yep, super easy.
EQN build thread
- Thread starter peter purpose
- Start date
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jrowell
Well-known member
Thanks so much Dan for your confirmation and assistance to other members.
I am happy that it seems to be working so well.
Thanks again guys,
James Rowell
Sound Service Electronics
I am happy that it seems to be working so well.
Thanks again guys,
James Rowell
Sound Service Electronics
yes
jrowell
Well-known member
Hi Guys,
We should probably stop calling it a mod.
That implies we are changing something to overcome an inherent deficiency.
This is a missing connection fix. We are putting in something that should be there and is on originals.
Very complex to put all this in a 500 format and I have worked in lots of big console modules that have a lot of cut traces and forests of jumpers from the factory.
Even the big N.
Let's call it 'the James fix'
Cheers guys,
James Rowell
Sound Service Electronics
We should probably stop calling it a mod.
That implies we are changing something to overcome an inherent deficiency.
This is a missing connection fix. We are putting in something that should be there and is on originals.
Very complex to put all this in a 500 format and I have worked in lots of big console modules that have a lot of cut traces and forests of jumpers from the factory.
Even the big N.
Let's call it 'the James fix'
Cheers guys,
James Rowell
Sound Service Electronics
Dan, did you have to re-calibrate your unit??dandeurloo said:
When you calibrated your unit originally, did you do the normal calibration process that Peter mentioned prior to doing the mod. I wanna know if you followed Peter's original calibration, cause I did, and if you did not have to re-calibrate your unit after doing the mod, then I would not have to either : )
Thanks mate
No I didn't re cal it. It really is a 10 min fix. It takes more time to take the knobs off then anything else.
whomper
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2011
- Messages
- 121
Am missing 1-2 BC184 for TR1 and TR2. has anyone replaced them successfully with modern components? Will a BC547/549/550C work there?
Have two of those, first one complete BC184. If I want to use them in a pair, will it make a difference that one might have a replacement tranny?
Have two of those, first one complete BC184. If I want to use them in a pair, will it make a difference that one might have a replacement tranny?
jplebre
Well-known member
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- Nov 3, 2012
- Messages
- 617
Man, this one is a pretty fun build!
Quick question, on Mnats notes, he wired the screen to the carnhill screw.
I am not using a bracket, instead, mounting directly on the PCB (2 screws provided). The screw socket tests continuity to the goldfinger, so does the "SCREEN" PCB hole. The screws all measure continuity. However, soldering a piece of hardwire to the pin and then stick it under the screw I can't get continuity.
Am I being daft (eg you need to solder to the screw as well?) or should I just go the old way (pin 6 to "screen" PCB point?)
Cheers
Quick question, on Mnats notes, he wired the screen to the carnhill screw.
I am not using a bracket, instead, mounting directly on the PCB (2 screws provided). The screw socket tests continuity to the goldfinger, so does the "SCREEN" PCB hole. The screws all measure continuity. However, soldering a piece of hardwire to the pin and then stick it under the screw I can't get continuity.
Am I being daft (eg you need to solder to the screw as well?) or should I just go the old way (pin 6 to "screen" PCB point?)
Cheers
jplebre
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2012
- Messages
- 617
Hey guys just trying to understand this build a bit more, other than just sticking some solder blobs on a pcb:
- the 4.7M resistors are only there to avoid popping when swapping the resistors?
- The 620ohm resistor on a jumper, is this to emulate a o/p load?
- the jumper will allow 24v through for supply, but what happens where there's the 2 voltages present?
- any good source places for information on this kind of equalizer topology? I'm really not following how the whole Q (resistor divider before the amp) affects the signal
Tell me to shut up if I'm being silly. I did get most of the power section from the discussions about the TDK lambda on the old thread (using it the other way around).
Can you say that the input is a passive design with Class A o/p?
Tell me to shut up if I'm being to annoying.
:Guinness:
- the 4.7M resistors are only there to avoid popping when swapping the resistors?
- The 620ohm resistor on a jumper, is this to emulate a o/p load?
- the jumper will allow 24v through for supply, but what happens where there's the 2 voltages present?
- any good source places for information on this kind of equalizer topology? I'm really not following how the whole Q (resistor divider before the amp) affects the signal
Tell me to shut up if I'm being silly. I did get most of the power section from the discussions about the TDK lambda on the old thread (using it the other way around).
Can you say that the input is a passive design with Class A o/p?
Tell me to shut up if I'm being to annoying.
:Guinness:
peter purpose
Well-known member
Shut up.... you're being really forgen annoying.
1 As far as I know... yes.
2 Yes
3 You'll either add the components for +&- 16v, or leave them out for 24v. Jumping for 24v when using dc-dc converter will result in death.
4 NFI
1 As far as I know... yes.
2 Yes
3 You'll either add the components for +&- 16v, or leave them out for 24v. Jumping for 24v when using dc-dc converter will result in death.
4 NFI
Where did you get your knobs? I wouldn't mind getting enough for my pair.
jplebre
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2012
- Messages
- 617
those are something that Peter made for his stuff he said he wasn't selling them as they were for the finished units he was selling.
Not sure if it's still the case.
I'm using the skirted Kilo for the frequency and the normal Kilo with a line for the boost/cut. Pretty sweet!
Not sure if it's still the case.
I'm using the skirted Kilo for the frequency and the normal Kilo with a line for the boost/cut. Pretty sweet!
jplebre
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2012
- Messages
- 617
Finished 2 units. Ran them phase opposite and they are super tight! they begin to drift at 7kHz.
Hopefully will put them against n$$e reissues some time soon.
Pete made these too easy to build!
Question: my 51x is not running the 24v rail atm.
I have populated the parts for VPR 500 and am running of 16v no problems. Jumper is not in
When I finish the PSU supply, do I have to saw off the tab with the above configuration?
And - if needed in future - is taking out the TDK lambda and putting a jumper enough to go 51x 24v or do I need to remove further components?
Hopefully will put them against n$$e reissues some time soon.
Pete made these too easy to build!
Question: my 51x is not running the 24v rail atm.
I have populated the parts for VPR 500 and am running of 16v no problems. Jumper is not in
When I finish the PSU supply, do I have to saw off the tab with the above configuration?
And - if needed in future - is taking out the TDK lambda and putting a jumper enough to go 51x 24v or do I need to remove further components?
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