[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

[Ben J]

Ok, I went over the board and couldn't find anything else amiss, aside from R12 being 910 rather than 920 and using 2N3308's instead of 3307's.

I did find that I had 15 and 17 flipped and connected to the wrong output pot lugs.

I'm not sure if it's psychological, but it seems to sound less distorted now - it's still lacking severely in bass though.

I found another thread in which someone had similar hi-pass problems, and it was attributed to connecting the 1176 to an unbalanced device. My interface is definitely balanced, but I am wondering if any problems can arise from the fact that the cables going to and from the input transformer are unbalanced. I tried stripping away some of the outer jacket to get to the ground wire and alligator-clipped them to ground, but that didn't seem to do anything.

I guess I'll just keep poking around at this thing... :-\

 

[Biasrocks]

Ok, I went over the board and couldn't find anything else amiss, aside from R12 being 910 rather than 920 and using 2N3308's instead of 3307's.

According to the datasheet, the 2N3308 is underrated compared to the 2N3307, when it comes to voltage.

http://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf-datasheets/Datasheets-8/DSA-154896.html

So, it may be your 2N3308's are breaking down by exceeding voltage maximums.

Mark

 

[Echo North]

I've used 3308's on many builds, those wouldn't (shouldn't) be the issue.  I think many people have been using them because they had a higher hFE.

Try testing your transistor DC voltages.  This sheet is for the J board but still works as a guide.

http://www.axtsystems.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=57:1176lnproblems&catid=34:1176ln&Itemid=62

Mike

 

[Stagefright13]

I know if you don't have the 2 wires on the output transformer connected together you will lose A lot of bass. Orange and yellow I think?

John

 

[Echo North]

I know if you don't have the 2 wires on the output transformer connected together you will lose A lot of bass. Orange and yellow I think?

John

Yes orange and yellow.  Tie them together and nothing else.

Mike

 

[Ben J]

SUCCESS!!!!!!

I guess I didn't know they were supposed to be electrically connected like that - I thought they were just unused and being tucked out of the way. :-[

Last night, I did narrow the problem down to being located in the signal amp section by probing around with a multimeter lead connected to an XLR cable and my interface. I determined that the problem was definitely in the OT, since everything before it sounded flat (no low freq attenuation). So I thought it was somehow damaged and ended up ordering another EA-5002 from Hairball. :-[

But I guess shouldn't feel too stupid, because I have one SWEET 1176 now. It sounds fantastic - it's absolutely putting the Waves CLA-76 to shame, which is one of the very best comp plugins out there, IMO.

Thanks for everything, Mike. I guess I'll use that extra OT for another Rev D or a possibly an A, in the near future.

 

[Echo North]

Awesome!

The 5002 main secondary gets wired in series.  The ORG and YEL are the center leads.

It hasn't shipped yet.  Shoot me an email, I can refund your order if you like.  Paypal allows full refunds including fees for like a month.  I'll hold off until I hear from you.

info (at) hairballaudio (dot) com

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Ben J]

Thank you, sir.

 

[tfletchii]

Quick question. On Mnats wiring guide he says to use the third example in Mark Burnley's power transformer guide (http://www.diyfactory.com/data/transformer_connections.gif) but when I look at Skylar's guide (http://www.filefactory.com/file/ag514d3/n/SG-1176-RevD-Wiring_ALLv3_pdf) he uses Burnley's 4th example. Is one wiring more preferable? incorrect?

 

[Echo North]

Haven't looked at the Skylar power guide, but the Pri/Sec must be swapped right/left in the two diagrams.

On the secondary you definitely want Burnley's #3.

If you live in 120V countries, your primary would look like #4 or the 120V drawing on the left.

Mike

 

[tfletchii]

that's what i thought. thanks mike

 

[Randyman...]

So - I'm still wrapping up my first pair of Hairball/mnats 1176 Rev A's.  The SA3A and SB4000 are also on my list - but I'm also wanting to build the 1176 Rev D as a 2-1176 stereo chassis.  Hairball obviously has the classic enclosures, and the mnats + Hairball combined instructions are making the Rev A doable for me.  What about doing the 2-1176 in a single chassis?  I've seen a few pics - and it does get tight in there - but I can't seem to nail down as much info on the single chassis 2-1176 builds - and I have some questions:

Who sells the chassis and faceplate?  Are they punched and drilled - or will I have to punch & drill for XLR's, PCB Mounting, etc?  If the chassis and faceplate are purchased separately - which chassis is adequate (model # or link would be great!)?  How hard is drilling out the XLR's, etc (if needed)?

Does anyone offer a kit similar to Hairball's for the 2-1176?

Is there an accurate BOM for the 2-1176 Rev D using the mnats boards and whichever chassis/faceplate is common?


If not - What are acceptable P/N's for the Rotary Switches, Power Transformer, and meters for the prefabbed face plate for a 2-1176?


I'm assuming the Stereo Link Boards would still be required here for stereo operation?  Is there adequate room for them - or is some creative "stacking" needed?

Is anything else different from the Hairball single chassis 1176 Rev D BOM / Mouser Cart?



Thanks so much!  My DIY Compressor lust is in full effect!  Looks like I waited just long enough.  It seems like there has been an EXPLOSION in DIY Compressor kits the past year.  I'm all for that!  ;D

8)

 

[Echo North]

Hi,

There is a 2-1176 enclosure in development.  Not mine, but in conjunction with Hairball.  Stay tuned for info and parts info.

Yes you still need a stereo kit.

Mike

 

[Randyman...]

I can indeed stay tuned - do you have a loose ETA?  A month, 6 Months, etc?

This is still just two mnats PCB's stuffed in a single chassis - correct?  Or is a new 2-1176 PCB in the works with a shared Power Supply and integrated stereo link facilities?  That would be sweet - but probably asking a bit too much (Sounds like an mnats question)

Who makes the 2-1176 chassis pictured in the mnats calibration video?

Full of questions - Ain't I? 

Thanks for your time  8)

 

[Echo North]

It'll be 2 main PCBs in one case with the shared power supply.

I'll know more shortly.

Mike

 

[Stagefright13]

Randyman there are pics of my 2-1176 rev D on page 60 of this thread. Just buy 2 of everything for a rotary build. It's not a real tight fit with the layout I finally decided on for mine. You can use the Mnats power supply board and drop all the onboard PS components. And yes there is room for stereo boards in mine. I just didn't install them yet.

And Mike sells lighted meters for them also.

John

 

[Randyman...]

Thanks for the input.  So instead of using a common Power Transformer with individual on-board PSU's, it makes more sense to add a 5th board (2 main boards, 2 stereo link boards, plus PSU board) as a dedicated PSU and wire the PSU straight to the DC Inputs on the main boards?  Just curious - why is that preferred over using the on-baord PSU sections on each main board with a common transformer (or is that the issue - a common transformer feeding 2 separate PSU circuits)?

I quickly looked at mnats site, and I can't seem to locate the separate PSU PCB and a BOM.  Do you have a link handy by chance?

Also - where can I find correct part numbers for the rotary switches?  I'm assuming I can simply load up two of the Rev D Mouser Carts from Hairball's site, remove the PSU components (add the ones from the dedicated PSU board), add these rotary switches, and I'm off to the races?

What about the Power Transformer?  I'm hoping Mike/Hairball will have a kit w/ a Punched Chassis and an appropriate Mouser Cart all setup soon.  I can wait for a while - I'm still finishing up my Rev A's (and I have the SA3A and SB4000 on the way as well!!!).

FYI - Your pics on page 60 are MIA.  Any chance you can re-post them for reference?  Where did you get your chassis/face?

Thanks for the informative reply!  8)

 

[Stagefright13]

Well the pics ARE on page 60 I just looked at them.
One is here: stagefrightrecords.com/211763.jpg
and: stagefrightrecords.com/21176.JPG

The powesupply docs are on mnats site here: http://mnats.net/psu.html

You can buy transformers here: http://avellindberg.com/transformers/y23_range_specs.htm

I used 50va 30+30 on all my builds. Way overkill but I bought several for cheap. They give a good discount for even 2.

I populated both boards fully and Daisey chained the AC lines. I didn't use the little ps board on this. I already had the parts.
Each board now has it's own power caps and such. The advantage of the little board is a little cost savings.

The rotary switches should be on mnats site for the rotary switch 1176 build. Also a really good wiring how to. Rotary boards already come with your revd boards.
1 LORLIN OR ALPHA 2 POLE 6 POSITION SWITCH S1
1 LORLIN OR ALPHA 4 POLE 3 POSITION SWITCH S2

It's a Parusha chassis.

John

 

[Randyman...]

Cool.  I'll peek at the mnats PSU page and check out the other parts ASAP.  Thanks for the links!!




FYI - I'm still getting the picture placeholder over here:

And the direct links you posted don't work for me, either  ???  Tried adding "www." in front of the links - but still no love in Chrome and IE8 on W7 and XP.  No biggie.  I'll see what else I can dig up.

Fingers crossed on a nice complete kit from Mike / Hairball     You'll have an INSTANT buyer for a kit as long as it shows up sometime soon.  I might get adventurous (should I say overzealous   ) and source the needed parts myself  
8)

 

[narapo]

Hi,

I am finishing the wiring of the 1176 Rev D and I need a confirmation :

- When using a DPST GR bypass on the attack pot, you don't need to connect the BLK, GRN and 22 pads on the Meter PCB
- You connect :
                      - main PCB 22 pad to the common lug of the DPST
                      - Ratio BLK to the OFF lug of the DPST, the main PCB ground and to the chassi ground
                      - Ratio GRN to the ON lug of the DPST

am I right ?