JesusTossas
New member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2017
- Messages
- 2
Its there a store to buy the PCB? I would like to build it. Or at least get the layout and get the pcb done in a local shop.
DIY equalizer based on Studer 169 (standard and mastering)
- Thread starter audiox
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
rmaier
Well-known member
Here you go:
https://pcbgrinder.com/Studer-169
https://pcbgrinder.com/Studer-169
ForthMonkey
Well-known member
Anyone has front panel design for this PCB design?
Potato Cakes
Well-known member
Frank Does. For 500 series.
https://www.frontpanels.de/miscellaneous-frontpanels/studer-169-eq/
Thanks!
Paul
https://www.frontpanels.de/miscellaneous-frontpanels/studer-169-eq/
Thanks!
Paul
ForthMonkey
Well-known member
Potato Cakes said:
Thanks but i need original version for rack case.I believe i should do my own...
SIXTYNINER
Well-known member
Hi ,
no chances for insert "bell" option at least for mid low and mid hi frequency range ?
also in out transformers option as well ?
no chances for insert "bell" option at least for mid low and mid hi frequency range ?
also in out transformers option as well ?
RR25
Member
Hi everyone,
I've decided to use this project as my first venture into building something a little more in-depth than a kit (baby steps haha) Everything makes sense on the schematic except the polarity of the inputs to the opamps. My understanding so far is that U2A (NE5532) is the un-balancing stage so I understand why the cold input routes to ground via C20 and R30, but I'm not understanding why the cold input then connects to the non-inverting input of the NE5532. Would this not mean the signal travelling through the rest of the circuit would be reverse polarity?
Any help would be very much appreciated, thanks in Advance!
I've decided to use this project as my first venture into building something a little more in-depth than a kit (baby steps haha) Everything makes sense on the schematic except the polarity of the inputs to the opamps. My understanding so far is that U2A (NE5532) is the un-balancing stage so I understand why the cold input routes to ground via C20 and R30, but I'm not understanding why the cold input then connects to the non-inverting input of the NE5532. Would this not mean the signal travelling through the rest of the circuit would be reverse polarity?
Any help would be very much appreciated, thanks in Advance!
dmp
Well-known member
U2A is a differential amplifier. If you read about a differential amplifier I think it will make sense.
U1 is also an inverting amplifier so the polarity out is the same as in.
U1 is also an inverting amplifier so the polarity out is the same as in.
RR25
Member
Thanks for the reply dmp! I've done some reading on different opamp implementations and it's all much clearer now!
RR25
Member
I finished building today and although it passes signal, I'm measuring 134mV of DC offset on the outputs (which I'm assuming is way higher than acceptable) When I probed around the board I found the offset to be coming from the output of the NE5534. I've triple checked that all components are the correct values. Does anyone have any tips on narrowing down the cause of this? Thanks
oran.outan
Well-known member
Hi All
long Story short... As I like the 169 eq, I look into that one and adapt it to fit 500 series Size...
I haven't made something fancy, I just copy Audiox Schematic and 'resize' it for 500... Probably not the prettiest design but after a 1st built it appear to work ! I have nothing for run technical tests and not original build for running comparison but seems to work ok !
but one think come to my ear, that I get a small 'click' when I reach the last Step position, on Low gain... maybe others could tell me if that happen on the original one's !? that 'clip' happen only on that step move...
Build is in 2 boards, and need a Edge connector... for now It come that way... Resistors are standing up on back of the front PCB, Switch's on the other side... I have do that way to keep the build easy without too many cable to connect between boards, and not so much space there !!! I've add an optional transformer input (Neutrik NTL-1) but I haven't yet test it...
A Bypass Switch can be set... but it's a bit tricky: cable have to be solder on the toggle switch pins to reach the 2nd board... I haven't find other way, not any space on the board for better option... I used a Switch I have home, size is good but I will recommend with a longer bat, the one I used, with the bracket and 3mm front panel, is a bit too short...
Components and Values stay same as Audiox documents... I have keep the reference too (R1 is still R1)...
for finish, I'd don't really know what's rules are... but if people are interested on and if @audiox is OK i could share the file, like the gerber and others document I have (mostly frontpanel/drill and BOM)...
Some pictures...
long Story short... As I like the 169 eq, I look into that one and adapt it to fit 500 series Size...
I haven't made something fancy, I just copy Audiox Schematic and 'resize' it for 500... Probably not the prettiest design but after a 1st built it appear to work ! I have nothing for run technical tests and not original build for running comparison but seems to work ok !
but one think come to my ear, that I get a small 'click' when I reach the last Step position, on Low gain... maybe others could tell me if that happen on the original one's !? that 'clip' happen only on that step move...
Build is in 2 boards, and need a Edge connector... for now It come that way... Resistors are standing up on back of the front PCB, Switch's on the other side... I have do that way to keep the build easy without too many cable to connect between boards, and not so much space there !!! I've add an optional transformer input (Neutrik NTL-1) but I haven't yet test it...
A Bypass Switch can be set... but it's a bit tricky: cable have to be solder on the toggle switch pins to reach the 2nd board... I haven't find other way, not any space on the board for better option... I used a Switch I have home, size is good but I will recommend with a longer bat, the one I used, with the bracket and 3mm front panel, is a bit too short...
Components and Values stay same as Audiox documents... I have keep the reference too (R1 is still R1)...
for finish, I'd don't really know what's rules are... but if people are interested on and if @audiox is OK i could share the file, like the gerber and others document I have (mostly frontpanel/drill and BOM)...
Some pictures...
Attachments
Last edited:
MidnightArrakis
Well-known member
I'm -- WAY LATE -- to this party, but you can see if any of these off-the-shelf 1U rack-chassis fits your needs:
https://www.metcaseusa.com/en/Metal....htm?ref=416b8270-69b5-11e5-ab58-bc764e20b40e
https://www.metcaseusa.com/en/Mettec-19-/M5910015.htm?ref=416b8270-69b5-11e5-ab58-bc764e20b40e
https://www.metcaseusa.com/en/Combimet-19-/M6219119.htm?ref=416b8270-69b5-11e5-ab58-bc764e20b40e
In addition, should you ever need any custom-designed rack-chassis or front-panels or any custom-designed PCB's.....just ask me, OK??? That's what I do!!!
/
johnchantler
Well-known member
3U 500 series looks nice and compact.
I finally finished building 10 units into a 5U panel... 8 with 3dB gain steps on DB25 connectors and two channels with the smaller 'mastering' steps on XLR.
I finally finished building 10 units into a 5U panel... 8 with 3dB gain steps on DB25 connectors and two channels with the smaller 'mastering' steps on XLR.
TwentyTrees
Well-known member
Wow! That's a serious piece of work, looks absolutely fantastic. Congrats!
johnchantler
Well-known member
Thank you @TwentyTrees.
I should add that this is powered with Oakley RPSU boards (Oakley Sound Rack Power Supply Unit - RPSU) fed with a Yamaha PA 30 (external AC brick) which provides plenty of juice... Would be nice to find a better way of distributing the power to multiple modules for this kind of thing (e.g. one of the next jobs is 10 of the Harrison Ford Filters...)
I should add that this is powered with Oakley RPSU boards (Oakley Sound Rack Power Supply Unit - RPSU) fed with a Yamaha PA 30 (external AC brick) which provides plenty of juice... Would be nice to find a better way of distributing the power to multiple modules for this kind of thing (e.g. one of the next jobs is 10 of the Harrison Ford Filters...)
oran.outan
Well-known member
Hi
Does any one have been in contact with Audiox recently ? few weeks I sent him a message but haven't get any response...
I finally made that !
Does any one have been in contact with Audiox recently ? few weeks I sent him a message but haven't get any response...
I finally made that !
oran.outan
Well-known member
Hi
I get news from Audiox and he's Ok that I sell the board I made...
So related to the post above, I have 3 board left If some are interested ? I could make others if come some interest.
I can provide BOM I used and frontpanel file that you can edit to your taste (.fpd file)
You need a L-Bracket.
build is easy, just the bypass switch wiring has to be made carefully for going on the good way. Switch need to have a long bat.
build is related to the original, so you can make standard or Mastering version, change frequencies... it's basically a 500 series revision.
10€ each + shipping. I will say only in EU.
I'm not a company, I can't provide an invoice or anything...
If any question, PM me...
best
0-0
I get news from Audiox and he's Ok that I sell the board I made...
So related to the post above, I have 3 board left If some are interested ? I could make others if come some interest.
I can provide BOM I used and frontpanel file that you can edit to your taste (.fpd file)
You need a L-Bracket.
build is easy, just the bypass switch wiring has to be made carefully for going on the good way. Switch need to have a long bat.
build is related to the original, so you can make standard or Mastering version, change frequencies... it's basically a 500 series revision.
10€ each + shipping. I will say only in EU.
I'm not a company, I can't provide an invoice or anything...
If any question, PM me...
best
0-0
