Very nice design,
what software do you use for the 3D drawing?
Thanks
I use EasyEDA for PCB design. (The 3D visualization is an integrated part of it). It is quite good, easy to learn and pretty powerful. It is very open for existing component, footprint and 3d model libraries. It is a full range application for PCB design and production and you can operate it online or local. You can adjust it quite good to your needs. I use it only for my self etching projects but you can export production ready files (eg. Gerbers).Very nice design,
what software do you use for the 3D drawing?
Thanks
I use EasyEDA for PCB design. (The 3D visualization is an integrated part of it). It is quite good, easy to learn and pretty powerful. It is very open for existing component, footprint and 3d model libraries. It is a full range application for PCB design and production and you can operate it online or local. You can adjust it quite good to your needs. I use it only for my self etching projects but you can export production ready files (eg. Gerbers).
The best thing is, it is for free!
https://easyeda.com/
What are the EasyEDA search terms used when searching for the vacuum-tube socket 3D models? As an example, when I did a search for a 12AX7, the 3D model that showed up included -- BOTH -- a tube socket -- AND -- a tube!!! I couldn't merely find -- ONLY -- a tube socket. How is that done in EasyEDA?Disclaimer: I am not an experienced PCB designer, maybe one step ahead of you!
I don't use ground planes for tube circuits, I prefer ultra fat traces up to 3mm and solderpads for the big components with a diameter up to 4,5mm.
Here as an example a project of mine. A headphone amp called Schwarzwald, as an idea how I do it. There are certainly better PCB designers, I find the SilentArts PCBs for example very well designed.
View attachment 89095
View attachment 89096
PS: the filaments were freely wired here for flexibility reasons. Regarding the part sizes: I always print out my layout on paper first and check if my parts fit before I go ahead. My designs are always one sided, because I am "self etcher"
The model I use is named Valve_Noval-B9A_Dongxin-GZC9-B_Socket, so the keywords a "valve" "socket" "B9a".What are the EasyEDA search terms used when searching for the vacuum-tube socket 3D models? As an example, when I did a search for a 12AX7, the 3D model that showed up included -- BOTH -- a tube socket -- AND -- a tube!!! I couldn't merely find -- ONLY -- a tube socket. How is that done in EasyEDA?
THANKS!!!
/
>> A BIG AND HEARTY "THANKS SO MUCH!!" << I really appreciate that very much!!! THANKS!!!The model I use is named Valve_Noval-B9A_Dongxin-GZC9-B_Socket, so the keywords a "valve" "socket" "B9a".
Basically, you can link any model (even external DXF files) to any footprint. In the modelmanger you have the possibility to adjust the position and size dimensions of the model. Very handy but unfortunately you can't modify the color, Render and texture properties. AKAIK this is only possible externally in a 3D program like Blender, 3dMAX or Maya.
PS: Sorry @RSRecords for derailing your thread!![]()
Probably went a little over kill with 2watt resistors pretty much everywhere but I’ve seen that in some vintage gates stuff
Good idea. I would try 100k pot plus 25k fixed resistor. You will hear the biggest difference if you turn off the feedback completely.My plan is to make the feedback currently R1 adjustable. I plan to experiment but any starting places? 10k pot with a 47k fixed or could I get away with something more drastic
edit: wait those values don’t make sense really. Maybe 50k pot and 30k fixed
Went with carbon comp where I could and 1/2w metal film where I couldn't.....because 2W carbon has lower noise than 1/2W for the same current, and keeps it over time more as the resistor absorbs humidity. Metal film? 1/2W.
OK cool, I'll start there. I plan to use a 23 position switch I have laying around so maybe that last step will be no fdbk. Or very little.Good idea. I would try 100k pot plus 25k fixed resistor. You will hear the biggest difference if you turn off the feedback completely.
I wonder about C4. Somehow this guy seems obsolete to me, since the tap for feedback is behind C3 with the same capacity.I think I understand this arrangement now. ;-)
I think a 23 position switch is overkill. As I said, I would start with a potentiometer and see which values make sense for me. With my build it was a total of 4 switch positions. More, original, less and no negative feedback. Where the last switch position is the most important for me. Of course, the whole depends on the purpose and taste. Let your ears decide.cool, I'll start there. I plan to use a 23 position switch I have laying around so maybe that last step will be no fdbk. Or very little.
This gets brought up every couple of years or so around here, but It probably doesn’t hurt to reinforce it now and then.Went with carbon comp where I could and 1/2w metal film where I couldn't.
This gets brought up every couple of years or so around here, but It probably doesn’t hurt to reinforce it now and then.
Even if you’re one of us who try to stick to original parts where it matters in vintage designs, there’s zero benefit and actually good reason to avoid using carbon comp resistors anywhere but at the tube plates in small signal applications. There has to be sufficient voltage across the resistor to generate second the harmonic distortion that justifies their use. Use them anywhere else, and you’re just adding drift over time and potentially added noise (depending on where else you use them) for no audible benefit.
(It’s different with large signals, as in guitar amps (which are so noisy that some additional noise doesn’t matter anyway from a purely sonic perspective), where output stage grids and the stage immediately before the phase inverter have enough voltage potential to justify their use.)
See attachment for more detail.