Seems like a good device, but the datasheet I found was marked end of life.use a NJM2396F63
Seems like a good device, but the datasheet I found was marked end of life.use a NJM2396F63
Still come up on an eBay search. All Chinese though, are they counterfeit?Seems like a good device, but the datasheet I found was marked end of life.
They’re usually cheap enough to buy and try - full load voltage test with varying input voltages to dropout will soon show dodgy ones. There’s no formula for spotting fakes.
Well, that does bring me to another question, now that you mention it. Why do we use 6.3VDC, when it's spec'd for 6.3VAC? Isn't the relative energy of DC much higher than the energy of AC? Meaning we get the same amount of heat with lower DC voltage than is required for AC?Couldn’t hurt to have a regulator that gives exactly 6.3V DC after the buck converter rather than 6V. This system certainly covers any changes to mains voltage that could cause dropout or overheating. I’d be looking at a heatsink for the regulator regardless.
AC RMS = Heating value = DCWell, that does bring me to another question, now that you mention it. Why do we use 6.3VDC, when it's spec'd for 6.3VAC? Isn't the relative energy of DC much higher than the energy of AC? Meaning we get the same amount of heat with lower DC voltage than is required for AC?
*facepalm... my AC meter is reading RMS. Your answer was exactly what I was looking for though, thank you.AC RMS = Heating value = DC
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