[BUILD] Hairball Audio - Elements

[Indecline]

Two quick things..

Does anyone have the Mouser part # or the brand for the push button switches?  I butchered my kit ones while desoldering them from my old board.

And... I was wondering if any of you guys had interesting ideas for xfr/opamp combos for the next build? 

 

[Echo North]

Two quick things..

Does anyone have the Mouser part # or the brand for the push button switches?  I butchered my kit ones while desoldering them from my old board.

And... I was wondering if any of you guys had interesting ideas for xfr/opamp combos for the next build? 

Those are CIT switches, mouser doesn't stock them (I don't think). We can send you a replacement if you like. Email us.

Mike

 

[Siegfried Meier]

Hey guys,

I'm also trying an EA2622 on input of a silver kit.  I wired it with longer leads since the spacing is too tight, and I placed it so the dot lines up with the dot on the board, but I get no signal...I hear a rushing/hiss sound which I believe is from the BA512 opamp, but I get no signal...

Does the EA2622 work with this board?  Do I have it the wrong way around?

Thanks!
Sig

 

[Echo North]

Hey guys,

I'm also trying an EA2622 on input of a silver kit.  I wired it with longer leads since the spacing is too tight, and I placed it so the dot lines up with the dot on the board, but I get no signal...I hear a rushing/hiss sound which I believe is from the BA512 opamp, but I get no signal...

Does the EA2622 work with this board?  Do I have it the wrong way around?

Thanks!
Sig

Do you have a datasheet for the 2622?

 

[Siegfried Meier]

I just attempted swapping the trafo around, still no signal at all...

http://www.classicapi.com/catalog/images/gallery/2622/2622-specs.pdf

 

[Echo North]

I just attempted swapping the trafo around, still no signal at all...

http://www.classicapi.com/catalog/images/gallery/2622/2622-specs.pdf

You need to line-up the dots.

Check the schematic.
http://library.hairballaudio.com/images/2015/06/hba-elements-pcb-v1-3_schematic-production.pdf

You most likely have a component error.  Like if R503, C501, R506...were empty there would be no signal.  However, if R501 was shorted you'd have no signal.  The Silver is a bit more of an advanced build, you have to be comfortable reading a schematic and determining compensation networks.  Trace the signal and see where it dies. Is it before the op-amp, after the op-amp? Before the output fader, after the fader?

Mike

 

[Siegfried Meier]

Ya, I've built a few of these in the same manner, but this is the first with an EA2622 and the BA512...

Maybe it's just too late, but I can't see any components I might have messed up...the input transformer or the opamp could be faulty.

 

[Echo North]

I don't have time to look over this right now, but you have a cap in C500 but nothing in R500. You need to gave a R or short in 500 to complete that zobel.  Probably not your problem though.  You need to trace the signal, that is the easiest basic thing to figure out where the issue is.  You can stare at the PCB for hours, or take 5 minutes with a DMM and short out where the signal dies.

Bad op-amp> try another one from one of your other kits.  The transformer pinout is fine. Think it's damaged? Tracing the signal will tell you that.

Good luck!

Thanks,

Mike

 

[jtn191]

Hi
I'm getting a faint hum with no increase in volume when gain or output are increased.  48V light works...durring the build, I did have a LOT of difficulty getting the pad for C505 to solder...I very well may have charred that cap. You can see it's darkened in the picture. I'll go over my build a few more times. Thanks!

http://i.imgur.com/UbbKwE5.jpg

*edit I put a jumper in for R606 and now I'm getting a constant "crickets at night" sound that gets louder as I turn the output up. Still no signal...something tells me it's that crispy cap

 

[Echo North]

Hi
I'm getting a faint hum with no increase in volume when gain or output are increased.  48V light works...durring the build, I did have a LOT of difficulty getting the pad for C505 to solder...I very well may have charred that cap. You can see it's darkened in the picture. I'll go over my build a few more times. Thanks!

http://i.imgur.com/UbbKwE5.jpg

*edit I put a jumper in for R606 and now I'm getting a constant "crickets at night" sound that gets louder as I turn the output up. Still no signal...something tells me it's that crispy cap

Hard to say.  Do through all the components carefully and make sure you shorts and omits are correct.  Look for cold joints or missed joints.

Mike

 

[jtn191]

I was all ready to buy a replacement cap...but hadn't plugged in a mic yet. My sm57 works fine! I guess it's just a DI issue

 

[Echo North]

I was all ready to buy a replacement cap...but hadn't plugged in a mic yet. My sm57 works fine! I guess it's just a DI issue

Phantom mic ok?

 

[jtn191]

Phantom mic ok?

yeah phantom works...just put the whole thing through it's paces. Strangely enough, the only problems are the DI doesn't work and the gain switch doesn't seem to be doing anything. As I go through the whole range, the gain stays uniform. Looking at the schem, a faulty C505 may be the culprit to the gain switch.

 

[Echo North]

Phantom mic ok?

yeah phantom works...just put the whole thing through it's paces. Strangely enough, the only problems are the DI doesn't work and the gain switch doesn't seem to be doing anything. As I go through the whole range, the gain stays uniform. Looking at the schem, a faulty C505 may be the culprit to the gain switch.

Or a short (or missed solder) on the gain switch itself. 

 

[Sparqee]

One of my two bronz's has suddenly stopped passing audio from the back plane.  That is to say; if I use the front panel DI input it works fine but audio routed in from my rack does not pass.  I double checked my rack slot with a different 500 unit and the rack is fine.

Any suggestions on where to start trouble shooting my Bronz?

Thanks,

 

[Echo North]

One of my two bronz's has suddenly stopped passing audio from the back plane.  That is to say; if I use the front panel DI input it works fine but audio routed in from my rack does not pass.  I double checked my rack slot with a different 500 unit and the rack is fine.

Any suggestions on where to start trouble shooting my Bronz?

Thanks,

If you're DI works fine, but the rear XLR does not, it's certainly a relay flipping issue.

The relay is set to DI in it's "normal" mode. Meaning with no power it's just stuck in DI mode. Make sure all 8 pins on the DI are soldered, including the 2 that are separated from the other 6. Those are the power supply pins.  If that's fine I would suspect the transistor maybe failed.

Send us an email and we can ship you some parts.

Mike

 

[Sparqee]

One of my two bronz's has suddenly stopped passing audio from the back plane.  That is to say; if I use the front panel DI input it works fine but audio routed in from my rack does not pass.  I double checked my rack slot with a different 500 unit and the rack is fine.

Any suggestions on where to start trouble shooting my Bronz?

Thanks,

If you're DI works fine, but the rear XLR does not, it's certainly a relay flipping issue.

The relay is set to DI in it's "normal" mode. Meaning with no power it's just stuck in DI mode. Make sure all 8 pins on the DI are soldered, including the 2 that are separated from the other 6. Those are the power supply pins.  If that's fine I would suspect the transistor maybe failed.

Send us an email and we can ship you some parts.

Mike

Email sent. Thanks.

 

[Johnnigrah]

Hey guys!
My entire build works great, except for the +48V button and the LED.
The signal comes through fine with a dynamic mic, but with a condenser there is no signal, regardless of if the phantom power button is pressed or not.
I've already tried the different cables/different mics deal, so it has to be something with the electronics.

Thanks!

 

[Echo North]

Hey guys!
My entire build works great, except for the +48V button and the LED.
The signal comes through fine with a dynamic mic, but with a condenser there is no signal, regardless of if the phantom power button is pressed or not.
I've already tried the different cables/different mics deal, so it has to be something with the electronics.

Thanks!

What unit do you have? Copper, Bronze, or Gold?

Mike

 

[Johnnigrah]

Oops my bad for not specifying. I have the copper kit

Hey guys!
My entire build works great, except for the +48V button and the LED.
The signal comes through fine with a dynamic mic, but with a condenser there is no signal, regardless of if the phantom power button is pressed or not.
I've already tried the different cables/different mics deal, so it has to be something with the electronics.

Thanks!

What unit do you have? Copper, Bronze, or Gold?

Mike