GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

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phancak said:
I thought base scheme GYRAF. Current draw is base value.
Schematic says, a 5VA transformer might do it.

5VA/230VAC=0.022AAC primary (assuming continental european mains 230V AC +/-10%), if this would be your question.
(5VA/(15VAC+15VAC))=0.167AAC secondary, if this would be your question.
(5VA/(15VAC+15VAC))/1.8=0.093Araw DC, if this would be your question.
Assuming 0.25 EUR/kWh, buying/using a mains switch for your unit might break even in about 8 months, if this would be your question.

Why can't you just say what is wrong with your unit or be more specific in your request.
 
Harpo said:
phancak said:
I thought base scheme GYRAF. Current draw is base value.
Schematic says, a 5VA transformer might do it.

5VA/230VAC=0.022AAC primary (assuming continental european mains 230V AC +/-10%), if this would be your question.
(5VA/(15VAC+15VAC))=0.167AAC secondary, if this would be your question.
(5VA/(15VAC+15VAC))/1.8=0.093Araw DC, if this would be your question.
Assuming 0.25 EUR/kWh, buying/using a mains switch for your unit might break even in about 8 months, if this would be your question.

Why can't you just say what is wrong with your unit or be more specific in your request.


I edited Base scheme to the input and output relay  (True Bypass)+ Turbo board.
For correct operation requires a different power supply.
What will be the current draw?
 
phancak said:
I edited Base scheme to the input and output relay  (True Bypass)+ Turbo board.
For correct operation requires a different power supply.
What will be the current draw?
I read it as you want to add a Turbo board and a true bypass circuit by using relays.

Add maybe 15mA for the turbo board.
You have to be more specific for your relay (and you will need 4 DPDT relays for true bypass).
What is the relay type and its operating voltage?
Usual thru hole low signal miniature relais suspects might be Multicomp HRS2, Takamisawa series NA or RY, Tyco series FU2 or Omron G5V2. There are other as well. You might want a specific size or pinout for a given pcb.
Depending on voltage and sensivity type, each relay will draw 8.3mA up to 166.7mA for prementioned types, giving a total of 33.2mA up to 666.8mA for the 4 needed relais. (this is 0.25 up to 6 times the total current for a GSSL+Turbo only for the relais, depending on type and operating voltage)
Maybe add 10mA for each status LED on top. Depending on voltage maybe add 35mA up to 200mA for each incandescent lamp instead of a status LED.
 
Harpo said:
phancak said:
I edited Base scheme to the input and output relay  (True Bypass)+ Turbo board.
For correct operation requires a different power supply.
What will be the current draw?
I read it as you want to add a Turbo board and a true bypass circuit by using relays.

Add maybe 15mA for the turbo board.
You have to be more specific for your relay (and you will need 4 DPDT relays for true bypass).
What is the relay type and its operating voltage?
Usual thru hole low signal miniature relais suspects might be Multicomp HRS2, Takamisawa series NA or RY, Tyco series FU2 or Omron G5V2. There are other as well. You might want a specific size or pinout for a given pcb.
Depending on voltage and sensivity type, each relay will draw 8.3mA up to 166.7mA for prementioned types, giving a total of 33.2mA up to 666.8mA for the 4 needed relais. (this is 0.25 up to 6 times the total current for a GSSL+Turbo only for the relais, depending on type and operating voltage)
Maybe add 10mA for each status LED on top. Depending on voltage maybe add 35mA up to 200mA for each incandescent lamp instead of a status LED.


Relay is 4x Axicom (2x input L,R ,2x output L,R)
http://uk.farnell.com/te-connectivity-axicom/v23079-a1003-b301/relay-pcb-dpco-12vdc/dp/1175081
 
Any reason why you can't click on the 'Technical Data Sheet' yourself ? This is DIY.
You might read that this relay you refer to is rated for 12VDC and has a 720 ohm coil resistance. You do the math for 12/720=x A.
 
Harpo said:
Any reason why you can't click on the 'Technical Data Sheet' yourself ? This is DIY.
You might read that this relay you refer to is rated for 12VDC and has a 720 ohm coil resistance. You do the math for 12/720=x A.

It was my answer to the question.

Harpo sorry for stupid questions.
I think THE BEST help for GSSL. Your support helps me at work to GSSL.
I'm sorry for the many questions.
 
gyraf said:
The left channel seems to work great in all regards but the right channel only outputs the bypassed signal. When I fed a signal to the right channel alone it appears on the meter to be compressing and varying with changes of threshold, ratio etc... but the output stays the same as if in bypass.

Right channel VCA does not get a sidechain control signal - check output voltages at the 5534 driving the VCA control input, compare L and R while compressing.

Then look for errors around R VCA

Jakob E.

Fixed it thanks !! one missed solder on a jumper taking the control to the R VCA.

Great project and the info here is very helpfull.
 
Hi guys. I have a problem with the voltage TL074/pin14 - voltage ratio.
My voltages are:

Input level is 0.1V, 1KHz

2:1 = 0.64VAC (Harpo writes 4.8VAC)
4:1 = 0.78VAC  (Harpo writes 0.83VAC)
10:1 = 0.43VAC (Harpo ...?)

Where can be the problem?
Other voltages are OK.
Only problem is RATIO.

Thank you
 
phancak said:
Where can be the problem?
You probably have the sidechain VCA fitted for these -only for debugging purpose by breaking the sidechain feedback loop- test conditions. Numbers and signs will be different under normal operating conditions.

Why can't you reply to repeated requests since january on 'What is wrong with your build ?'.
We have no idea about your signal level conditions, what parts you have fitted or whatever additional circuits you might have included to your unit.
 
Hi there, great forum.

2 days ago i started soldering the clone, i had almost all the parts laying arround for like 6 years and never touched it.
So today i,m finished soldering for now.  The 3 VCA's and a 3.9mOhm resistance on the control pcb board are the only things i'm missing, i ordered those so i have to wait.

So while waiting for the order i started testing the voltages (ofcourse with the 8 chips disconnected)

Here are the voltages.


AC input = 233 volts (europe)
ac output 1 = 23,3 volts
ac output 2 = 23,3 volts

dc +15 rail = 15,1 volts
dc - 15 rail = 20,0 volts

dc +12 rail = 12,6 volts
dc - 12 rail = 11,9 volts

I tested with the control pcb connected and also with the control pcb disconnected, the voltages stay the same!

So the first thing i notice: strange the ac transformer gives 2 x 23.3 volts on my volt meter!  It's the pcb mounted transformer and its discription says input 230 volts, output 2 x 18 volts.  But i guess it doesnt matter much since there are voltage regulators on the pcb.

Next:  why do i get 20 volts on the -15 volt rail?

And: my 12v rails are good? the +12,6 isnt too high compared to the -11,9?

Sorry, my english isnt that good! I learned english by watching southpark.

 
lovemusic said:
So the first thing i notice: strange the ac transformer gives 2 x 23.3 volts on my volt meter!  It's the pcb mounted transformer and its discription says input 230 volts, output 2 x 18 volts.  But i guess it doesnt matter much since there are voltage regulators on the pcb.
Welcome. Transformer will be 2x 18VAC when you draw the amount of current it is rated for. Secondary voltages will be higher unloaded.

Next:  why do i get 20 volts on the -15 volt rail?
From your (ofcourse with the 8 chips disconnected) the voltage regulators see no load. The 7915 is a littlke more picky in this regard. A temporary load resistor between -15V rail and 0V reference voltage, maybe in range 750R .. 1K5 for a 20..10mA load, would show if the 7915 vreg behaves correctly.

And: my 12v rails are good? the +12,6 isnt too high compared to the -11,9?
+12.6V is at the end of vregs allowed tolerance range, but still within specs and might come closer to +12.0V with a little more load (your disconnected chips) connected. Your TL07x opamps and the sc-VCA won't care, but ratio might drift a little. Catch ratio drift for best average by tweaking the 127K* resistor.
 
Oke thanks for the fast answer!

So i can connect all the chips now and check if the voltages are oke?  Remember i dont have the three VCA's yet.
 
Oke i tested with all the chips in.

I get now the following results

+15 rail gives = 15,18 volts
- 15 rail gives = 15,15 volts

+ 12 rail gives = 12,67 volts
- 12 rail gives = 11,93 volts

So the 15 volt rails are now very good! The 12 volt rails didnt change at all with the load of all the chips in.

Is there something i can do about the 12 volt rails?  for now i'm very happy,  cant wait till the VCA's and meter comes in.



 
Has any one used the "nte858m" op amp in place of the "tl072"?  I asked for the "tl072" at my local electronics store and was given the "nte858m". I didn't realize this till I arrived at home.  I've done a bit of research and it seems they are the same op amp, just made by different companies.  I also saw the "ne5532" was the same which I don't think is correct.  I just wanted to check here to see if anyone had problems using the "nte858m" in place of the "tl072".
 
Harpo said:
phancak said:
Where can be the problem?
You probably have the sidechain VCA fitted for these -only for debugging purpose by breaking the sidechain feedback loop- test conditions. Numbers and signs will be different under normal operating conditions.

Why can't you reply to repeated requests since january on 'What is wrong with your build ?'.
We have no idea about your signal level conditions, what parts you have fitted or whatever additional circuits you might have included to your unit.

Harpo. Why only me did not answer my questions?
All guys you give the answer not just me. Partiality?
 
phancak said:
Harpo said:
phancak said:
Where can be the problem?
You probably have the sidechain VCA fitted for these -only for debugging purpose by breaking the sidechain feedback loop- test conditions. Numbers and signs will be different under normal operating conditions.

Why can't you reply to repeated requests since january on 'What is wrong with your build ?'.
We have no idea about your signal level conditions, what parts you have fitted or whatever additional circuits you might have included to your unit.
Harpo. Why only me did not answer my questions?
All guys you give the answer not just me. Partiality?
??? Obviously a language thing when you accuse me not to answer your questions and quoting my answer to your question in the same post ...
There shouldn't be a single question from your 17 posts  left unanswered and it seems it is you who never have answered.

 
I just finished my VU mod from expat audio and would like it to read the left and right outputs as well as gain reduction.  I'm a little confused about how to wire the switch.  Do I want to wire the output into the switch and then into the meter? Or do I wire it to the meter then take it to the switch?  I am very lost on this and if some one can explain how it is wired up I would be great full.
 
wartornrex said:
I just finished my VU mod from expat audio and would like it to read the left and right outputs as well as gain reduction.  I'm a little confused about how to wire the switch.  Do I want to wire the output into the switch and then into the meter? Or do I wire it to the meter then take it to the switch?  I am very lost on this and if some one can explain how it is wired up I would be great full.
The expat build manual doesn't leave any of your questions unanswered how to connect your true VU-meter in series with a 3K9 to both switch poles and how to hook up your switch throw positions to L-in/L-out/R-in/R-out/Gr or other/less permutations.
 
Harpo said:
wartornrex said:
I just finished my VU mod from expat audio and would like it to read the left and right outputs as well as gain reduction.  I'm a little confused about how to wire the switch.  Do I want to wire the output into the switch and then into the meter? Or do I wire it to the meter then take it to the switch?  I am very lost on this and if some one can explain how it is wired up I would be great full.
The expat build manual doesn't leave any of your questions unanswered how to connect your true VU-meter in series with a 3K9 to both switch poles and how to hook up your switch throw positions to L-in/L-out/R-in/R-out/Gr or other/less permutations.

I do understand that there are schematics on how to hook up the switch.  Schematics that are pretty much jibber ish to me as I don't understand how to read it.  I'm assuming from your response that the VU meter goes to the input poles and the I/O of the left and right go to the output poles.  I thought this thread was for people to ask questions about things they don't understand so that's what I did.  I don't understand how to read the schematics so I asked. 

Also has anyone tried using the nte858m op amp in place of the tl072? 
 
wartornrex said:
I do understand that there are schematics on how to hook up the switch.  Schematics that are pretty much jibber ish to me as I don't understand how to read it.  I'm assuming from your response that the VU meter goes to the input poles and the I/O of the left and right go to the output poles.  I thought this thread was for people to ask questions about things they don't understand so that's what I did.  I don't understand how to read the schematics so I asked.
??? 9 pages of a build manual with pics showing how to assemble and connect it for various configs (and without full schematic).
How about reading it  ;)
 

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