radiance
Well-known member
Well, I'm not Jakob but let me answer your question. Yes, 63v will do. Just make sure they're not too BIG.
GSSL HELP THREAD!!!
- Thread starter hairyandy
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
Don't worry about that - it's a minor schematic error.
Jakob E.
Jakob E.
mike_relay
Well-known member
do the .1mfd caps need to me metalized polyester? or can they be ceramics?
thanks,
mike
thanks,
mike
Nele
Well-known member
Hi,
I've noticed that my ssl-unit is distorting in bypass-mode. it is hooked up directly to my RME-multiface. could the output-levels of the multiface be too high or is something wrong?
thanks!
corneel
I've noticed that my ssl-unit is distorting in bypass-mode. it is hooked up directly to my RME-multiface. could the output-levels of the multiface be too high or is something wrong?
thanks!
corneel
G
Guest
Guest
I'm having some meter problems. I read through the first 25 pages or so, but didn't see anything about this. If I understand some of the other posts about pegged meters, the meter STAYS at the top of the scale, which mine isn't doing. But maybe it's the same problem? With no audio, when I turn the threshhold knob, my sifam meter goes all the way to the top of the scale, and then settles back down to 0. That happens if I turn the knob all the way up or all the way down. If I turn it somewhere in the middle, it usually jumps to the top and settles somewhere in the middle of the scale. My pot is not the right one, however. I used Greg's US parts list and got the 50K pot on there (Digikey, CT2207-ND), but the bushing and shaft are the wrong size. The value is right, though, so I wouldn't think that would be a problem. Anybody have an idea of what it might be? I've checked my soldering and it looks good.
David.
David.
[quote author="Nele"]Hi,
I've noticed that my ssl-unit is distorting in bypass-mode. it is hooked up directly to my RME-multiface. could the output-levels of the multiface be too high or is something wrong?
thanks!
corneel[/quote]
i had the same problem...try to adjust your rme card,if it has jumpers fot the levels...otherwise-which sequencer do you use?if you have logic you could adjust the levels inside the helper plugin
I've noticed that my ssl-unit is distorting in bypass-mode. it is hooked up directly to my RME-multiface. could the output-levels of the multiface be too high or is something wrong?
thanks!
corneel[/quote]
i had the same problem...try to adjust your rme card,if it has jumpers fot the levels...otherwise-which sequencer do you use?if you have logic you could adjust the levels inside the helper plugin
HI all. I built another GSSL and the sidechain (no compression) is not working. The voltages look good I think. The weird thing is that quite a few resisters on the sidechain section have changed values since they have been put in the board:
3M3 is now .63ohm
1M is now 293K
10K is now 47ohm (the one next to the other two 47R resisters)
100K is now 64K
the four together
220K is now 42K
100K is now 70K
620K is now 70K
100K is now 70K
Any ideas what is going on?
The resisters in the power and channel sections all seem to shake out well.
3M3 is now .63ohm
1M is now 293K
10K is now 47ohm (the one next to the other two 47R resisters)
100K is now 64K
the four together
220K is now 42K
100K is now 70K
620K is now 70K
100K is now 70K
Any ideas what is going on?
The resisters in the power and channel sections all seem to shake out well.
[quote author="Coldsnow"]HI all. I built another GSSL and the sidechain (no compression) is not working. The voltages look good I think. The weird thing is that quite a few resisters on the sidechain section have changed values since they have been put in the board:
3M3 is now .63ohm
1M is now 293K
10K is now 47ohm (the one next to the other two 47R resisters)
100K is now 64K
the four together
220K is now 42K
100K is now 70K
620K is now 70K
100K is now 70K
Any ideas what is going on?
The resisters in the power and channel sections all seem to shake out well.[/quote]if you have measured the resistors on the board,then its clear that they dont have the same values anymore ...you shoud check the colourcode to make sure that you put in the right types...you can try this link:http://www.elexp.com/t_resist.htm...also check your board for shorts very carefully :grin:
3M3 is now .63ohm
1M is now 293K
10K is now 47ohm (the one next to the other two 47R resisters)
100K is now 64K
the four together
220K is now 42K
100K is now 70K
620K is now 70K
100K is now 70K
Any ideas what is going on?
The resisters in the power and channel sections all seem to shake out well.[/quote]if you have measured the resistors on the board,then its clear that they dont have the same values anymore ...you shoud check the colourcode to make sure that you put in the right types...you can try this link:http://www.elexp.com/t_resist.htm...also check your board for shorts very carefully :grin:
Remember that you can't measure resistors in-circuit to any degree of precision - other components will load them. You need to unsolder and lift one end of them to measure.
And measuring with power on gives even more deviation from real value..
Jakob E.
And measuring with power on gives even more deviation from real value..
Jakob E.
dufo
Well-known member
[quote author="twitchmonitor"]I'm having some meter problems. I read through the first 25 pages or so, but didn't see anything about this. If I understand some of the other posts about pegged meters, the meter STAYS at the top of the scale, which mine isn't doing. But maybe it's the same problem? With no audio, when I turn the threshhold knob, my sifam meter goes all the way to the top of the scale, and then settles back down to 0. That happens if I turn the knob all the way up or all the way down. If I turn it somewhere in the middle, it usually jumps to the top and settles somewhere in the middle of the scale. My pot is not the right one, however. I used Greg's US parts list and got the 50K pot on there (Digikey, CT2207-ND), but the bushing and shaft are the wrong size. The value is right, though, so I wouldn't think that would be a problem. Anybody have an idea of what it might be? I've checked my soldering and it looks good.
I have the same problem. I am using the right pots. I got no idea what it could be though...
David.[/quote]
I have the same problem. I am using the right pots. I got no idea what it could be though...
David.[/quote]
radiance
Well-known member
[quote author="dufo"][quote author="twitchmonitor"]I'm having some meter problems. I read through the first 25 pages or so, but didn't see anything about this. If I understand some of the other posts about pegged meters, the meter STAYS at the top of the scale, which mine isn't doing. But maybe it's the same problem? With no audio, when I turn the threshhold knob, my sifam meter goes all the way to the top of the scale, and then settles back down to 0. That happens if I turn the knob all the way up or all the way down. If I turn it somewhere in the middle, it usually jumps to the top and settles somewhere in the middle of the scale. My pot is not the right one, however. I used Greg's US parts list and got the 50K pot on there (Digikey, CT2207-ND), but the bushing and shaft are the wrong size. The value is right, though, so I wouldn't think that would be a problem. Anybody have an idea of what it might be? I've checked my soldering and it looks good.
I have the same problem. I am using the right pots. I got no idea what it could be though...
David.[/quote][/quote]
:?
I have the same problem. I am using the right pots. I got no idea what it could be though...
David.[/quote][/quote]
:?
rrs
Well-known member
Hi this is my first DIY project (GSSL) an first post on this forum. I have got all the parts I need including a Toroidal 15+15V Transformer part MT2086 from Jaycar here in Australia.
My question is basicaly where to connect the wires. I did a search and found this question addressed but still have questions. http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=4924&highlight=toroidal+transformer+15v015v+20va
It was stated here that red and white were the centre tap, yellow and purple 15V and the two Orange go to wall socket.There seem to be two places to put these on the board and as I have already put the bridge to the centre of the PCB I guess going of pic's I've seen I should connect transformer wires closer to it and not in corner where it says (mount if external transformer)
Anyway if this is where I am going to put them what goes where?Where does the centre tap go?I seem to have 4 holes to place the 4 different wires but still don't know where they go on the board.
This may be basic to you guys but I am a beginner and know very little but am willing to learn. :green:
My question is basicaly where to connect the wires. I did a search and found this question addressed but still have questions. http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=4924&highlight=toroidal+transformer+15v015v+20va
It was stated here that red and white were the centre tap, yellow and purple 15V and the two Orange go to wall socket.There seem to be two places to put these on the board and as I have already put the bridge to the centre of the PCB I guess going of pic's I've seen I should connect transformer wires closer to it and not in corner where it says (mount if external transformer)
Anyway if this is where I am going to put them what goes where?Where does the centre tap go?I seem to have 4 holes to place the 4 different wires but still don't know where they go on the board.
This may be basic to you guys but I am a beginner and know very little but am willing to learn. :green:
radiance
Well-known member
First off all, check the data sheet off your toroid transformer just in case...
About the wires: Yes, you're right. Since you soldered the bridge rectefier where you did, you should use the four holes intended for the small transformer (on the pcb). The center tap goes to the two middle holes (holes 2 and 3)and one +15 tap goes to hole 1, and the other +15 tap goes to hole 4.
To make sure everything is wired correct have a close look at the pcb.
The two center tap holes (hole 2 and 3) are connected to eachother and to the ground plane off the pcb.
Now follow the two +15 leads. The should both be connected too the AC leads (~)off your bridge rectefier.
About the wires: Yes, you're right. Since you soldered the bridge rectefier where you did, you should use the four holes intended for the small transformer (on the pcb). The center tap goes to the two middle holes (holes 2 and 3)and one +15 tap goes to hole 1, and the other +15 tap goes to hole 4.
To make sure everything is wired correct have a close look at the pcb.
The two center tap holes (hole 2 and 3) are connected to eachother and to the ground plane off the pcb.
Now follow the two +15 leads. The should both be connected too the AC leads (~)off your bridge rectefier.
rrs
Well-known member
Thanx radiance now I know where they go on the board :grin: unfortunetly the transformer from jaycar comes with no information not even on their web site.
The information I am going off is from a similar question posted on this site saying
Yellow=0V
Red=+V
White=0V
Purple=+V
So is red and purple +15?
Does anybody know where I can get info on Toroidal 15 + 15 20V on the web.
Help appreciated. :green:
The information I am going off is from a similar question posted on this site saying
Yellow=0V
Red=+V
White=0V
Purple=+V
So is red and purple +15?
Does anybody know where I can get info on Toroidal 15 + 15 20V on the web.
Help appreciated. :green:
dirk666
Active member
My ssl type is almost complete, all I have to do is the power supply.
local voltage is 230V 50Hz(New Zealand)
The transformer I got from RS is 347-2565
This should work?
somethings I dont unerstand
0-18V -understand
2,5VA -understand
0,125AT? -this is the magnemotive force(ampere-turns, At)?
VC? 5,0/2/18 ???
I just worked out how to wire up the ac inlet (10A fuse)but which wires go from there to which pins on the primary?
Am sticking with the onboard mounting way.
Cheers, any help graceously accepted.
local voltage is 230V 50Hz(New Zealand)
The transformer I got from RS is 347-2565
This should work?
somethings I dont unerstand
0-18V -understand
2,5VA -understand
0,125AT? -this is the magnemotive force(ampere-turns, At)?
VC? 5,0/2/18 ???
I just worked out how to wire up the ac inlet (10A fuse)but which wires go from there to which pins on the primary?
Am sticking with the onboard mounting way.
Cheers, any help graceously accepted.
rrs
Well-known member
HMmmmmmmm
All wired up tripple checked for shorts VCA's right way arround caps and diodes as well have used Jaycar list for parts that Kev Ross has kindly provided but have used different brand caps (same value )from RS here in Australia.
Turned on power and smoke came billowing out of the two NE5534ap in the VCA section.
WHAT HAVE I DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
HELP PLEASE.
All wired up tripple checked for shorts VCA's right way arround caps and diodes as well have used Jaycar list for parts that Kev Ross has kindly provided but have used different brand caps (same value )from RS here in Australia.
Turned on power and smoke came billowing out of the two NE5534ap in the VCA section.
WHAT HAVE I DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
HELP PLEASE.
radiance
Well-known member
[quote author="rrs"]HMmmmmmmm
All wired up tripple checked for shorts VCA's right way arround caps and diodes as well have used Jaycar list for parts that Kev Ross has kindly provided but have used different brand caps (same value )from RS here in Australia.
Turned on power and smoke came billowing out of the two NE5534ap in the VCA section.
WHAT HAVE I DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
HELP PLEASE.[/quote]
Next time, take out all IC's (also the VCA's) before powering up. Then power up and check if all voltages are correct and next check whether the IC's are getting the right voltages or not.
All wired up tripple checked for shorts VCA's right way arround caps and diodes as well have used Jaycar list for parts that Kev Ross has kindly provided but have used different brand caps (same value )from RS here in Australia.
Turned on power and smoke came billowing out of the two NE5534ap in the VCA section.
WHAT HAVE I DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
HELP PLEASE.[/quote]
Next time, take out all IC's (also the VCA's) before powering up. Then power up and check if all voltages are correct and next check whether the IC's are getting the right voltages or not.
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