Feeler: an "Eee-Zzz" christmas present...ez1073 and ez1073-500

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canidoit said:
Is your method better than the DC-DC converter method in regards to these units? Is there a reason why you didn't go the DC-DC converter method like other 500 series designers for the 16v lunchboxes?

I cannot envisage a single reason why you would use a DC-DC converter (except perhaps unless you owned a factory that makes DC-DC converters).

In no particular order;

They are all different package styles so you would need to choose a brand and stick with it which can be a sourcing problem if the supplier is out of stock.
They are comparitively large.
They generate noise which is not good for a high gain system.
They introduce noise spikes onto the supply line unless you have a very low impedance supply output.
They are generally unreliable.... compared to a linear regulator

.... and of course most importantly..... expensive.... a linear regulator is only a few pence.

Colin
www.audiomaintenance.com



 
Collin, why didn't you use Pin 17 ;)
you are the original inventor 8)

however, for sure I'm in (ez1073-500, for sure in stereo)
mhm, looks like I need to build more 511 Racks soon ;D
 
south2577 said:
Keen to know the price?

Applying an educated guess I would expect that the ez1073-500 would probably cost about GBP 350 in total .... much of it depends on how many small components you already have from other projects (you cannot order a single resistor from suppliers).... and how many you build at once to save on freight costs.....

The 1U rack version would probably cost GBP 450 as you have more metalwork and a psu to add.

Colin
www.audiomaintenance.com
 
Colin,

You are a genius and madman, and we love you for it  :p

It was quite funny as on Christmas eve I was thinking to myself, 'I wonder when someone is going to do a PCB 1073, we've spoken about it for years...', lo and behold, not one but TWO surface, genius!

I love the layout, I noticed some of the smaller details as well, the holes around the 2N3055 heatsink for ventilation, preventing the heat potentially damaging the PCB in years to come. It also looks like there is onboard regulation as well if you decided to use it?

Well done mate, top notch as always!

Cheers

Matt
 
Slenderchap said:
canidoit said:
Is your method better than the DC-DC converter method in regards to these units? Is there a reason why you didn't go the DC-DC converter method like other 500 series designers for the 16v lunchboxes?

I cannot envisage a single reason why you would use a DC-DC converter (except perhaps unless you owned a factory that makes DC-DC converters).

In no particular order;

They are all different package styles so you would need to choose a brand and stick with it which can be a sourcing problem if the supplier is out of stock.
They are comparitively large.
They generate noise which is not good for a high gain system.
They introduce noise spikes onto the supply line unless you have a very low impedance supply output.
They are generally unreliable.... compared to a linear regulator

.... and of course most importantly..... expensive.... a linear regulator is only a few pence.

Colin
www.audiomaintenance.com
Would you say that using a linear regulator enables your unit to be more true to the original 1073 units as say a DC-DC converter version does?

Have you compared other 1073 - 500 series clones that are using a DC-DC converter and an original 1073, and compared it to your 500 series clone, and have you noticed any sonic differences?
 
oh my god this is awesome. i wish i have some money to spend right now.
does it have a DI too?
however that thing is awesome.
are you gonna make a single batch?
because if you keep these regularly in your shop you this would be awesome.
i'm interested only in the 1RU unit, but the 500 one seems awesome too.

please keep a bunch in your shop regularly.
this would be seriously awesome, at least the 1RU unit. nobody has them.
what you did is seriously awesome.
thanks.
don't be that guy, don't stop the production after the groupbuy, people need this

 
canidoit said:
Would you say that using a linear regulator enables your unit to be more true to the original 1073 units as say a DC-DC converter version does?
Have you compared other 1073 - 500 series clones that are using a DC-DC converter and an original 1073, and compared it to your 500 series clone, and have you noticed any sonic differences?

No and No....

pietro_moog said:
does it have a DI too?.......are you gonna make a single batch?

No DI input..... that would be a different project.

I will not be making anything.... I am hoping that Gustav will make the PCB's, and a couple of other members will make the metalwork.

kml23956 said:
I get back online and this is what I find....awesome.  I need to make room in the rack.

Get a big rack because there is more to come.....

matta said:
I love the layout, I noticed some of the smaller details as well, the holes around the 2N3055 heatsink for ventilation, preventing the heat potentially damaging the PCB in years to come. It also looks like there is onboard regulation as well if you decided to use it?

I would love to say that I had been clever enough to make rectangular vent holes... but they are just the screenprint showing a common heatsink size.... they give off very little heat anyway... holes would be redundant in a 1U box due to the overall volume of air....

All the power supply is onboard.... just need the low voltage AC inputs.... waiting for a new Carnhill 24v/48v power transformer.... should be here soon enough....


Colin
www.audiomaintenance,.com
 
what size case did you design the 1u pcb to fit into?

8 inch, 11 inch depth? or... 200mm/280mm?

already starting to assemble modules in the back of my mind!

GREAT work on this and thank you so much for making this project available.
 
south2577 said:
I'm interested in 120 of the 1U modules  ;D...... but a pair will do for starters.

Keen to know the price? Kits partial or full?

Some of us aussie's could share postage?

Nice work Colin.

Here here, happy to share :p
 
Sarcastic Sound said:
what size case did you design the 1u pcb to fit into?

The PCB in the photo is just a prototype so it has the XLR's on board purely for bench testing... it measures about 16cm x 40cm... I intend to remove the XLR's (although they could probably stay)

You should not attempt to have a circuit board where the pots are fastened to the faceplate and the connectors are attached to the rear panel..... apart from the fact that the mechanical tolerances are not good enough you will eventually find the unit fails as the solder joints fracture due to the expansion/contraction of the chassis over the years....

I'll put some molex connectors for each XLR connection and they can be hand wired.... this way people can choose the type/brand of XLRs etc....

So I would expect that a 200mm depth will probably be OK.... maybe a bit more to allow for an IEC mains inlet.....

I have received confirmation from Gustav that he is happy to do the PCB's

Dan (collective cases) will probably be doing the 1U rack metalwork.... I just have to  do the faceplate drawing for him.

Colin
www.audiomaintenance.com
 
Slenderchap said:
You should not attempt to have a circuit board where the pots are fastened to the faceplate and the connectors are attached to the rear panel..... apart from the fact that the mechanical tolerances are not good enough you will eventually find the unit fails as the solder joints fracture due to the expansion/contraction of the chassis over the years....
Collin how about if its like grayhill switches that are soldered on the PCB board and the grayhills fastened to the faceplate?
I am really concerned about a 500 series EQ I am doing where there are 3 grayhill switches soldered to the PCB and the grayhills fastened to the faceplate and the PCB fastened to the case. I noticed that when I attached the grayhills to the faceplate and tighten the nuts, I could feel a sort of crackling when doing it.

It would have been OK if the PCB wasn't attached to the case, so that there wouldn't be any tugging kind of thing happening in this situation.

Is there a flexible tolerance on the pcb when a component for example tries to lift the solder and pcb metal part of the pcb?

 
What I wrote above does not apply to a 500 series module as it does not have a mechanically attached rear connection... it can move backwards and forwards in the EDAC socket....

The problem you describe will always happen..... you must tighten the faceplate parts in place before you tighten the PCB screws to the side panel..... if there is a large gap between the switches and the rear of the faceplate use 2 nuts... one on each side of the faceplate

The ez1073 and ez1073-500 will use the "2 nut" approach..... the rear one is that which comes with the component... the front one is a chrome "ring nut" which is partially buried in the faceplate so that the knobs almost touch the faceplate (desguising the fixtures).

Colin
www.audiomaintenance.com
 

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