GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[gyraf]

From a listening test (a quick one, admitted), we could detect no difference on cutting the dist-adj pin 4

Also you may (or may not) want to off-trim the dist a bit for "sound" - not as stupid as it might seem.

Jakob E.

 

[Fablab]

Thank you very much Jakob! ;D

 

[MartyMart]

http://diy.fischerworks.com/gssl_vca.shtml

Here's Matt's GSSL chart with all the info on various VCA options.


Marty.

 

[MartyMart]

6T9R - I'm not Matt   ... but hey it's colour coded and there's a list of all the
2180 / 2181 options ..... should be fairly easy to follow with the GSSL board in front
of you !

MM.

 

[Dr nEon]

Hi

but why let trimmer 5k , if 2181 are pre trimmed?

The 2181 is not pre trimmed .

The pre trimmed version is the 2180.


cheers

nEon

 

[SIXTYNINER]

sorry , crazy error!
the right vca i got is : 2180BL-U
it is the same as in 2180LB ?
as here in follow link?
http://diy.fischerworks.com/gssl_vca.shtml

 

[trancedental]

Disconnect the control PCB & most , almost all of the hum disappears

check that your +/- 12V lines are alive and well

Hi Gyraf, I'm getting the pair of 12V from the main board OK, is there any think else that I could check on the Control PCB, readings at certain points,ect?

Got a new pair of 50K pots  & have checked all around for shorts but found nothing

Cheers

 

[gyraf]

hmm. Check for correct value parts, specially resistors?

 

[bassculture]

hi,

i've build a first GSSL with oxford & two sidechain/TxxxST boards.

i'm building another one and i can't find any valuable infos on these two subjects :

1/ i'll add also a "crush & blend" in my next build.
as the regulators get HOT with all the added boards, i've red people telling to "decrease the value of the feed resistors" ?
what are they talking about where are they ?

2/ i've also read that :
"the only other thing i can think to look at in the gssl is the feedback caps for the I/O opamps.  you can decrease the values somewhat and get a little more bandwidth out of them."
what do jacob & other specialist think of that ?
can i get a little more bandwith at low frequency ? 25 > 45HZ ?

3/ on the type of material i'm mixing, "auto" release is usually useless for me because of sub basses leading it to loooong release.
i'm thinking a 6th release setting would be very usefull for me. something around 180ms.

how to calculate the value of the resistance to put in parallel with the release cap ?


any help would be greatly appreciated


thanks

 

[livingnote]

Well, for the CnB board and stuff getting hot in general - the 7815 and 7915 regs are built to shove an entire ampere. There is nothing wrong if they heat up, it's just physics talking. After all, with a 15V Trafo you're giving them around 19-21V for breakfast after the filter, and that's a drop of around 5V, at 1 amp that's already around 5watts that get grilled. And if you measure the amperage drawn from your PSU I doubt that it's even half an amp. Just grab the next bigger heatsink.

If there is a sound AUDIO reason for "running regs cool" by load distribution please correct me but basically it's cosmetics.

Remember that I run the ENTIRE LED frontpanel of my SSL off a single reg (separate from the audio circuit). And dat bitch gets hot! Big heatsink...

What you don't wanna do is tap off the 12V rails anywhere...too little guys...

 

[bassculture]

thanks livingnote (i bought a dremel )

anyone on the release mod ? and the feedback caps ? (see my previous message on this page)
where to look can't find

i'm sure someone as discuss that before.


any help would be greatly appreciated


thanks

 

[trancedental]

hmm. Check for correct value parts, specially resistors?

Cheers Gyraf, I've had problems with the Alpha switches , so decided to replace them all with Lorlins, so I'm waiting for those to arrive :  I found a 100K instead of a 180K resistor which I replaced but nothing else despite checking everything which is why I'm ripping out ALL the Alpha switches

I was just wondering if can I get the control PCB working properly without a makup pot do I just short the A2 & A connections?  And if I don't solder the 3 COM OFF ON connections at all does the GSSL just work as normal? With compression engaged? Or Do I have to short the COM & OFF?

Just thought it would be easier to troubleshoot once I install the Lorlins this way?

Thanks

 

[MasonAtom]

Just finished stuffing my gssl boards more than a year after I received them... I made two mistakes and would like some guidance on how to fix them.

1) I accidentally put the "release" lorlin switch in upside down. I know that since the switch is symmetrical that is perfectly OK, but for esthetic purposes I would like it to point the right way, as I've already designed the dxf file for my engraving. Can someone suggest the best way for me to rectify this error?

Solder-sucker or solder-wick all the pads and gently try to rock the switch out? I'm worried that I won't be able to get all the solder out and I may end up doing physical damage to the PCB in getting the switch out.

2) I had a small spastic moment when I slipped and my hot iron went from one pad to an adjacent one. I ended up with a solder bridge. I tried to fix it using solder wick, it looked OK to the naked eye but I put my PCB under a microscope and there is still a bit of a bridge there. What is the best way to get rid of this? I checked the rest of the board and it looks fine.

mason

 

[Chrome Heart]

Just finished stuffing my gssl boards more than a year after I received them... I made two mistakes and would like some guidance on how to fix them.

1) I accidentally put the "release" lorlin switch in upside down. I know that since the switch is symmetrical that is perfectly OK, but for esthetic purposes I would like it to point the right way, as I've already designed the dxf file for my engraving. Can someone suggest the best way for me to rectify this error?

Solder-sucker or solder-wick all the pads and gently try to rock the switch out? I'm worried that I won't be able to get all the solder out and I may end up doing physical damage to the PCB in getting the switch out.

2) I had a small spastic moment when I slipped and my hot iron went from one pad to an adjacent one. I ended up with a solder bridge. I tried to fix it using solder wick, it looked OK to the naked eye but I put my PCB under a microscope and there is still a bit of a bridge there. What is the best way to get rid of this? I checked the rest of the board and it looks fine.

mason

I usually get the round shaft now, but the first one I built I used D shaft. I would just get some round shaft knobs and put something in to fill the gap and tighten the set screw. Unless you bought really expensive knobs I dont think its worth taking the switch out. To get rid of the solder bridge, just cut it with a blade.

 

[SIXTYNINER]

FOUND 2 RESISTORS VALUE FOR A CORRECT RATIO VALUES
USING THAT 2180BL
1-120K
2-127K
WHAT IS THE REAL ONE?
AND
THE 2 - 47K RESISTORS (NEAR LEFT VCA 50K TRIMMER) ,MUST BE REMOVED?

THANKS IN ADVANCE
6T9R
PS
HOW CAN I DO FOR ADD A PICTURES TO THE POSTS?

 

[guitarguy12387]

Hey guys,

Bit of a noob question here. I have a spare 18-0-18 power torroid but its rated at 30va.

I can use this with no problems on a GSSL, right?

Just making sure, thanks!

 

[livingnote]

@Guitarguy - sure. You can drive a car with lots of HP in the slow lane, too.

http://diy.fischerworks.com/gssl_vca.shtml

Whoa, never noticed the thing with changing the resistor values for the THAT - removing trim r's makes sense of course...but do I get this right if assume the following:

Replacing the SC in 47Ks with 120K's will make the sidechain a little less than half as sensitive?

(6T9R - if you remove these altogether your sidechain will just dangle in midair and the SSL will not compress)

And that 127K - that will set the overall scaling of the CV to the VCAs, right? As in, fiddle with that and all the ratios get larger or smaller?

Btw, what's up with the 10K from the VCA in to V-? I assume that the 3.9k biases, and the 10K gets removed according to THAT, replacing the 3.9k with a 5.1k, but...what does the 10K do?

Cheers,

Lukas

 

[guitarguy12387]

Thanks lukas! I figured... just wanted to make sure.

 

[museic]

Hey all,

I started soldering my resisters today and realized that in the output section of my PCB where the 100R resister goes, on the back, the solder point is connected to another solder point for the 100u circle. (Sorry I'm still learning how to read these things and thats as specific as I can be). My question is obviously, are these supposed to be linked? If not, how do you deal with this? Scrape a line between them or something?

Thanks for the help!

 

[signalflow]

A quick look at the schematic will reveal the answer, but in case you don't have it handy, yes it is fine.

Signalflow