Build Thread:PQD2

[Gustav]

This project was based off Gyraf's PeQ DIY version. I just doubled the amount of channels run off the same supply and controlled everything using PCB mount/off the shelf Lorlins so it would be a breeze to build it.

https://www.pcbgrinder.com/produktside/pq2

Ill be happy to help with any build issues  - if I can!?

Gustav

 

[hymere]

Hi Gustav, i would originaly make a Heater, to use it in tube DI. But i told me, that's  the output stage of the PQD2!!
If i make a full PQD2,  can i use it in DI application? I can add a other input after the EQ section or use it with the original input??
Because the output transfo symmetrizes the signal, is'nt it?

Thank's and sorry for my English..

 

[Gustav]

Hi Gustav, i would originaly make a Heater, to use it in tube DI. But i told me, that's  the output stage of the PQD2!!
If i make a full PQD2,  can i use it in DI application? I can add a other input after the EQ section or use it with the original input??
Because the output transfo symmetrizes the signal, is'nt it?

Thank's and sorry for my English..

Hi hymere.

The tube gainstage may be the same, but then again, its not. There were subtle changes made to the HEATER to accommodate the instrument level inputs. Also, we are going straight to the "heart" of the gain stage with the HEATER circuit. This will not be the case  if you try to use the PQD2 in the same type of application, and it may render the input attenuation a mess if you try it (I haven't tried it)

I would build the heater if I needed a DI/line driver/gainstage for a summing box? an extra 20dB of gain for something etc.
I would build the PQD2 if I needed a stereo, passive EQ with detented controls and a great sounding tube, gain stage

Gustav

 

[drivebystudios]

How is everyone finding the mastering version?
Are the 12 step increments ok??

 

[Gustav]

How is everyone finding the mastering version?
Are the 12 step increments ok??

11 step...

If you have something specific you'd like to know, I would be happy to try and help. Ill stay away from the more subjective evaluation of it

Gustav

 

[madsimilius]

Today i started on a kit i resently bought from Gustav.
The pqd2 is my first real diy project except moding and car electronics. 
I won't get shocked and set fire to my home i promise I'll get someone to look over it before i fire it up.
Until now i have managed to sort out where every thing goes as the pcb is marked well, except the resistors that lies around the pots. They are marked a1,a2,a3,a4,a5,a6,a7,a8,a9,a10 around one pot and b1,b2,b3,b4,b5,b6,b7,b8,b9,b10 around the next, and so on.  how do i understand what resistor goes where here? 

 

[Gustav]

Today i started on a kit i resently bought from Gustav.
The pqd2 is my first real diy project except moding and car electronics. 
I won't get shocked and set fire to my home i promise I'll get someone to look over it before i fire it up.
Until now i have managed to sort out where every thing goes as the pcb is marked well, except the resistors that lies around the pots. They are marked a1,a2,a3,a4,a5,a6,a7,a8,a9,a10 around one pot and b1,b2,b3,b4,b5,b6,b7,b8,b9,b10 around the next, and so on.  how do i understand what resistor goes where here?

Here you go (Should also be on the kit page. If you dont see it, hit refresh).

pcbgrinder.com/download/PQD2/PQD2switches-kit.xlsx

Gustav

 

[madsimilius]

I didn't see it actualy Maby because it was under the project discussion link?
Anyhow thank you !

 

[madsimilius]

The pcbs

 

[madsimilius]

Temporary front panel made with an angle grinder and a drill .

 

[madsimilius]

I need help with wiring my toroidal, fuse, iec, power switch and ground. (230v)

On the toroidal it says: Prime 1 orange - yellow 0-115v, Prime 2 orange - yellow 0-115v,
                                                  Sec 1 white - black 230V/35mA,  Sec 2 blue - green 9V2A

One of the orange and one of the yellow wires have a piece of black heat shrink tubing on them. (for marking i guess)

I guess the blue and green and the black and white goes to the pcb. on the pcb it only says 250vac 1 and 2 and 9vac 1 and 2, how do i know which goes to 1 and which goes to 2?
Do i wire anything  from the ground point on the pcb ?chassie?  and do i wire anything to the 6.3v ?
Actually if anyone could explain to me how to wire the iec, toroidal, fuse, power switch and ground so that i'm sure  it would help me alot !

 

[Gustav]

I need help with wiring my toroidal, fuse, iec, power switch and ground. (230v)

On the toroidal it says: Prime 1 orange - yellow 0-115v, Prime 2 orange - yellow 0-115v,
                                                  Sec 1 white - black 230V/35mA,  Sec 2 blue - green 9V2A

One of the orange and one of the yellow wires have a piece of black heat shrink tubing on them. (for marking i guess)

The primaries are orange/yellow pairs. One pair has the black tape marking, the other doesnt. You should wire them in series for 220/230V mains. (Tip, when in doubt, you could have used your meter to see which wires are pairs)

I guess the blue and green and the black and white goes to the pcb. on the pcb it only says 250vac 1 and 2 and 9vac 1 and 2, how do i know which goes to 1 and which goes to 2?

Does it matter whats 1 and whats 2 when its AC?

Do i wire anything  from the ground point on the pcb ?chassie?  and do i wire anything to the 6.3v ?
Actually if anyone could explain to me how to wire the iec, toroidal, fuse, power switch and ground so that i'm sure  it would help me alot !

The reason why I didn't post a wire guide for this for tube project is because I think its dangerous to mess with these high voltage projects without knowing something as basic  as mains/fuse wiring (I also stated this on the site). I would recommend you to find someone local to help you out in person.  Things can get confused in writing, and I dont want to see you get hurt.

I mean this is the nicest way with all care for your safety: I think youre nuts for building this. Be really carefull, measure everything twice, make sure the supply caps are drained when you work on it etc.

Gustav

 

[guilds100]

Im starting to put the rotary switches into my pqd2 when I noticed the low freq, high freq, and attenuation switches have an extra center hole. Are these 1x12 like the bill of materials listed or are they 2x6?

 

[Gustav]

Im starting to put the rotary switches into my pqd2 when I noticed the low freq, high freq, and attenuation switches have an extra center hole. Are these 1x12 like the bill of materials listed or are they 2x6?

The frequencies are 2x6.

Updated the BOM

Gustav

 

[bacbacou]

hello,
I am going  to build to a PQD2, I see on the BOM  :
"16  pcs 1x12   lorlin   switch"

could you confirm if these one's are ok :

http://www.mouser.fr/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=CK1059virtualkey12200000virtualkey10SM159

and, how to use your switch calculator ? I open it, see two examples with 10K and 100K log, but what about 1K/2,2K ans 10K lin ?


Richard

 

[Gustav]

hello,
I am going  to build to a PQD2, I see on the BOM  :
"16  pcs 1x12   lorlin   switch"

Check the post just above yours re:BOM correction.

could you confirm if these one's are ok :

http://www.mouser.fr/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=CK1059virtualkey12200000virtualkey10SM159

I can never "confirm" (I make mistakes myself when buying parts, and some parts are described in confusing ways at some vendors to me), but I can share a guess.

I am not sure why the "terminal" style is written as "terminal". I would assume that means the switches have solder eyes/are not PCB mountable, but in mounting style, it says through hole, and the part name has PCB in it.

So - not 100% sure.

D-shaft wouldn't be my first choice either, but thats more of a mechanical issue.

and, how to use your switch calculator ? I open it, see two examples with 10K and 100K log, but what about 1K/2,2K ans 10K lin ?


Richard

The linear pots are linear, so the values going around the switch are linear (They have their own fields in the bottom of the switch sheet. Hope it makes sense).

Theres no "correct way" to use the calculator. I just did the PDF to make sure the values add up to the necessary total if you change some values around. You may want to switch it up a little to create a graph you like better etc. 

Just use the values it opens up with if you're in doubt.

Hope that helps

Gustav

 

[bacbacou]

thank you Gustav !

 

[Eddy.L]

HI !
I bought a light for the on/off which works with 6.3V can I wire it between the 6.3V and Ground spots on the pcb ?
Will there be enough Ampers for the two tubes ? And I changed the value of the 1.8K resistor for 1.9K and I'm closer to 6.3V now is it okay ? And last question how do I chose between the value that you gave for the drop resistor ?

Thank you !

 

[Gustav]

HI !
I bought a light for the on/off which works with 6.3V can I wire it between the 6.3V and Ground spots on the pcb ?
Will there be enough Ampers for the two tubes ? And I changed the value of the 1.8K resistor for 1.9K and I'm closer to 6.3V now is it okay ? And last question how do I chose between the value that you gave for the drop resistor ?

Thank you !

I would draw the 6.3V from the secondary on the trafo with a drop resistor. The lamp will work with your method, though.

1K9 is fine, 1K8 was fine as well.

The value for the drop resistor - try one, check the voltage, adjust up or down in size.

Hope that helps

Gustav

 

[Eddy.L]

Ok thank you ! I failed calculating the correct drop voltage resistor I have 6.3V to the lamp but don't have enough Ampers... But I know why.... And I don't understand how the drop resistor is related to the 6.3V  that seems to be the output of the LM317 ? But I don't know if you have the time to explain me that.

Thank you !

PS : last question... In the case that I bought there was already a switch with the IE Socket and I have wired it, is it a problem if wire a second switch  at the primary thoroidal transformer ?