GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[cray]

everything is working fine. except meter doesnt move .

after checked the wiring , meter sens. resistor. and  replaced the meter , the same problem.
it works perfect except meter . any suggestion?

cant find the problem.
light on meter working. compression working and ratios  are ok.

Hi cray, i assume you double checked your wiring already? does the meter light flicker or is it constant? does the meter move when turning the unit on?

best
weiss

No the meter does Not move  when i turn  on the. Unit  as the Other unit .

Double Check wiring . Contacts.. Resistors ..

Will Check the 10pf CAP .  Its a good idea to Put two 22pf in serie? Just in case the 10pf CAP is faulty.
Light meter is constant .

Thanks for answering !

 

[cray]

everything is working fine. except meter doesnt move .

after checked the wiring , meter sens. resistor. and  replaced the meter , the same problem.
it works perfect except meter . any suggestion?

cant find the problem.
light on meter working. compression working and ratios  are ok.

Hi cray, i assume you double checked your wiring already? does the meter light flicker or is it constant? does the meter move when turning the unit on?

best
weiss

ok,I think i have found my fault.

the meter is this one:

https://www.google.es/search?q=nissei+tr35&biw=1413&bih=780&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=QqxdVbeuIsL-Uri9gKAC&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&dpr=0.9#imgrc=kDpyhgxLo35MiM%253A%3BkJIWKXkpmA1mnM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fimg.auctiva.com%252Fimgdata%252F1%252F4%252F5%252F3%252F7%252F1%252F8%252Fwebimg%252F586940681_o.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fitm%252FHigh-Quality-Panel-VU-Meter-TR-35-0dB-1-288V-35x35mm-LED-New-%252F261356082043%3B600%3B601

the other one working  on another gssl is:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/wooster/3998274379/

the the last one ( working meter)  is dc 500ua , with a 4.7k is working at 20db compression scale.

The thing is the first one is not a dc meter ( I think ) , so next time will be sure i buy a dc meter .

just connected the working meter to this unit and meter moves  when I turn  on the unit.

  :

 

[Zander]

Zander,

One of your power regulators get hot and shuts down. Measure voltages in failure mode to find out which. Then give that regulator a bit of extra heatsink...

Jakob E.

Put new heat sinks on all regulator. Still the same problem. Maybe the diodes aren't rated high enough? Just learning trial and error style.

 

[tylergarcia]

Hi all - been working on my GSSL off and on for almost a year and finally have found the time to wrap it up. Got everything put in the case and wired up and switched it on last night - the meter lit right up and everything looked gravy. I measured the 15V shorts and got 10V. Checked my components and realized I'd switched the 7815 and 7915 regulators. Swapped them back in to their correct places and powered up - no meter light. A few seconds later, smoke rose from one the 22R just past the +15V marking on the board and it turned a little brown. I checked the 15V shorts again and now am getting 30V. measuring the AC inlet on the PCB gives me 18V if I measure the middle hole with one of the outer holes, and 36V if I measure both outer holes. Interestingly, I am still getting perfectly stable 12V at the meter, but the meter no longer illuminates.

I'm thinking I either messed up when desoldering the regulators, wired the transformer wrong, or that I have the wrong transformer. The transformer has blue/violet and grey/brown going to the Live/Neutral on the AC inlet, and black, red/orange, yellow to the AC in on the board.  Attached are some pictures of the board, xformer, and underside where the desoldering took place, so that hopefully someone can spot an easy mistake.

To be totally honest, something I don't fully understand is exactly how I am supposed to measure the different voltages at different points on the board. I've seen mention of a chart somewhere in this thread but cannot find it after searching. When it says "Measure X voltage at pin7", where do both probes go? Obviously one goes on pin 7 but what about the other?

Last dumb question, how do I shorten the rotary switch shafts?

Thanks in advance everyone.

TG

***EDIT*** thanks to Joël for his help on Facebook messenger, he informed me of the right way to measure from the hot point to ground, but now I'm getting a really odd reading of 50mV at the 15V jumpers. At his suggestion, I'm going to replace the burnt resistor and the regulators and try again.

http://postimg.org/image/i35d5yl1b/
http://postimg.org/image/9yx917ym7/
http://postimg.org/image/dl32dv4zj/
http://postimg.org/image/8l5m5wzcv/

 

[gyraf]

If you once have had parts in there with wrong orientation AND powered up, consider these parts dead and do not re-use (!!).

Jakob E.

 

[Gustav]

I am still getting perfectly stable 12V at the meter, but the meter no longer illuminates.

Does your meter need 12V?

Gustav

 

[rosestudios]

I have an awkward problem...my GSSL with turbo mod works perfectly and sounds amazing except when I install the top panel it shorts something and the compressor stops working.  With the top panel off it works amazingly.  I got the enclosure from frontpanels.de.  Solutions/think it's kosher to rack this baby up without a top on it?

Thanks.

 

[gyraf]

You'll definitely want to find out what shorts by the lid.....

Mounting screw for toroid power transformer?

Jakob E.

 

[rosestudios]

It's really tough to tell, by my mounting screw for the toroid is placed on the bottom, not the back.  When I have the top on squeezing the front and back faces closer together corrects the short.  It already begins to short when I screw in the first screw in the center back.

 

[deaftone]

Hello guys, this is my first post here and i have only one question:

How am I powering the Hairball meter's LED with PCB Grinder kit?

It requires  5.6-7.6 volt

http://www.hairballaudio.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=61

Thank you!

 

[JoelCoteBergevin]

See the additionnal ''Relay and Light Power'' pads on the main PCB ? That's where to take the current for your LEDs. I added a 330R (if I remember correctly ) to the positive lead of the meter's led leg and voilà. You can test from 280 to 350 to choose how bright/dim you want the leds to be. I also have the hairball meter.

Joel

 

[deaftone]

Thank you Joel!! I will check that

cheers

 

[Habster]

Hi everyone,
I just finished my first DIY project - the GSSL compressor - and I just wanted to thank Jakob, Gustav and all the people here in the group! I read a lot during the construction process, it was really helpful!

Basically the GSSL worked right from the beginning, only the first fuse burned after some hours of testing because I accidentally took a 125 mA instead of the correct 315 mA.   

I did two small (standard?) mods to the original design from Jakob and Gustav:

1. I added a switchable highpass, so just some different capacitors to choose the cut-off frequencies between 80 Hz and 1 kHz. I am not sure how useful this will be in the end, but its easy to do, and I like the rotary switch!

2. I replaced the bypass switch from Gustavs KIT by a illuminated push button from the original SSL design. It looks nice but it has only two switchable connectors at the back, so the makeup gain was not affected when I first installed it (because the LED also needs to be switched). To switch the makeup, the compressor and the LED at once I added a relay (OMRON G5V-2-H1) which is controlled via the push button.

Now it works perfectly as expected! And sounds great!!

Here are some pics of the build and the finished GSSL:

http://www.maunz-music.de/files/ssl_01.jpg
http://www.maunz-music.de/files/ssl_03.jpg
http://www.maunz-music.de/files/ssl_05.jpg
http://www.maunz-music.de/files/ssl_06.jpg
http://www.maunz-music.de/files/ssl_08.jpg
http://www.maunz-music.de/files/ssl_09.jpg
http://www.maunz-music.de/files/ssl_10.jpg
http://www.maunz-music.de/files/ssl_12.jpg
http://www.maunz-music.de/files/ssl_11.jpg

I totally love these projects and the GSSL will definitely not be the only project I will do! Parts for the G9 mic preamp are already accumulating  : )   

Habster

 

[Gustav]

...the original design from Jakob and Gustav:

Design is all Jakob's. My part was just making the PCB

What a great front panel design you did. The personal touch and text adds another dimension to these builds imo.

Gustav

 

[dustbro]

Hey Gustav,
Just a word of caution... I've built 2 of these from the latest revision in the past few months. Both of them exhibited erratic behavior that was tracked down to shorts on the PCB from manufacturing. In both instances it was on the control board. The most recent one I've built has a short on the control pcb between pins + and F.
It might be a good idea to anyone building these to throw the pcb over a lamp and inspect traces before you start. It was simple enough to use a tool to scrape away the short... but it's wasn't fun to find.

 

[Gustav]

It might be a good idea to anyone building these to throw the pcb over a lamp and inspect traces before you start.

Hi Dan.

I am so sorry to hear that.

Boards are tested in an electrical probe tester before going out, so I will have to check if this was skipped on the batch of boards yours came from, or if something else went wrong (I didn't send you one boards with black markings on them, did I?)

It has happened before, but shouldn't happen at all, of course.

Gustav

 

[dustbro]

Boards are tested in an electrical probe tester before going out, so I will have to check if this was skipped on the batch of boards yours came from, or if something else went wrong (I didn't send you one boards with black markings on them, did I?)

No prob! Just wanted to let you know.
No black markings on these here.

 

[dustbro]

Hey guys!
I've had so many issues with the 78xx regulators locking up. None of the remedies seem to help, so I found a quick solution to the issue.
You can replace the 78xx with an LM317 with some minor mods. Just bend a leg and add 2 resistors to achieve the desired voltage.

 

[kante1603]

It's really tough to tell, by my mounting screw for the toroid is placed on the bottom, not the back.  When I have the top on squeezing the front and back faces closer together corrects the short.  It already begins to short when I screw in the first screw in the center back.

Jakob asks for if the mounting screw from the transformer reaches both the bottom plus(!) the top.
In that case you will cause a "magnetic short" when the lid is on!


Best,


Udo.

 

[Voodoobeat]

Hi,

i have -16Volt and +6 Volt after the rectifier.
Already changed it and Transformer voltage seems also good.
Can anybody help me out?