GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[Harpo]

I have actually installed the push-button bypass/onoff now as well.

Wouldn't compress without the switch installed correctly for at least both switch poles and whatever your push-button bypass switch might be exactly. There is a reason, these push-button switches most often only operate a relay, that in return does the required switching job for the number of poles needed.

I can't imagine that there are any issues with soldering or component orientation

Looking back in this thread, by a >90% chance most often this is the issue.

Do the TL072/074 have anything to do with front panel control ?

Anything ? Exclusively !

 

[Mowenw]

I have actually installed the push-button bypass/onoff now as well.

Wouldn't compress without the switch installed correctly for at least both switch poles and whatever your push-button bypass switch might be exactly. There is a reason, these push-button switches most often only operate a relay, that in return does the required switching job for the number of poles needed.

I can't imagine that there are any issues with soldering or component orientation

Looking back in this thread, by a >90% chance most often this is the issue.

Do the TL072/074 have anything to do with front panel control ?

Anything ? Exclusively !

RE. Bypass switches. I bought them from Frank frontpanels. They are supposed to be similar to the originals.  I followed the instructions sent to me by Frank. A pretty standard mod on here , no ?

RE. 90%. As things turned out, it appeared that that I should have been more confident with regard solder work as I turned out to be 100% on the money about that statement. The soldering was fine. It was the 2180 chips. Or at least something to do with them. If anything the control panel pcb is a lot simpler and whilst I have no problem with going over the solder joints for the seventh time, previous experience makes me more suspicious of other possible issues.

When you say that the TL072/TL074 chips have "exclusively" to do with the front panel control do you mean these chips are solely responsible for the controls ? Does the sidechain THAT chip also have an effect on front panel control ?  Does this sidechain VCA also have some effect on the bypass relay ?

The reason I ask is that the THAT chip I have in the sidechain is the only one I haven't swapped out, and I suppose there is a good chance that is is also faulty. If it is possible that this offending part might be responsible for all of the front panel issues then I will leave it till the other one I have on order arrives.

Ta

 

[Mowenw]

To use a 2150a in the sidechain what would I alter in terms of resistors. At the moment it is set up for 2180b's.

Ta

 

[Gustav]

So, anyone in EU interested to complete one GSSL with SC board? 

So i'm willing to pay 50 EUR + shipping both ways. Not joking.

All the boards are populated, and the unit should be working, but it isn't. I simply no longer have time or nerves to do the guess work (why/how/where). Which is why i'm looking for someone who worked on this. Someone who can find the error, calibrate the unit and send it back to me.

At this stage the unit does not even obtain +15V. While TS7815 work ok, as soon as its output pin is connected to the board,  voltage drops from +14.7 to 0. There is no short between TS7815 out pin and GND (i used silicone isolation for both regulators so they don't touch the backs of the unit or the screws). Neither there is a short on the PCB board between +15V rail and GND. Which is why i give up. There's nothing more i can think of.  ;D

I doubt anyone would offer their time for 50 euros, especially since theres no way of telling how much work will have to go into troubleshooting this before its ready to go.

Have you tried stripping the unit down to the bare essentials and taking it from there?

Started measuring voltages with no ICs, then with ICs in?

I am sure we can help you come up with more things to check. And when you say you are sure +15V is not shorted to ground, do you mean just the pins of the regulators, or you are 100% sure you dont have a short to ground (or somewhere else)?

Gustav

 

[tzman]

Have you tried swapping the regulators with a better brand?

 

[vaktmesterj]

Hi!

Im just about done with my gssl kit from pcbgrinder. All measurments are what they should be except one (see picture)
Anyone got an idea what it could be? I have not inserted any chips into sockets yet, could that be it?

 

[vaktmesterj]

Nevermind, forgot a jumper... All good

 

[Don Solaris]

Have you tried swapping the regulators with a better brand?

Wow! It was the regulator! I can't believe.

Thank you sir very much!!!!!!

As i was removing chips i've noticed the +15V would start appearing more often.  The less chips, the more times unit would "boot" with +15V on. So it wasn't one particular chip that would make the unit go crazy. This rang the bell - it must be the regulator. And you bet it was!

 

[Mowenw]

Hello,

Going to try again.

Can someone just list the possible causes of a front panel that is not functioning properly. If there are a lot of possible causes, can you list the top five places to look.

I have checked soldering and it is ok.

I have also added the push-button relay as sold by frank front panels.

I was unable to get an answer to this previously and whilst I have searched through smart search, as many diy enthusiasts I work full time and cannot read through everything.

Is there anywhere I can go for more immediate advice as I am unable to get personal troubleshooting through the company that supplied me with the kit ?

Matt.

 

[Gustav]

Hello,

Going to try again.

Can someone just list the possible causes of a front panel that is not functioning properly. If there are a lot of possible causes, can you list the top five places to look.

I have checked soldering and it is ok.

I have also added the push-button relay as sold by frank front panels.

I was unable to get an answer to this previously and whilst I have searched through smart search, as many diy enthusiasts I work full time and cannot read through everything.

Is there anywhere I can go for more immediate advice as I am unable to get personal troubleshooting through the company that supplied me with the kit ?

Matt.

1.Could you post a pic of your soldering work and the unit (top and bottom?) to start with? It would be nice to get a visual, and its an easy step to get out of the way. I believe you desoldered the whole board and put in all the components again last time I asked this - no need for anything quite that drastic, just the pics (should take a few minutes tops).

2. Would you mind restoring the unit to "stock" as in the kit assembly guide I provided, so we can work from there?

I am the company that provided you with the kit, and I have been happy to help you in this thread. I refused to go into a personal trouble shooting mail exchange with you since, frankly, I find it difficult to help you, and I find your philosophy going into trouble shooting confusing at best.

I do really want you to get a working unit out of this ,though.


Gustav

 

[Mowenw]

Hello,

Going to try again.

Can someone just list the possible causes of a front panel that is not functioning properly. If there are a lot of possible causes, can you list the top five places to look.

I have checked soldering and it is ok.

I have also added the push-button relay as sold by frank front panels.

I was unable to get an answer to this previously and whilst I have searched through smart search, as many diy enthusiasts I work full time and cannot read through everything.

Is there anywhere I can go for more immediate advice as I am unable to get personal troubleshooting through the company that supplied me with the kit ?

Matt.

1.Could you post a pic of your soldering work and the unit (top and bottom?) to start with? It would be nice to get a visual, and its an easy step to get out of the way. I believe you desoldered the whole board and put in all the components again last time I asked this - no need for anything quite that drastic, just the pics (should take a few minutes tops).

2. Would you mind restoring the unit to "stock" as in the kit assembly guide I provided, so we can work from there?

I am the company that provided you with the kit, and I have been happy to help you in this thread. I refused to go into a personal trouble shooting mail exchange with you since, frankly, I find it difficult to help you, and I find your philosophy going into trouble shooting confusing at best.

I do really want you to get a working unit out of this ,though.


Gustav

Ok. I'll get you some pics later on. Got to go to work now.

Regarding personal troubleshooting...... it is something that has been offered to be on every other build I have done. I believe a personal after-sales service is something every company should strive to offer. I have had no problems with communication with Fivefish or JLM. So don't know what to say.

Also, you are entering into personal troubleshooting here on the forum so I don't understand why it'd be so different over e-mail. In fact, I believe it would reflect better on PCB Grinder. Just my opinion.

Anyway, I'll post some pics later on.

 

[Gustav]

you are entering into personal troubleshooting here on the forum

Indeed, I am.

Will check the pics when they are here, then move to the next step.

As per trouble shooting further on. I feel like you are insisting on answers "whats wrong, dont answer my post if you dont have the definitive answer" etc type of rhetoric. I find it difficult to handle, to be honest. (Your very first post in the trouble shooting guide reflects this, and although its fine, but for the way I trouble shoot, I can't find a way through it).

I feel ike there is a better way, and it must also be stressfull for you, for example, you have posted a time spent on 70 hours for trouble shooting just 3 weeks after I shipped the kit. This is a very long time to spend without getting to the goal, and if we add some build time, it sounds like you've turned this into a full time job. I think the time could be spent more productively.

I feel like you rule out possible errors, but some of the issues you rule out are very likely to be the root of your problems. I am very confused about where youre at despite your lists during your process (maybe Im just slow!), but the current problem seems to be getting the unit to interact.

I would check the soldering, measures voltages on the ICs in the side chain, check the connectors, and very importantly, check the bypass switch set-up (VERY common to make mistakes on this). The way I understand it, you have ruled out over half of these options, not by reporting correct measurements, but by speculation (can't imagine there are any soldering problems, cuz I looked at it, Can't imagine theres a problem with the bypass switch, since its a standard mod etc) Its not productive for finding your error/s. 

Maybe I am not reading you right, but if thats the case, I just dont "get you" well enough to help you it seems.

By your own account, you have started over and removed/resoldered all  your components, so now we start over. And hopefully, others will benefit from the process being open. With you, I am not interested in doing it by mail. I find it best that others, others who may understand your trouble shooting philosophy better, have a chance to participate.

So, I propose we get back to what this thread is really intended for.

Gustav

 

[Mowenw]

you are entering into personal troubleshooting here on the forum

Indeed, I am.

Will check the pics when they are here, then move to the next step.

As per trouble shooting further on. I feel like you are insisting on answers "whats wrong, dont answer my post if you dont have the definitive answer" etc type of rhetoric. I find it difficult to handle, to be honest. (Your very first post in the trouble shooting guide reflects this, and although its fine, but for the way I trouble shoot, I can't find a way through it).

I feel ike there is a better way, and it must also be stressfull for you, for example, you have posted a time spent on 70 hours for trouble shooting just 3 weeks after I shipped the kit. This is a very long time to spend without getting to the goal, and if we add some build time, it sounds like you've turned this into a full time job. I think the time could be spent more productively.

I feel like you rule out possible errors, but some of the issues you rule out are very likely to be the root of your problems. I am very confused about where youre at despite your lists during your process (maybe Im just slow!), but the current problem seems to be getting the unit to interact.

I would check the soldering, measures voltages on the ICs in the side chain, check the connectors, and very importantly, check the bypass switch set-up (VERY common to make mistakes on this). The way I understand it, you have ruled out over half of these options, not by reporting correct measurements, but by speculation (can't imagine there are any soldering problems, cuz I looked at it, Can't imagine theres a problem with the bypass switch, since its a standard mod etc) Its not productive for finding your error/s. 

Maybe I am not reading you right, but if thats the case, I just dont "get you" well enough to help you it seems.

By your own account, you have started over and removed/resoldered all  your components, so now we start over. And hopefully, others will benefit from the process being open. With you, I am not interested in doing it by mail. I find it best that others, others who may understand your trouble shooting philosophy better, have a chance to participate.

So, I propose we get back to what this thread is really intended for.

Gustav

No worries. I'm just expressing my opinion...............which may or may not be of use.

From my point of view there have been a few different stages during this build with differing levels and areas of functionality.

First. I completed the original build and switched on. Result - I got full front panel functionality and one channel appeared to be working fine. There was nothing at all coming through the other channel. I checked over the build and discovered that the two small regulators (semi-circle ones) were in the wrong place.

Second. I took them out and put some new ones in. Result - Both channels but massively distorted and there was latching when turned on. I was told that it might be because of the 7812/7815/7915 regulators. I got new ones in. The result, no latching, still distortion from both channels. Checked voltages. Appeared to be fine.

Third stage. I have replaced the That chips with 2180a and rebuilt from scratch checking for solder issues and component value orientation issues as I went. I did not start from scratch with front panel. It remains as it was. I also installed the frontpanels push-buttons (bypass/power). I'm now getting clear audio after That chips were swapped out. When old chips are in it reverts to distorted channels.

Parts that are unresponsive now. Makeup/Threshold/Meter. Bypass switch lights up when pressed but doesn't affect the signal in anyway. This was also the case when I had the original bypass switch installed.

 

[Mowenw]

2.

 

[Mowenw]

3.

 

[Mowenw]

4.

 

[Mowenw]

5.

 

[Gustav]

Parts that are unresponsive now. Makeup/Threshold/Meter. Bypass switch lights up when pressed but doesn't affect the signal in anyway. This was also the case when I had the original bypass switch installed.

Have you had the original switch installed since you swapped the fried VCAs?

Soldering looks like fine, with the exception of pads where you are adding wires to the board. Are you tinning the wire before soldering it to the pads? If not, I would redo those parts doing that.

I would check voltages to the sedition ICs, just so its out of the way, but by your description of symptoms, I suspect the bypass switch is a problem. May not be the end of the line, but it sounds like its been done wrong.

I would check the side chain VCA (you can swap it with a known-to-be-working signal path VCA for a test).

I would revert to the bypass set-up described in the build guide and try it. Then, if that works, figure out how to implement the mod you want to do.

Gustav

 

[Mowenw]

Parts that are unresponsive now. Makeup/Threshold/Meter. Bypass switch lights up when pressed but doesn't affect the signal in anyway. This was also the case when I had the original bypass switch installed.

Have you had the original switch installed since you swapped the fried VCAs?

Soldering looks like fine, with the exception of pads where you are adding wires to the board. Are you tinning the wire before soldering it to the pads? If not, I would redo those parts doing that.

I would check voltages to the sedition ICs, just so its out of the way, but by your description of symptoms, I suspect the bypass switch is a problem. May not be the end of the line, but it sounds like its been done wrong.

I would check the side chain VCA (you can swap it with a known-to-be-working signal path VCA for a test).

I would revert to the bypass set-up described in the build guide and try it. Then, if that works, figure out how to implement the mod you want to do.

Gustav

Thanks for the answer.

bypass switch- with the original it behaved the same.....both before and after vca change.  I have also changed the VCA in the sidechain for a new one.

I think I probably tinned the wires on some but quite possibly not on all wires. That said I've checked and continuity is fine.

New bypass switch was done according to instructions from frontpanels and is correct according to the diagram. Might the frontpanels instructions be inaccurate?

I suppose that leaves the voltage check. Just to make sure, is it ok to check voltages with ic's in socket?

Also, does anyone have a tutorial for measuring AC with sine wave? That is something I tried but never got a good reading from.

Lastly, is there any documentation that someone can link that states what voltage is required at each point ?

Thanks

 

[Mowenw]

Parts that are unresponsive now. Makeup/Threshold/Meter. Bypass switch lights up when pressed but doesn't affect the signal in anyway. This was also the case when I had the original bypass switch installed.

Have you had the original switch installed since you swapped the fried VCAs?

Soldering looks like fine, with the exception of pads where you are adding wires to the board. Are you tinning the wire before soldering it to the pads? If not, I would redo those parts doing that.

I would check voltages to the sedition ICs, just so its out of the way, but by your description of symptoms, I suspect the bypass switch is a problem. May not be the end of the line, but it sounds like its been done wrong.

I would check the side chain VCA (you can swap it with a known-to-be-working signal path VCA for a test).

I would revert to the bypass set-up described in the build guide and try it. Then, if that works, figure out how to implement the mod you want to do.

Gustav

Ok. I think it might be sorted. Gustav, I think you were right and that the issue was in the bypass. I got the poles mixed up (as think was eluded to previously by Harpo). Anyway, I'm going to to test further but the threshold and meter are working and I think gain is ok too.

Will report back.

Thanks to all for persistence/patience.