GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

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1*12 is CK1049 this is for the sidechain.
and the 2 pole 6 pos is CK1050.

I may be wrong but someone check me on this it has been a while and that is the Farnell numbers. And could be for G9 also so don't go by me.
 
Thanks SF13 !!!!!
Buildin everything , but slowly...I'm learnin!! ;D
These seem to be LOrlin's references , but thanks.It's enough to help me in the LOrlin's Forest of part numbers!
Cheers!!
 
Just letting you know that I will be making a new GSSL because of the last 'screw-up'. It just went worse and worse.

Starting all over again soon.  :)
 
Don't give up Feza I had trouble with mine. I soldered very carefully but STILL had a couple solder bridges that caused me a headache. I went over all the close connections with some solder wick and found the spots that the solder crossed over. This board is tricky to solder.

I just installed my super sidechain board today finally. WOW! I don't know how I used this for so long without it. Man what a difference. I will be using my GSSL ALOT more!! I'm "burning it in" now. ;) Thanks so much Barclaycon for the excellent docs on your site I used to hook it up. Works like a charm!!!
 
I seem to struggle a bit finding the "right" 22uf's and 100uf's for the GSSL.
They need to be good quality as there is audio passing through and also fairly small
given the tight layout.
Anyone have a good EU source or Farnell / Rapid would be great ??
I never seem to be able to find anything much above 20 pence a piece, so perhaps these
are "sub standard" in this application !

Cheers,

Marty.
 
Hey guys,

Is it pretty normal for the GSSL to go into distortion more quickly with the release on it's slowest setting?
 
no, most dist should be on the fastest setting. if you have distortion at slowest setting, check that you have programmed the switch correctly - for five positions only - otherwize position six will distort quite a lot.

Jakob E.
 
gyraf said:
no, most dist should be on the fastest setting. if you have distortion at slowest setting, check that you have programmed the switch correctly - for five positions only - otherwize position six will distort quite a lot.

Jakob E.

But sound amazing on kick drums!
 
Oops, I meant fastest. Don't know why I said slowest. And, the most embarrassing thing is, yes, I do have it on 6 positions. Doh. You nailed it Jakob!
 
Does anyone know what caps were used in the original G384 ?  Trying to get a closer sound to the sound I know from my gssl.

Having built a gssl with turbo, I am finding it much harder/punchier sounding than the original. 
I built with with a 2181LB so will be looking out for a DBX 202xt.

Is there any other differences between the original and the turbo gssl? (apart from vca?)
 
Oh I was under the impression that the early g384 were exactly the same as the desk. Is there differences? They certainly sound pretty close.

In which case, do you know what brand caps/resistors the desk uses? I'm just trying to get a little more of the sound which I know and like on mix buses. Assuming that alongside the vca, the caps play a big part in this. (The one I built is perfect on drums however - much more punchy than an ssl!)
 
Hello
I am starting to realize the Gssl clone with the THAT 2180 and I'd like to know if I have to cut off pin 4 from all the 3 chips in the circuit.
Thank you in advance
 
Fablab said:
Hello
I am starting to realize the Gssl clone with the THAT 2180 and I'd like to know if I have to cut off pin 4 from all the 3 chips in the circuit.
Thank you in advance

I have built three of these units without doing that and they work fine.
 
Fablab said:
Thank you for your reply ... Have you heard differences cutting off or not the pin 4?
From what I remember it makes no difference if its cut or not. Perhaps some more expert posters could chime in to clear it up. Like I said, I have used 2180LB VCA's in all my builds with no problems.
SSLTech? Gyraf? Please correct me if Im wrong.
 
Okay, I just had one of the 1000uF caps blow. Other than a polarity reversal, what could cause this? It was working fine for quite awhile.

Only thing I did was put in two meter LED's.  Is it possible the current draw could have killed one of the big caps? It WAS on the same side of the power supply (I was using the +12V with a 5K resistor to get the voltage down to 10V for the 2 LED's.) They are little Radio Shack things. I don't know what their voltage rating is, but 10V's for two in series appears to light them well. Oh boy, I hope there isn't other stuff that's toasted.
 
Yes, it may be really interesting to know from Gyraf (or other expert posters) what is the better solution ... t
 

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