring schematics. This is my 3rd DIY Hairball kit so far, the other two have been flawless. This one on the other hand has the following issue:

When I try calibrating it I send a 0.77VAC 1K tone through the unit and the output meter will only rise to 0.36VAC roughly -10db on the meter. I seem to be getting almost no output from the unit. It's wired the same has the same parts and pieces yet it has barely any output. I have +30VDC on wire black and brown at the output transformer measuring from CT of the input power supply and those wires.

I tested the output pot wire and they read about 2.76VAC at the highest point across Pad 15 and 17. Is there something I'm missing. I tested all the voltage points at Q6, Output transformer, power supply voltage and so on. It all tests the correct voltage.

Is there anything else I should be aware of that could cause this?

Your help will be much appreciated.

 

[Echo North]

Hey Guys I have a small issue that is turning into a big issue so your help will definitely go a long way here.

Before I begin, i'm not a beginner and I am capable of reading tech sheets and testing wiring schematics. This is my 3rd DIY Hairball kit so far, the other two have been flawless. This one on the other hand has the following issue:

When I try calibrating it I send a 0.77VAC 1K tone through the unit and the output meter will only rise to 0.36VAC roughly -10db on the meter. I seem to be getting almost no output from the unit. It's wired the same has the same parts and pieces yet it has barely any output. I have +30VDC on wire black and brown at the output transformer measuring from CT of the input power supply and those wires.

I tested the output pot wire and they read about 2.76VAC at the highest point across Pad 15 and 17. Is there something I'm missing. I tested all the voltage points at Q6, Output transformer, power supply voltage and so on. It all tests the correct voltage.

Is there anything else I should be aware of that could cause this?

Your help will be much appreciated.

Everything looks ok up to you output pot, must be something in your line amp.  Your line amp transistor voltages appear correct?

Bad transformers are really rare.  Would not be my first guess but you could look for a broken winding.  The windings themselves will have very low DC resistance.  Could be 4 to 300 ohms depending on the transformer winding but what you should NOT see is an infinite or very high DC resistance in a winding, or a short/low resistance between different windings.  Disconnect it from the PCB before testing.

More likely would be a damaged semi conductor.  Q6 is prone to DOA or installation damage.  You could test the AC signal at the transistor in circuit or pull it and do the "diode test" on it.

Let me know what you find, we'll get it.

Mike

 

[EmptyMusicBox1]

Ok i have check my problem...

it was the METER !!!!!! it was a Sifam but inside the wire was disconect ....

 

[dwilko]

Howdy All,

First post… sorry if I've done it in the wrong place or using the wrong method - please educate me if this turns out to wrong!!

First build - Hairball Rev D… successful calibration completed.  However, the attack/release pots are not working as they are supposed to… I can hear some small variation when adjusting the attack but not the same snap as the UA revisions I've used before. 

More concerning, the release appears to do nothing at all…  not only is there no sonic change as far as I can hear, but the meter ballistics don't appear to change regardless of the setting of the pot.

I went over the wiring last night and everything's connected to where it's supposed to be and the soldering seemed ok to me… obviously somethings not right tho...

Where do I start with tracking down the source of the problem? Please explain in a very 'for dummies' way!!

Cheers,

Dave