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Harpo said:
johnnyscotch said:
Harpo said:
From your pics mains transformer colour coding this might be an AnTec transformer. If so, secondaries look wired out of phase.
Yes, it's an antec trafo. It's not out of phase though. Can you elaborate?
from AnTek transformer datasheet (example for a 2x15VAC 50VA) you hook up both secondary windings in series by joining a blue with green secondary wire for the center tap connection.

Lorlin end-stop washer set to position 5 ?
again, can you elaborate? I followed the build guide instructions pretty faithfully, maybe I missed something?
Release switch is designed for 5 step positions. If you don't limit your Lorlin type rotary switch to 5 positions (by removing the fixing bolt, removing the end-stop washer below the fixing bolt, turning the switch full CCW and reseating the end-stop washer to switch pos.5), turning the switch to pos.6 will cause your described artifacts.

Ok, I see what you mean, I thought you meant audio phase. I wonder if this has mucked anything up? I only powered it on to test.

As for the switch, I'll pull it out and have a look.

Thanks for the tips!
 
Harpo said:
Lorlin end-stop washer set to position 5 ?

I guess it would be worth checking the other switches as well.

Is it like it looks? Ratio 3, Attack 6, same procedure you described?

Cheers!
 
It could be cool to have another step (one more of Auto release) for "dirt release" or such... Has anybody experimented with that?
Still looking for the BOM for the "Sidechain Ed" version btw, if I can't find it I'll do it myself with the components layout and post it here.
 
thomasdf said:
It could be cool to have another step (one more of Auto release) for "dirt release" or such... Has anybody experimented with that?
Still looking for the BOM for the "Sidechain Ed" version btw, if I can't find it I'll do it myself with the components layout and post it here.

I'd love to have this 'crush' effect like the C2. But this would also affect ratio and knee...
 
thomasdf said:
It could be cool to have another step (one more of Auto release) for "dirt release" or such... Has anybody experimented with that?
Still looking for the BOM for the "Sidechain Ed" version btw, if I can't find it I'll do it myself with the components layout and post it here.

"SC ed" is the name I gave the latest kit/manual layout, because I added a small mod, but the board is the same, so the BOM is the same. For the mod, you will need a 100nF cap and a switch in addition to the standard BOM items.

Gustav
 
thomasdf said:
Gustav, you definitely rock. I'll put a 180pF cap tho, because I want to cut at 90Hz instead of 150 ;)
I will keep you guys posted, should be over by the end of September

nF!
 
Hello guys,

I see most of GSSL projects uses Wima Capacitors 100nF/63V. Here in my country I found the Vishay MKT370. This one:

http://www.vishay.com/docs/28108/mkt370.pdf

Can I use this one insted the wima or it can change the compressor´s sound?

Thanks,
 
thomasdf said:
It will be just as fine ;)

Gustav, I calculated 0,18uF so that's 180pF to cut at 90hz with website you linked in your PDF is it wrong?

0,18uf = 180nf = 180000pf

Gustav
 
ctechdx said:
Hello guys,

I see most of GSSL projects uses Wima Capacitors 100nF/63V. Here in my country I found the Vishay MKT370. This one:

http://www.vishay.com/docs/28108/mkt370.pdf

Can I use this one insted the wima or it can change the compressor´s sound?

Thanks,

I have heard a unit with some very over-the-top decoupling caps that actually sounded slightly different from a unit I had built with the parts in the kit, but it may just as well have been due to some other variable (resistor tolerances causing a slight difference i.e.) for all I know.

I would not hesitate to use the caps you found.

I would also update my profile to reveal the country you are in :)
 
Gustav said:
ctechdx said:
Hello guys,

I see most of GSSL projects uses Wima Capacitors 100nF/63V. Here in my country I found the Vishay MKT370. This one:

http://www.vishay.com/docs/28108/mkt370.pdf

Can I use this one insted the wima or it can change the compressor´s sound?

Thanks,

I have heard a unit with some very over-the-top decoupling caps that actually sounded slightly different from a unit I had built with the parts in the kit, but it may just as well have been due to some other variable (resistor tolerances causing a slight difference i.e.) for all I know.

I would not hesitate to use the caps you found.

I would also update my profile to reveal the country you are in :)


Thanks a lot Gustav!

Then I go with the caps I found here :)

<= Look I updated my profile...  8)

I have another question... now about the resistors. Here in brazil it´s not easy to find metalfilm resistors... specially at all those values needed for this project. A friend of mine (much more experienced than me in electronics) said that I could change those resistors for typical film resistor with 1% tolerance. What you think about it? I know the resistors are important for the compressor behavior... can I also change those resistors or should be better to import it from other country? Like buying at mouser?

Thanks!
 
ctechdx said:
A friend of mine (much more experienced than me in electronics) said that I could change those resistors for typical film resistor with 1% tolerance.

Trust your friend - and for the rest of the BOM too :)

Gustav
 
Gustav said:
ctechdx said:
A friend of mine (much more experienced than me in electronics) said that I could change those resistors for typical film resistor with 1% tolerance.

Trust your friend - and for the rest of the BOM too :)

Gustav

Gustav... thanks my friend!

I have another one! hehehe

My friend also said he doesn´t see reason for 1% resistors. I have no experience to argue... He said I can use all carbon CR25 resistor or typical film with 5% tolerance without problems. What you guys think about it? I don´t want to have the compressor souding wrong... but those resistor are so much easier to find here in Brazil. It would change the compressor is some way?

Best regards from Brazil!
 
Use the metal film resistors you can find, it won't affect your compressor's behaviour as long as you use resistors with the same specification
 
weiss said:
Use the metal film resistors you can find, it won't affect your compressor's behaviour as long as you use resistors with the same specification

Thanks Weiss,

Yes I gonna use resistors with the same specification... but what about 5% or 1% tolerance? Can I have any problem using non precision resistors?

Any problem using carbon resistor with the same especification?



 
Harpo said:
Set your multimeter for measuring DC voltages in a range higher than expected, maybe 20VDC, just in case your multimeter is not auto-sensing. Plug your black wire probe into your meters [COM] terminal. Plug your red wire probe into your meters [V,Ohm,...] terminal. With GSSL powered on, you get a sign sensitive VDC readout with your black probe wire tip pointing to 0V reference voltage (the center pin of the aux.12VDC connector might come handy, or any spot at the big filled pcb traces) and red probe wire tip pointing at a spot you want to measure in respect to this 0V reference voltage, FI NE5534-pin7 or NE5532-pin8 for +15VDC, NE5534-pin4 or NE5532-pin4 for -15VDC, TL072-pin8 for +12VDC, TL072-pin4 for -12VDC, ...

Hi Harpo, I started to troubleshoot my Gssl finally. Can you kindly direct me as to where the 0V reference is on the PCB please? And what do you mean exactly by the aux. 12VDC?
 
rearturo said:
Can you kindly direct me as to where the 0V reference is on the PCB please?
echo answer "the center pin of the aux.12VDC connector might come handy, or any spot at the big filled pcb traces"
And what do you mean exactly by the aux. 12VDC?
The auxiliary 12VDC supply rail, coming from the 7812 voltage regulator, maybe useful for supplying relais, incandescent lamps, LEDs,..., as you don't want any additional load at the 78L12. This additional/optional on board +12V supply rail goes to a 3-pin connector. The center pin of this 3-pin connector that connects to 0V reference voltage is the pin in the middle. The pcb silkscreen has this connector labled "+12V 0V NC, RELAY AND LIGHT POWER" ;)
 
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