GROUP BUY: Universal Audio 176 - a 100% faithful recreation of a legend! CLOSED!

[rainton]

I used Belton Micalex sockets for the 9-pin sockets on the pcb.
I simply bent the legs in a bit - worked like a charm.
I attached a pic of one of the pcbs, but it's kinda hard to see:

 

[jslstudio]

Ok,
Yeah I will bend the legs in..But the holes should still be a little more OUT diameter... *** Bending worked on the Cinch sockets! ***

Looks great though.....
Here is my original UA 175b can I repaired and stuffed the original spec Reichenbach 176 output in.....I was going to build
my own can. Now I know how the original was done so I can build my own in the future.
Next fill the hole. For sowter spec..... I would have done this in the beginning but wasn't sure how I was going to approach
the mounting. Until I found original can....

John

 

[Le Roux]

Mallory T-pad input and output pots

I plan on using these for the build.

Question is; do i wire them like you would for the 1176 rev d? see pic for reference

Thanks!

 

[Phrazemaster]

I have an original unit..And there is NO off position!  20 position and you could use 1.5 or 2 db. steps.
Obviously 1.5 Is going to be more fine tuned...Or NO steps at all even more fine adjustments. 40DB.

But I am sure variations either way spec wise would still work. Because there is a General area that most music material
will live on the input/output settings.
John

By the way John - I meant to ask you exactly which attenuators your original unit has. I’m assuming they are langevin - but which exact model info? I still dream of sourcing originals...

Thx kindly,

Mike

 

[jslstudio]

Sent you message! Phraze.....

Here is the link again If People still looking for the American Mains transformer...American made and exact specs....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PT325-2-USA-POWER-TRANSFORMER-TUBE-AUDIO-650Vac-325-0-55-325-x90mA/163566013348?hash=item26154b4ba4:g:sCgAAOSwmVBbFerS:sc:USPSPriorityMailPaddedFlatRateEnvelope!98102!US!-1

 

[Potato Cakes]

I started getting my first one assembled today and I ran into some things that inspired some questions. The first was double checking the schematic. All the capacitors are shown as non polarized, but on the can capacitors there are + and - connections. Is there a different schematic available that shows the polarization? I still have to order C3 and C4 (0.047uF), and I am wondering if these are to be electrolytic as well.

The barrier strips from the BOM do not have a place that I can see to connect the wires from the back. Am I missing something? This should be a no brainer but it seems that I do not have all the correct parts. The BOM has the 7x Y terminals, but those look like they are for making the connections on the screw terminal side with the XLR cables.

I've attached a picture of how I had to make the connection for C9 A and B. This is the Hayseed capacitor. I seems to be too big to fit next to C1 and 2 like on the layout illustration. It should work but I would have preferred something cleaner looking. On that note, is there a reason to have to use the can capacitor? For this one, is there a reason I couldn't use two separate electrolytics?

I haven't decided about which type of capacitor to use for C6 and C7. The oil cans would be cool for creating the look, but once it's in the rack the only thing that matters is that it works sounds like a 176, and I generally don't put too much stock in making things like the original, whatever that means in terms of serial numbers. I'll check around for some oil capacitors but I think I'm going to end up using a quality film capacitor.

Does anyone have a part number for a strain relief that will fit in the opening in the side of the case where the AC cable goes?

On a side note, I reached out to David at Cinemag about making an output transformer and he says they never made one nor knows how to get his hands on the info for the windings. So unless there is another adventurous person who can make these I think only option is the Sowter.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[jslstudio]

Yes they are Polarized. And you need to know this by looking at the schematic. The sides opposite of your
ground is your positive! And the case/ground lugs are your negatives!
John

 

[Potato Cakes]

Yes they are Polarized. And you need to know this by looking at the schematic. The sides opposite of your
ground is your positive! And the case/ground lugs are your negatives!
John

If that is the case for C3&4, I will need some help finding them or knowing if there is a lesser voltage rating that can be used. 0.047uF is mostly for film capacitors and the only current offerings for this value rated for 630VAC are screw in caps that are way too big to fit on the PCB and are about $40 a piece. So I don't know where to find the ones that work like what Rainton used.

Also any additional guidance for the internal connections on the barrier strip would be welcomed.

Outside of those two things, I should be good finish this up myself once I order the remaining parts. I'm debating building the stepped attenuators or just using the ones from CAPI/Hairball.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[jslstudio]

C3 and 4 are not polarized.

 

[Potato Cakes]

Thanks. I figured it out but I will gladly take confirmation regarding this project. I would like to not make this one blow up when I power it up for the first time.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[jslstudio]

I started getting my first one assembled today and I ran into some things that inspired some questions. The first was double checking the schematic. All the capacitors are shown as non polarized, but on the can capacitors there are + and - connections. Is there a different schematic available that shows the polarization? I still have to order C3 and C4 (0.047uF), and I am wondering if these are to be electrolytic as well.

The barrier strips from the BOM do not have a place that I can see to connect the wires from the back. Am I missing something? This should be a no brainer but it seems that I do not have all the correct parts. The BOM has the 7x Y terminals, but those look like they are for making the connections on the screw terminal side with the XLR cables.

I've attached a picture of how I had to make the connection for C9 A and B. This is the Hayseed capacitor. I seems to be too big to fit next to C1 and 2 like on the layout illustration. It should work but I would have preferred something cleaner looking. On that note, is there a reason to have to use the can capacitor? For this one, is there a reason I couldn't use two separate electrolytics?

I haven't decided about which type of capacitor to use for C6 and C7. The oil cans would be cool for creating the look, but once it's in the rack the only thing that matters is that it works sounds like a 176, and I generally don't put too much stock in making things like the original, whatever that means in terms of serial numbers. I'll check around for some oil capacitors but I think I'm going to end up using a quality film capacitor.

Does anyone have a part number for a strain relief that will fit in the opening in the side of the case where the AC cable goes?

On a side note, I reached out to David at Cinemag about making an output transformer and he says they never made one nor knows how to get his hands on the info for the windings. So unless there is another adventurous person who can make these I think only option is the Sowter.

Thanks!

Paul

False! I have the Reichenbach.....I also have the numbers. They where made! But before David took over!...I also have the emails when I talked with David..he said he could not find the numbers and the paper work was lost.....
More then likely he makes the output for Retro 176......
And since they sell more then a handful..He is probably sole provider to them......
John

 

[Potato Cakes]

I don't disagree with you, but it wouldn't do me much good to inform him he's mistaken as I would just be a third party with second hand information. Maybe someone else can ask him. For now I'm going to be looking at the Sowter option as it seems t be the only one that is known to be available.

Still struggling with the terminal blocks. I can't seem to find in the Cinch catalog anything that would facilitate making connections behind the barrier strip inside the chassis. I may have to make something custom but it shouldn't be necessary unless all barrier strip manufacturers no longer make a rear mounted terminal option.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[Potato Cakes]

Mallory T-pad input and output pots

I plan on using these for the build.

Question is; do i wire them like you would for the 1176 rev d? see pic for reference

Thanks!

Look at the schematic and wiring layout then apply it your T-Pad. You can see both - connection points are joined together, so use them for the C connection on the layout. The rest should be self explanatory.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[jslstudio]

I don't disagree with you, but it wouldn't do me much good to inform him he's mistaken as I would just be a third party with second hand information. Maybe someone else can ask him. For now I'm going to be looking at the Sowter option as it seems t be the only one that is known to be available.

Still struggling with the terminal blocks. I can't seem to find in the Cinch catalog anything that would facilitate making connections behind the barrier strip inside the chassis. I may have to make something custom but it shouldn't be necessary unless all barrier strip manufacturers no longer make a rear mounted terminal option.

Thanks!

Paul

You need the terminal block? You need the terminals! If you just have the double row screws..you have NO terminals! Here is a pic of a 5 pin.
Terminals coming out the back. This is what you solder to...The main star ground lug uses this same terminal also........
Im afraid to see some of the frankenstein 176... The whole point of these chassis is to make original.....
Otherwise just throw in a bud box.....))
John
Let me know....
John

 

[Potato Cakes]

John,

That is exactly what I have been struggling to find! Do you have link for the terminals? I could not find them on the Cinch accessory data sheet. I knew I was missing something and it has been quite infuriating that can't find the thing I know has to exist.

Yes, I am trying to make an original looking one to a point, but I figured I could at least get the barrier strip as it should be without what I was contemplating doing.

Thanks!

 

[jslstudio]

Here you go!
I would just buy the block..Because each size has bigger terminal lugs.....And you might buy the wrong size.
This is the 8 block...with terminals. You can also cut these blocks down. But first drill out the two lugs.
If that is the way to go. But If you have the 7-140 block. Pull these terminals off!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-8-140-Y-Cinch-8-Position-Double-Row-Terminal-Barrier-Block-Board-Strip-8pos/131805186039?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D56922%26meid%3D63b1f69e6b294b4cb2cbae49ed6c04ed%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D131805186039%26itm%3D131805186039&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ad6945354-66fb-11e9-9951-74dbd1800b8c%7Cparentrq%3A522b7edc16a0a8832de7184bfff3fe76%7Ciid%3A1

 

[Potato Cakes]

Awesome. Thanks! This is what I thought I was buying but it was the version for mounting inside an service box for low voltage applications, so I was very confused and I imagined that others were also confused at my confusion. Thanks for this link. Getting closer to being able to finish up this first one.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[jslstudio]

Working on my UA 176...... Many new old stock parts.....

 

[Potato Cakes]

Is there a modern equivalent lamp holder that will fit the power indicator drill hole in the face plate? I have some that are the standard Fender sized version but they are too big and I would like to avoid doing any alterations to the faceplate.

Also, what are people using strain relieve the power cable? I bought some that I thought would fit but they are sill a little too big. I didn't know if there was something small enough for the AC cable opening or if I had to use a grommet. There' s always drilling out the hole, I suppose.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[jslstudio]

The early Originals where a gourmet. The extra hole you see below the choke is for a small C wire loom clamp.
That is also where the power cable was strain relieved from pulling out.
The power bulb is 5/16" Jewel lamp. A couple on eBay now. You need the #47 bulb holder.
The Drake Lamp assembly that will work is the 5-B .
Don't put a big fender power jewel......Unless you are doing the first version 175..;-))) They used that giant Fender amp size....
John