Fabio (Audioman) and frazzman,
We've been through this a couple of times before:
Gain through the GPultec depends on two things:
1 - The actual raw gain of the tube used - this varies some +/- 2½dB on NOS tubes, probably more on new-production ones. You could use Russian 6N23P for slightly more gain in average (if you can find those).
2 - The
ratio of the values of hi-boost potentiometer (10KA) and the hi-cut potentiometer (1KA) - this is where we do the actual -20dB no-eq-attenuation (Schematic - http://www.gyraf.dk/gy_pd/pultec/gy_pd_sch.gif )
For adjusting to unity gain, you could probably put a 1K Ohm trimmer potentiometer at the TOP (clockwise end) of the hi-cut pot and adjust for unity at no-hicut-setting. Only side-effect of this will be slightly less available maximum-hi-cut at pot extreme setting.
If you do this, let us know how/if it works - would be nice to have in this thread
EDIT: Confirmed working -
frazzman said:
Just letting you know the 1k trimmer at the Hi cut CW position does indeed work and allow for trimming to unity gain. I now have no level difference with pultex engaged.
Please also note that this circuit was made for LL5402's in and out - other brands of transformers or no-input-transformer may very well give varying results.
Jakob E.
ps: I've had quite a few JJ tubes fail me after short time. Maybe it's poor production standards, maybe they are specified slightly different than real E88CC's, and don't like us going to extremes of cathode/heater potential differences. I use Philips 6922, and like them a lot.
DO NOT run this circuit above +250V HT - the tubes don't like this. Raise series resistor value until you have some 200-250V HT under load (tube heated, ca. 30sec.). A standard 0.6W type resistor will nearly always do fine -
you do the math of power dissipated at given resistor and given voltage drop....