Bypass relay PCB: available

[Igor]

Yep, looks like pair of 12v relays... Diode... Where did you found this porn puppy?
Now seriously. Determine what power supply you can use for relays.
Say, you have "original hot tube sound GyraPultec" with 12.6V on heaters - cool, use than 12v relays, coils in parallel or 5v relays, coils in series;
in case it is GSSL, use voltage before 7815/7915 (right from big caps after rectifier) and 24v relays, coils connected in series; etc etc.
First think than do. Relays - tones of non-latching, dpdt, dip-16 type
can be found at Mouser/Farnell/Digikey etc. Higher the coil resistance, easier for your power supply.

 

[germoju]

I dont understand where to put my bypass switch and my led...

 

[germoju]

I dont understand where to put my bypass switch and my led...

i got the black one... dont have the holes for bypass switch, RLED, Vrelay etc.. ???

 

[audiophreak]

Hi,
    I got a few of these from the BlackMarket, populated and installed, all ok - but I will only be using the bypass for comparison , if i dont like what I hear, I'll just unpatch the piece of gear from the signal chain.
  My question is how / can I hook these up so the relay is NOT energized when unit is IN and energized when in BYPASS ?

  ... sorry if this is simple , I just cant seem to wrap my head around it  :

  Thanks,
              Chip

 

[CJ]

if it is a form C relay you can flip the outside leads and flip the power sw leads,

this board could be expanded to have maybe a phase reverse option,
and maybe a mute option but that might be pushin it,

the switch that is, you would push the sw to mute,

can i get fries with that?  :-*

 

[audiophreak]

.. ok .. so this might be another big DUHHH moment for me ...

    do I just connect the In and Out XLRs  to the " to and from unit " on the bypass PCB , and connect the to and from unit cables  to the In and Out XLR connections on the Bypass PCB ???


thanks CJ

 

[kosty]

Is someone offering these or similar Bypass PCBs at the moment ?

 

[StaticRick]

Is someone offering these or similar Bypass PCBs at the moment ?

I'm curious too.  Looks like Igor and SilentArts are both out.

 

[gswan]

I did a similar design as well, which is used in a number of my projects.
http://www.axtsystems.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=91:abm1audiobypass&catid=53:amb1bypassmodule&Itemid=86

 

[Siegfried Meier]

Hey guys,

I don't understand how the 3 pin connector marked switch on the PCB attaches to an EAO switch...can anyone help me out with wiring here?

Thanks!
Sig

 

[Ptownkid]

How many pins does that switch have? Looking at the schematic for the pcb, pins 1&2 are the actual switch contacts and pin three is the LED ground connection.

 

[Siegfried Meier]

Hmmm ok let me check into that.

Regarding CZ, RZ and RL, what do you do with those if not using any components?  Jumper them or leave them out?  I'll admit, I'm confused about what to do there.  Trying to use these boards in a mastering insert switcher manner, so the gear that's attached is all different types, some trafo based and some electronically balanced.

Edit - so I guess I was wrong with my voltage, but the board clearly needs both +12V and -12V if using a 12V relay.  I don't understand what to join as far as those parallel/serial pads.  Also, where does the + voltage for the switch LED go?  If I connect 1.8V directly from the PSU, then the LED stays on all the time, regardless of the switch position.  I'm obviously not doing that right...

I'm using these switches now:

http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=KB16SKW01-5C-JC-ROvirtualkey63300000virtualkey633-16SKW015CJC-RO

Anyone?

Thanks,
Sig

 

[Siegfried Meier]

OK!  I have learned much, but many more questions arise...

1. The + of the LED insert switch go back to the switch, and then it works perfectly - lit up when pushed in/on.  I still measure 12v there, but it must be a current thing as to why the bulb doesn't blow - the bulb states 1.8V.

2. I guess I was confused as to which was the main audio input/output path since I'm kinda using these boards backwards from their intended use, but I was able to swap it and have now got audio going through, AND, an insert patched in (EQ) and it works exactly as it should.  This is good.

3. I did not add CZ, RZ and RL - audio still passes through - and I set up the relays in parallel (no idea why, it was just a guess).  However, I have about a 10dB loss from input to output.  Should I be adding something to those missing components to eliminate this, or should I be running the relays in series mode?  I would think those components have only to do with the piece of gear that's patched in, and I'm getting this loss before I even insert...

Any help much appreciated!
Thanks,
Sig

 

[Siegfried Meier]

Alright, some more progress.

I swapped out the RLED value, thinking it was affecting this signal drop.  I wanted to drop it down so that the LED wasn't quite so bright, hoping it would lengthen the life of the LED.  But, after I started to wonder if that was doing it.  After checking my connections, I've confirmed the LED makes absolutely no difference (so I'll keep a higher value there to save the LED life) but the drop is exactly 6dB.

Is this normal? I mean, big deal - as long as it's a normal drop, and doesn't affect the signal integrity.  In a mastering scenario, boosts and gains of other gear will certainly boost the levels anyway.  It just seems odd, as I figured a bypass board like this would simply pass unity gain.  My fear is now that if I use 10 of these in an insert switcher, will it be 6 dB x 10 of  a loss...?

Also, I changed it from parallel to series and it made no difference...I still don't know what that is...

Judging by the lack of info and replies here, I'm guessing hardly anyone ever bought or used these before...looks like I'm in some new chartered land here hehe.

Sig

EDIT - I'm convinced after spending the last 2 days with these that they won't work for my intended purpose.  Perhaps they work great as a regular bypass board in a piece of gear, but using them passively in a mastering scenario...forget it!!

 

[thomasdf]

Is that PCB still available? Where can I find it?

 

[Shteff]

i will ask the same

 

[gswan]

I did a bypass module which is similar. Maybe some of the diagrams can help you out?

https://axtsystems.com/joomla31/index.php/projects/20-cat-audio-bypass-and-changeover-modules/22-art-audio-bypass-module

 

[ungifted]

I have some similar in stock. Single side PCB for selfetching is in the project docs (will update fixed version soon, fixed PCBs available now too).
http://diy-tubes.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=283

 

[Jtransition]

Alright, some more progress.

I swapped out the RLED value, thinking it was affecting this signal drop.  I wanted to drop it down so that the LED wasn't quite so bright, hoping it would lengthen the life of the LED.  But, after I started to wonder if that was doing it.  After checking my connections, I've confirmed the LED makes absolutely no difference (so I'll keep a higher value there to save the LED life) but the drop is exactly 6dB.

Is this normal? I mean, big deal - as long as it's a normal drop, and doesn't affect the signal integrity.  In a mastering scenario, boosts and gains of other gear will certainly boost the levels anyway.  It just seems odd, as I figured a bypass board like this would simply pass unity gain.  My fear is now that if I use 10 of these in an insert switcher, will it be 6 dB x 10 of  a loss...?

Also, I changed it from parallel to series and it made no difference...I still don't know what that is...

Judging by the lack of info and replies here, I'm guessing hardly anyone ever bought or used these before...looks like I'm in some new chartered land here hehe.

Sig

EDIT - I'm convinced after spending the last 2 days with these that they won't work for my intended purpose.  Perhaps they work great as a regular bypass board in a piece of gear, but using them passively in a mastering scenario...forget it!!

Did you ever got one of these working?
I have a few that I bought on a whim a  few years ago.....

 

[MiamiBoy]

Are these kits still available ? I need true bypass for GSSL