Gates M5215 questions

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thomasdf

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rackmonkey

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Antique Electronic Supply in the US carries CE brand capacitors. They bought all of Mallory's old machinery and manufacture multi-cap cans in the original values and dimensions. Pricey, but it's your best bet for fit to original holes.

https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/capacitors?filters=2341a2356

Another option that I've used often is to cut the can open and stuff it with modern, individual capacitors. Not hard to do, but time-consuming. However, if you're going for original look, it's a way to do it.

As far as values go, you don't necessarily need 30+30 uF - electrolytic caps have wide tolerances (usually +20%/-10%). 33uF will work fine.
 

rackmonkey

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The fact that you mentioned that the JJ's were "too wide for a clean replacement" made me think you're looking to preserve the original look. But to EMRR's point above, you definitely don't have to go that route if looks aren't the priority. You can just get individual 33uF caps and install them internally. Then just cover the old can cap hole. Wait - these are 5215s - so you dont even have to cover a hole! Just solder the caps directly to the boards! I've got a dozen of these and that's all I ever did with them.

Brain fart there for a sec.
 
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emrr

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Hi Doug, Do you mean leave them out entirely? I thought they were for power supply decoupling & filtering. -Mike
Of course not, just that one seldom needs to retrofit exact mechanical designs, especially on little naked PCB's like this. I have almost never bought a new multi-section cap for 5x - 10x the money, it's rarely required.
 

mjrippe

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Ok, just the wording was vague and I thought I was wasting time and money ;) With a modern supply the filtering is probably not needed, but decoupling would still be.

As most multi-sections are four or fewer, I save the mounting phenolic and retrofit it with modern caps and hot glue.
 

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thomasdf

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Thanks for your answers. I was also wondering if I could skip them completely and have a super clean main PSU for all the modules.
i am not looking for the original look, I want to restore them properly and I am more interested in their sound :)

EDIT : TAD Gold Cap 33+33uF @ 450V axial capacitor
this one is cheaper, I think I will go with it.. it seems quite convenient / compact.
 
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