G1176 North American parts list?

[Greg]

The 12V lamp will work fine. I just suggested the 24V lamp since it will draw less current. I might have missed a previous post somewhere, but did you guys try meter distributor here in the states? That's where I bought my meter and lamp kit. And I bought the Lundahl from K&K Audio. I think they were more expensive, but I had both items in a few days ! :thumb:

If meter distributor is out of stock, then just e-mail Canford and ask them if they have 24V version of the illumination kit. If not, the 12V will work.

 

[bradb]

hey greg, thanks for the info...

I was under the impression you ordered from Canford... I'm saving $20 by going with them for the meter and trannies, but the delay is awhile.. But in reality, they will probably arrive just as i'll need them.

Still curious about the chrismas light hot glued to the top of the meter, that could be nice!

thanks!

 

[Greg]

I ordered a Sifam PPM for a GSSL I'm working on from Canford. When I built the G1176 I was able to get what I wanted in the states.

What voltage are christmas lights?

 

[bradb]

I don't know what the voltage is, perhaps 120V.... should that matter?

-bb

 

[kato]

[quote author="bradb"]
its not as bad as the toroidal tranny from Digikey, 19week backorder as of now. im going to just get the avel lindberg for $23 plus shipping.[/quote]

Brad, I had the same problem with the backordered toroid from digikey. I just ordered the next size down (only .45A) figuring it would be enough to power a single channel. Not entirely sure though.

Here's the digikey part #:
TE62045-ND

You might want to verify that it will work with this circuit before purchasing. I'm still new to this.

Kato

 

[Greg]

Or maybe you could try the next size up... I think a 25VA is needed. Just move up to 30VA. It's probably just a buck or two more. Then you'd have plenty of "juice" for lamp illumination. :thumb:

 

[bradb]

That out of stock tranny is the largest toroid at digikey unfortunately. Also, Gyraf specified that 24V minimum is needed in some post around here. Not to be a party pooper or nothing!

 

[Greg]

The 22V-0-22V works fine for this project... When I said go up in size didn't mean the secondary voltage, I meant the power (VA) rating.

Digikey Part # - TE62075-ND > $16.83

This one will do job and is in stock !

 

[bradb]

Hey guys,

I went ahead and ordered the 6.8uF electrolytics to replace the tantalums... is this a big deal?

Why did people avoid the tantalums and go with electrolytics?

-bb

 

[edanderson]

tantalums have tighter tolerances to their stated values than aluminum electrolytics. they also have less leakage current. in this case, neither of these factors matter; you can put a 10uf electrolytic in there instead of a 6.8uf tantalum and it will work the same.

however, the big disadvantage with tantalum caps is that when they fail, they short out, all at once. electrolytics tend to fail more gradually, their value dropping until they are essentially an open circuit, sometimes with a bit of increased leakage. this is why tantalums have a bad rep for power supply decoupling; throwing a short circuit from your power rail to ground is much worse than the cap fading out and failing to filter.

in this case, the caps are there for dc blocking (the FDH333 diodes immediately after are also low-leakage). the value can be bigger than 6.8uf (and most electrolytics are -20/+50% tolerance) and it will still do its job. failing to a short (tantalum) will screw up the circuit, but not damage anything under normal circumstances. failing to an open circuit (electrolytic) will also stop it from working, and will also not damage anything. you might net a very small improvement in leakage current by using a tantalum, but it wont be enough to affect circuit performance. so, your pick.

ed

 

[bradb]

thanks everyone!

 

[erland]

Does anyone have a par-metal parts number for the case? The 10 series has 2RU cases in these depths: 8", 11", 14", 17" and 20"

A search for "Monacor RC-222" only turned up G1176 pages.

 

[kdawg]

8" is deep enough for a single unit w/toroid. I used 10-19083B 2U case. Just ordered another one today actually...

-kdawg.

 

[erland]

Thanks a lot kdawg

 

[erland]

[quote author="Greg"]
If meter distributor is out of stock, then just e-mail Canford and ask them if they have 24V version of the illumination kit. If not, the 12V will work.[/quote]

Is this one okay? http://www.canford.co.uk/commerce/productdetails.aspx?productid=58-367

 

[erland]

Does anyone have a parts number for the mains switch? Would the 2-6 Pos Lorlin switch used for the Ratio knob be okay?

Thanks a lot

 

[funkdrmr]

Hi everyone. I'm currently researching parts for this project & thought I might be able to contribute something in the process.

First off, I'm using the BOM from this link: http://members.cox.net/capstanrecording/DIY/G1176.html

I wanted to make sure this list is correct first. If it is, I'm wondering if it would be helpful for me to post the list separated by vendor so it's easy to import? Like a mouser list, a digikey list, etc....

I have to separate it all to import in for my orders anyways, so I'm wondering if it might be useful to anyone else.

 

[Greg]

That's me G1176... as far as I know, everything is correct. As with all projects, different brand poly and lytics could be chosen, among other things. There aren't any known mistakes.

 

[funkdrmr]

I was hoping you'd reply, Greg! I assumed the list was correct, but we all know what assuming does for a DIY newbie like myself.

Greg, am I correct that your parts list works with the current mnats boards that are being offered?

Thanks for the help!

 

[Greg]

I've never used mnats boards, but mnats has stated that my parts list will work with his board.