GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[Gustav]

And the last pic, covering the rest of the pcb.  If anyone sees anything please respond.  I build aerospace structures, but am not quite adept at troubleshooting, I bought these pre-stuffed from a member.  After probably $1000 worth of parts and payments I long for this unit to be functioning.  I will not sell it! All help is greatly appreciated.

I wonder what those VCAs are!?

Gustav

 

[Gustav]

Hey, first I want to thank the people that help all the beginners and first timers here!
As I'm also one of them I hope you can help me too
Okay, I populated the board and now I'm placing my (hopefully) last order. After I ordered the false power toggle switch (https://www.reichelt.de/Kippschalter/KS-C3900/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=5000&GROUP=C21&GROUPID=3275&ARTICLE=105429&START=0&SORT=artnr&OFFSET=500)
I now want to be sure the one I'm about to order is going to work.
http://www.digikey.de/product-detail/de/M2022ES1W01/360-1832-ND/1006911
This is the Power Transformator I have
https://www.reichelt.de/Ringkerntrafos/RKT-3015/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=5000&GROUP=C55&GROUPID=4539&ARTICLE=15275&START=0&SORT=artnr&OFFSET=500

I would also like to use the Power LED thats included in the PCB Grinder Kit and the Meter LEDs. Can I power them both with the auxiliary 12V output?
I'm building the basic Rev. 11 GSSL without any mods.

The second switch seems to be a mini toggle rated for 125V max. 

And you can draw auxiliary power for both the meter and power LED from the 12V, as long as you drop the voltage.

Gustav

 

[WannaBee]

And the last pic, covering the rest of the pcb.  If anyone sees anything please respond.  I build aerospace structures, but am not quite adept at troubleshooting, I bought these pre-stuffed from a member.  After probably $1000 worth of parts and payments I long for this unit to be functioning.  I will not sell it! All help is greatly appreciated.

I wonder what those VCAs are!?

Gustav

2150a, and 2181 as I believe are appropriate...

 

[Gustav]

And the last pic, covering the rest of the pcb.  If anyone sees anything please respond.  I build aerospace structures, but am not quite adept at troubleshooting, I bought these pre-stuffed from a member.  After probably $1000 worth of parts and payments I long for this unit to be functioning.  I will not sell it! All help is greatly appreciated.

I wonder what those VCAs are!?

Gustav

2150a, and 2181 as I believe are appropriate...

I called up your list of posts to see if I could see what your issues were, but I couldn't find anything. If I missed it, a link along with the pictures would be helpfull.

Gustav

 

[Murdock]

Hey, first I want to thank the people that help all the beginners and first timers here!
As I'm also one of them I hope you can help me too
Okay, I populated the board and now I'm placing my (hopefully) last order. After I ordered the false power toggle switch (https://www.reichelt.de/Kippschalter/KS-C3900/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=5000&GROUP=C21&GROUPID=3275&ARTICLE=105429&START=0&SORT=artnr&OFFSET=500)
I now want to be sure the one I'm about to order is going to work.
http://www.digikey.de/product-detail/de/M2022ES1W01/360-1832-ND/1006911
This is the Power Transformator I have
https://www.reichelt.de/Ringkerntrafos/RKT-3015/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=5000&GROUP=C55&GROUPID=4539&ARTICLE=15275&START=0&SORT=artnr&OFFSET=500

I would also like to use the Power LED thats included in the PCB Grinder Kit and the Meter LEDs. Can I power them both with the auxiliary 12V output?
I'm building the basic Rev. 11 GSSL without any mods.

The second switch seems to be a mini toggle rated for 125V max. 

And you can draw auxiliary power for both the meter and power LED from the 12V, as long as you drop the voltage.

Gustav

Hey, thanks for your answer.
So, I need a Switch that has a power rating of minimum 230V AC? Something like this:
http://www.digikey.de/product-detail/de/GTS448B301AHR/CWI298-ND/3193566
or this
http://www.sinequanon.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=45_153&products_id=975

And am I right, that I need a 330 Ohm resistor for the red power LED included in the Kit? The Meter LED has a built in 600 Ohm resistance. So I don't need any resistor for that.
How do I wire/solder this? Where would I place the resistor for the red LED on the board? On the schematics on Controll PCB, there is a place for the Power On LED. Should I solder the LED in there and change the 1K resistor that is next to it to a 330R Resistor? And the two LED wires that come from the Panel meter. Can I put them both trough the 12V hole on the Main PCB?

 

[WannaBee]

And the last pic, covering the rest of the pcb.  If anyone sees anything please respond.  I build aerospace structures, but am not quite adept at troubleshooting, I bought these pre-stuffed from a member.  After probably $1000 worth of parts and payments I long for this unit to be functioning.  I will not sell it! All help is greatly appreciated.

I wonder what those VCAs are!?

Gustav

2150a, and 2181 as I believe are appropriate...

I called up your list of posts to see if I could see what your issues were, but I couldn't find anything. If I missed it, a link along with the pictures would be helpfull.

Gustav

I've made three posts on this thread since yesterday, that is all I've done to address my problems thus far here at GroupDIY. Any help is greatly appreciated...

 

[Gustav]

And the last pic, covering the rest of the pcb.  If anyone sees anything please respond.  I build aerospace structures, but am not quite adept at troubleshooting, I bought these pre-stuffed from a member.  After probably $1000 worth of parts and payments I long for this unit to be functioning.  I will not sell it! All help is greatly appreciated.

I wonder what those VCAs are!?

Gustav

2150a, and 2181 as I believe are appropriate...

I called up your list of posts to see if I could see what your issues were, but I couldn't find anything. If I missed it, a link along with the pictures would be helpfull.

Gustav

I've made three posts on this thread since yesterday, that is all I've done to address my problems thus far here at GroupDIY. Any help is greatly appreciated...

So your only question is "does the PCB look like its stuffed correctly" ?

In that case, after taking  a look at your pictures (top only, no soldering shown), the answer is yes.

Gustav

 

[WannaBee]

Thank you very much Gustav, I will post a pic of the soldering shortly for inspection.  Your help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Mazieresantoine]

Hi Gustav, and every one who helps me


I just do again my soldier of the dectection VCA and it's work again like the first date, it stay all the night compressing and sounds good!
Thnaks for your help again!

I can put again my SSC card now.

I post a picture of my gssl when it's finish

 

[Jeffhucik]

I've been searching this board all night and can't find my answer  :-\
I have the suggested EAO push button switch for using a push button bypass.. I am not using a side chain board. I can't find anything on how to construct the relay board I've been reading about to get it to work since it doesn't have 3 poles. Any help? I don't want to come off a lazy because I really have tried to find this information. This is a PCB Grinder Kit

I'm very sorry that I didn't post information. I have the EAO 01.281.025- it's a DPDT with 1-2-3-4 pins and 2 I believe are for the lamp. I want to use it as a bypass in place of the rotary switch. Want the lamp to illuminate once engaged does anyone have any ideas? I can provide further information if needed. Don't know if it matters but I'm also adding the Expat Audio CRC and Turbo boards.

 

[G-Sun]

Does this pcb look to be stuffed correctly?

Seems fine to me. If there's no empty spaces, it's stuffed.
If there are some empty spaces, you need to check if that's how it should be or not.
You should also double-check orientation of capacitors, diodes and ICs (+,-, 1)

 

[Mowenw]

Hello GSSL Help chat,

First post and I realize this isn't a help chat although there are 300+ pages and the first 20 pages that I read contained a lot of information that was either unrelated to my specific problem or irrelevant.

With that, I will explain my situation and for those that might happen upon my post and have a solution for me, I would welcome the information or advice. For those who don't want/can't  help then I would ask that you refrain from commenting on my post......with respect.

The problem - Right Channel not working.

Troubleshot and have found that right channel VCA section 5534 IC is overheating + THAT appears to distort the signal when placed in left VCA section (working).

Also, when I turn the limiter on it first produces white noise, no LED, no signal from mic. Once turned off and turned back on again the right channel starts working and LED lights up. However, I have to power up and down every time I want to use the device.

I originally mixed up the semi-circle regulators and I imagine this caused some issues.

I have ordered a replacement 5534 and THAT 2180 so I'll swap those out and see what happens. While I'm waiting for them to arrive though I thought it might be worth posting something here.

Anyway, any help appreciated.

MAtt.

 

[gyraf]

MAtt,

Sounds like a supply latch-up problem. We've discussed this before.

If the 7xL12 regulators were powered while in wrong position, they're probably dead.

Have you verified your supply voltages?

VCA-driver getting hot is probably a solder short or a wrong value component.

Jakob E.

 

[Mowenw]

MAtt,

Sounds like a supply latch-up problem. We've discussed this before.

If the 7xL12 regulators were powered while in wrong position, they're probably dead.

Have you verified your supply voltages?

VCA-driver getting hot is probably a solder short or a wrong value component.

Jakob E.

Thanks for the pointers. REally appreciate it.

Ok. So I've sorted out the solder problem with the IC. That seems to be running ok now.

I've also replaced the 78L and 79L regulators.

From what I understand, the latch-up problem is a manufacturing problem that exists in certain batches of the mosfets.

Well, I've swapped them out as well and the powering up issue has gone away and for the first time I am getting some sort of signal through both channels. So, there has been an improvement.

That said, there are still a lot of bad things happening!

Firstly there is loads of gain which is causing feedback (in my headphones!) and obviously distortion when speaking through the mic. The right side is massively fuzzy whereas the left channel has a little more clarity, but not much.

Also, whilst the LED is lighting up fine now, the pots and bypass don't appear to be affecting the signal in anyway (although it is difficult to tell with so much gain/distortion). The meter also appears to be working ok.

So ye, what I'd like to do now is measure the voltage as you said. The only thing is , I don't exactly where I should be measuring. If you could point me in the direction that'd be wonderful.

Thanks!

 

[Script]

Sounds like you better checked the entire board again.

Solder Bridges:
Check the entire board for other solder bridges. It's tight on that board and bridges might be difficult to see (bright lighting & magnifying glass & something to scratch off raisin between joints to look underneath).

Cabling:
Are the pots etc connected correctly? How about AR and ratio switches?

Component Values:
Check all capacitors & resistors (resistors especially, since they easily get mixed up during stuffing like 10R  instead of 10K). You mixed up the regulators, so not unlikely there are other mistakes. But no problem, happens to me too, and I'm anal about my resistors, measuring them at least twice before stuffing -- my Zen meditation

Measurements:
If all is fine, check the thread for voltage measurement lists. Could use "Print" view (top right of the thread) and search function of your browser (gives you all posts in one browser window). Voltage supply  measurements are best done on IC sockets with ICs unplugged.

 

[Mowenw]

Sounds like you better checked the entire board again.

Solder Bridges:
Check the entire board for other solder bridges. It's tight on that board and bridges might be difficult to see (bright lighting & magnifying glass & something to scratch off raisin between joints to look underneath).

Cabling:
Are the pots etc connected correctly? How about AR and ratio switches?

Component Values:
Check all capacitors & resistors (resistors especially, since they easily get mixed up during stuffing like 10R  instead of 10K). You mixed up the regulators, so not unlikely there are other mistakes. But no problem, happens to me too, and I'm anal about my resistors, measuring them at least twice before stuffing -- my Zen meditation

Measurements:
If all is fine, check the thread for voltage measurement lists. Could use "Print" view (top right of the thread) and search function of your browser (gives you all posts in one browser window). Voltage supply  measurements are best done on IC sockets with ICs unplugged.

Thankyou very much mister Script,

The weird thing is , is that at some point or another everything has worked pretty much. I mean, not all at the same time, but the pots were working , the bypass was working and all the front panel stuff was behaving correctly.  It just seems as if the problem is always one step ahead of me!

I will check the solder joints again. I am however around about 90% sure they are all ok. I have tried to avoid asking for help on here as I don't want to be burden and also I don't want to reveal the full extent to which I am pretty much electronically ignorant. (I have managed to build a JLM and Fivefish though so not complete novice.)........and anyway, ye, I've pretty much spent the last two weeks going over and over the solder joints and schematics. So it'd have to be something very very sneaky. That said, I will go over it again. No harm in that.

Do you think it might just be one of the THAT vca's that is causing hyper-gain and distortion. Could that be a symptom of bad VCA's ? I just get the feeling that is where the problem lies. I have some on order so will soon know . I was just wondering though .....

Uhh, I'll check the IC sockets  now. Thanks again. 

 

[Mowenw]

guess who's back....

I've been trying to get some voltage readings....

Now, I don't really know how to do this so I had a look on here and managed to find a thing or two that helped.

So , I put the black probe on a ground point, on a cap I think....and measured the IC sockets at pins 7/8.

The results were a bit inconclusive...

I got a 14.66 VDC measurement from pin 8 on the 5532 sockets. That was about the best I could manage. When trying on the pin 8 on on the 5534 and TL072's I didn't really get any reading at all. I sometimes got a number that fluctuated or diminished incrementally. I'll get a new battery for the MM tomorrow just in case that is the issue.

Again any pointers would be great. I'm at a loss at the moment to work out what else it could be , taking into consideration that the solder points are good and resistors and caps appear intact.

I can only think that it might still be the regulators or THAT's. I've swapped out the rest of the chips and they don't affect anything. I have however also changed out the regulators so I suppose that can also be eliminated. How might I go about checking the regulators. Which leg is the positive and will a voltage reading tell me whether or not they are functional ?

Over..

 

[Gustav]

I got a 14.66 VDC measurement from pin 8 on the 5532 sockets. That was about the best I could manage. When trying on the pin 8 on on the 5534 and TL072's I didn't really get any reading at all.

Sounds like you are referencing to ground correctly. Thats half the victory.

You can always google "part name - pinout" in google image search and look at the pinout. 

Try it for the 5532, and you will see pin 8 is V+.
You should also be able to see which pin to expect the negative current on and measure that.

In this project, you have  15V and 12V regulators, so you know those are the voltages you are looking for on active parts, even if you can't trace them in the schematic (Try tracing them, though. Even if you have to make sense of it after measuring, you will learn something.

Gustav

 

[Mowenw]

Thanks again for the pointers.

I have measured all the opamps 34/32 ....... They are all reading around about 14.95 VDC on pin 7/8 (respectively) and -14.95 on pin 4.

The sidechain 2180 is getting 12v on pin 7 and -2.80 on pin 5.

The 2180's on the VCA sections are getting 14.90 and -2.80 (pin7/pin 5)

This was done populated.

 

[Mowenw]

Another update...

I just measured the sockets unpopulated.

5532 -  pin 8 15vdc  pin 4  -14.90 vdc
5534 - pin 7  15vdc  pin 4 -14.90  vdc
L072 - pin 8  12 vdc  pin 4  -11.80 vdc
L074 - pin 4  12 vdc  pin11 -11.79vdc

THAT VCA R- pin 7 15vdc  pin 5 -14.80vdc
THAT VCA L - pin 7 15vdc pin 5 - 14.80vdc
THAT Sidechain - pin 7 12vdc pin 5 -7.81 vdc

I'm still getting heavily distorted audio.

I also tried putting a jumper from pin 1-8 on the 1280 VCA's and I got a clean signal.

This aside, I've re-checked the component values and orientation and everything is fine.

I've also reflowed all solder joints and have check thoroughly for bridges. There aren't any.

Is there anyone that can tell me whether anything can be established from the above info ???

I don't really know what the next step would be.

Thanks.