hymentoptera
Well-known member
I can't see a lifted trace there, but it's hard to tell. You can check for continuity using your multimeter, in either continuity mode or ohms mode, with the unit unplugged and off of course. Just follow the trace to any two pads on either side of the damaged area and make sure you have very low DC resistance. If not then it's certainly lifted.
The easiest way to fix a lifted or blown trace is to simply jumper between the two closest pads which are directly connected to the damage part using a short piece of wire. I have about 100 feet of nice tinned 28 gauge that I keep around just for this kind of thing. Once repaired, double check everything for continuity in the surrounding area that should have continuity using your multimeter.
I believe the next closest pad would be right next to it, R10 on the PCB (R58 on the schematic, 56k according to this document http://www.hairballaudio.com/docs/FET%20Compressor%20PCB%20Board%20Info%20V3.pdf )
If that pad is completely screwed, you could just send that wire straight into the leg of R10 if there's room, ignoring pad "6-15" altogether. Easiest way might be, if that resistor is already too short, would be to desolder it and replace it with another 56k ohm resistor, leaving the leg long enough there to attach the wire directly to it where it pokes through the PCB. Or lift just one side of it and solder the red wire right to it where the short trace would normally go.
Sorry if this is confusing, it's just hard to explain. The point is simply to follow the trace and connect what should be connected.
Yes, it's possible that a lifted pad would give you problems. I think that wire, if it's the one I'm thinking of, it brings the output of the preamp section into the resistor ladder that feeds the gain reduction amp. That would cause there to be no gain reduction at any setting
Also, there appears to be a stay wire hanging from the green wire over to the purple one? That's not touching anything is it?
The easiest way to fix a lifted or blown trace is to simply jumper between the two closest pads which are directly connected to the damage part using a short piece of wire. I have about 100 feet of nice tinned 28 gauge that I keep around just for this kind of thing. Once repaired, double check everything for continuity in the surrounding area that should have continuity using your multimeter.
I believe the next closest pad would be right next to it, R10 on the PCB (R58 on the schematic, 56k according to this document http://www.hairballaudio.com/docs/FET%20Compressor%20PCB%20Board%20Info%20V3.pdf )
If that pad is completely screwed, you could just send that wire straight into the leg of R10 if there's room, ignoring pad "6-15" altogether. Easiest way might be, if that resistor is already too short, would be to desolder it and replace it with another 56k ohm resistor, leaving the leg long enough there to attach the wire directly to it where it pokes through the PCB. Or lift just one side of it and solder the red wire right to it where the short trace would normally go.
Sorry if this is confusing, it's just hard to explain. The point is simply to follow the trace and connect what should be connected.
Yes, it's possible that a lifted pad would give you problems. I think that wire, if it's the one I'm thinking of, it brings the output of the preamp section into the resistor ladder that feeds the gain reduction amp. That would cause there to be no gain reduction at any setting
Also, there appears to be a stay wire hanging from the green wire over to the purple one? That's not touching anything is it?
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what's the gate ? E B or C for a transistor ?
