Thanks very much, Ian! That was my instinct, but my instincts have led me to do some pretty strange things in the past, so I thought it best to check.
-Clint
-Clint
Feeler: Classic Solo
- Thread starter ruffrecords
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
Hi,
On the new 4Toggle pcb, it looks like the resistor designations have changed a bit from ClassicSoloLoHumBuildInstructionsV0.2. Just to be sure I have it right, it looks like:
R1,2: 6K8
R3: 150
R 4,5: 680
R6: 3K3
R7: 150
R8: 3K3
Is that about right?
Best,
Clint
On the new 4Toggle pcb, it looks like the resistor designations have changed a bit from ClassicSoloLoHumBuildInstructionsV0.2. Just to be sure I have it right, it looks like:
R1,2: 6K8
R3: 150
R 4,5: 680
R6: 3K3
R7: 150
R8: 3K3
Is that about right?
Best,
Clint
ruffrecords
Well-known member
I just checked the PCB layout and I can confirm those are the correct values.
Cheers
ian
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Just finished my Classic Solo and I couldn't be happier with it. Phantom power is still "reserved for future expansion", but it sounds fantastic even with an SM57 or a line source going through it. And naturally, with a 12 position switch, I couldn't resist making it go to 11. Thanks so much for making this possible, Ian.
ruffrecords
Well-known member
Absolutely! I’ll do a couple shots with my real camera and email them to you.
Best,
Clint
ruffrecords
Well-known member
I had no recollection of that so I had to go and look at the PCB. It is on the mic, line and out Molex 3 pin connectors. It was probably meant to indicate hot but it is in the wrong place for that. My 'standard for 3 pin Molex connectors carrying balanced signals is pin1 screen, pin 2 hot and pin 3 cold, just like an XLR. I always make pin 1 of a connector have a square pad, the the H's are beside pin 3 which is wrong. So best just ignore it. (I may have added them as a visual aid when tracking the PCB to make sue the did not get swapped between input and output).
Cheers
Ian
Aha! I’ve been scratching my head about why my tube mic was out of phase to the others. Easiest fix ever
I just finished testing my build. Works great outside of the enclosure so I'm going to finish dressing it up and I'll post pics later.
Also, I have the old PCB's, anyone got a work around to get an LED indicator to work for the 48v? Can I do just add a wire to the backside of the 48v switch and call it a day?
Also, I have the old PCB's, anyone got a work around to get an LED indicator to work for the 48v? Can I do just add a wire to the backside of the 48v switch and call it a day?
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ruffrecords
Well-known member
If you have the original version of the 4toggles PCB then I think it switches after the pair of 6K8 resistors so there is no mod to add a 48V LED. There is now a new version of the PCB that does allow the addition of a 48V LED. The Gerber files are open source and available from my web site in the OpenSourcePCBs folder under the DIY tab:
Custom Tube Consoles - DIY
You can get five of them made for as little as $2 from JLCPCB.com I have attached the Gerbers zip file.
Cheers
Ian
Custom Tube Consoles - DIY
You can get five of them made for as little as $2 from JLCPCB.com I have attached the Gerbers zip file.
Cheers
Ian
I was having no trouble until I drilled out the body for the build. Now I'm getting thin treble-y output. There seems to be only 3 ohms between positive, negative, and ground on the output, and only 10 ohm between positive and negative before the input transformer. I've been testing the wiring but it all seems good. Something got loose 
I'll re-check wiring when the new switch pcbs come in, but upsetting nonetheless
I'll re-check wiring when the new switch pcbs come in, but upsetting nonetheless
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ruffrecords
Well-known member
I am guessing by positive and negative you mean hot and cold. Between the hot and cold output there should be quite a low resistance; it is just the dc resistance of the transformer winding. Actual value depends on which output transformer you are using. There should be no connection at all between hot or cold and ground. If you measure a low resistance like 10 ohms then something is wired wrong.
Cheers
Ian
Cheers
Ian
Still having trouble since putting it in an enclosure. Convinced it's a grounding problem. Anyone have any ideas where I might be going wrong? I'm using the DI and the only difference other than the enclosure is I put in a better pot as the old was PCB pin that I was rigged up.
Update: Something must've happened to the output transformer as it has no resistance across the primaries. I've found the culprit. It's behaving well now.
Update: Something must've happened to the output transformer as it has no resistance across the primaries. I've found the culprit. It's behaving well now.
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ruffrecords
Well-known member
When you say the output transformer has no resistance across the primaries do you mean it is open circuit or short circuit??
Cheers
Ian
Cheers
Ian
It's open.
ruffrecords
Well-known member
We'll done. So often it is the simple thing gs that trip us up.
Cheers
Ian
Cheers
Ian
