GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[eyefll]

No problem reading your post at all, so grammar certainly wasn't a problem

Did you miss the comma on the values for the caps in the release circuit by any chance?

0,47uF and 6,8uF

Gustav

OMG you are my hero! Definitely missed a comma, blessings!  ;D

 

[EmptyMusicBox1]

hello guy i need your help for find the correct values of the  coposants for different dbx VCA !

i have dbx 202 black / 202c / 202XT & 2001  !

i want to test it on GSSL but i don't find the correct value of Rin / Rout  / Rsym for a GSSL mount for dbx 2001 & dbx 202XT !

when i read th DN127 of that i don't find the correct value of dbx 202c 202 xt to compare with the GSSl schematics ... it's normal ?

how i can calculate the correct value for each VCA please ?

thanks for your help

 

[innercityman]

Hi Gustav,
happy to see that you're back on the forum.  So I explain again the issue I experienced... My GSSL is behaving normally when passing a stereo signal on it, it is inserted on the main mix buss of my console, but when muting right side, left side is passing audio but no compression, when muting left side, I have a compressed signal on right side... Strange! I installed a turbo board and used a DPDT switch instead of the SPDT to be able to keep the HPF functionality, and it behaves the same with or without HPF in. I wired the DPDT following your instructions which was to copy the wiring coming from the GSSL HPF on the other side of the switch to the turbo board. Any idea???

Cheers!

 

[Gustav]

Hi Gustav,
happy to see that you're back on the forum.  So I explain again the issue I experienced... My GSSL is behaving normally when passing a stereo signal on it, it is inserted on the main mix buss of my console, but when muting right side, left side is passing audio but no compression, when muting left side, I have a compressed signal on right side... Strange! I installed a turbo board and used a DPDT switch instead of the SPDT to be able to keep the HPF functionality, and it behaves the same with or without HPF in. I wired the DPDT following your instructions which was to copy the wiring coming from the GSSL HPF on the other side of the switch to the turbo board. Any idea???

Cheers!

Hi - it sounds like one side is just not going to the sidechain - maybe an error in the turbo mod, maybe an error in the switch (crossing paths somehow).

Other than that, I can't really help.

GUstav

 

[eyefll]

Hello, I need a little help with my GSSL build.  Problem is when signal hits threshold it gets compressed, and release time is very very long, like minute or so on all settings.

I used THAT2181C chips, also tried Cool audio V2181. Still same problem.
I checked caps, diodes polarity, swapped all IC's nothing changed, tried pulling resistors and remeasuring - seems all good, checked wiring few times, searched for pcb bridges - haven't found anything suspicious.  Voltages are correct on all IC's .

While fooling around after not knowing what to do and shorting resistors and diodes with small value resistor I found out that when side chain diode, in schematics right before attack switch is shorted, compressor starts pumping - working. Calibrated 120k resistor to 108k, to get right compression rates.

Anybody has ideas what is wrong with my build, tried to replace the diode, but when it is in circuit again, problem persists. I am almost satisfied even with this build, one thing that still bothers me is when i switch to slower attack times, release times gets longer too, even if it is set to fastest and it seems like there is not much compression happening right there.

Sorry for my grammar, thanks in advance!

No problem reading your post at all, so grammar certainly wasn't a problem

Did you miss the comma on the values for the caps in the release circuit by any chance?

0,47uF and 6,8uF

Gustav

Okay, replaced incorrect 47u tantalums to 0.47u and put shorted diode back into circuit.  Everything works except release time is short  on all positions, no difference in sound and meter needle. Caps polarity looks right, resistor values next to them are correct. Hmm...  I did a test to see if there will be any difference by adding parallel capacitor to tantalum and there was increase in release time on modified setting . I'm not sure what I'm still missing in original circuit. 

 

[innercityman]

Hi - it sounds like one side is just not going to the sidechain - maybe an error in the turbo mod, maybe an error in the switch (crossing paths somehow).

You're right.  I just bypassed the turbo board to be sure that the problem was coming from it and went back to the original GSSL design, and both signals are compressed when panning the main buss where the GSSl is inserted from left to right or muting one side and another. So, what I did to wire the turbo board and retain the HPF switch function was to lift the + leg of the 22uf cap on turbo board and wire it to one side of the DPDT switch, so it is wired to one of the external pin of the switch with the 100nf cap to get my filtered or non filtered return from the turbo board, depending on the switch position. And I wired the pole (center pin) of the switch to the solder pad where was soldered the + leg of the 22uf cap before. So my question is... Is it the way is should be or does the lifted + leg of the 22 uf cap need to be soldered to the switch pole and the free solder pad of the turbo to the external pin of the switch with the 100nf cap ?

 

[offthewallstudio]

Hi - it sounds like one side is just not going to the sidechain - maybe an error in the turbo mod, maybe an error in the switch (crossing paths somehow).

Other than that, I can't really help.

GUstav

hello all. i am almost done with the gssl buss. i have just a few more steps that i need help with.

mainly the power supply to the pcb and to the iec.

[list type=decimal]
[*]
[*]
[/list] i have the 2 square push buttons. one for power and one for compressor

i do have the super side chain. i need help with the led and meter led connection

i think thats all i need. please help! i will post pictures and a link to the dropbox i am using with all the info i have gathered from this build.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/i9n9uqdw6lb8uux/AAAt-k4YIbWp7dA1tuHBSj6ra?dl=0

i am not a professional i have build others things but with full instructions. so please use lingo i can understand lol

 

[Gustav]

Okay, replaced incorrect 47u tantalums to 0.47u and put shorted diode back into circuit.  Everything works except release time is short  on all positions, no difference in sound and meter needle. Caps polarity looks right, resistor values next to them are correct. Hmm...  I did a test to see if there will be any difference by adding parallel capacitor to tantalum and there was increase in release time on modified setting . I'm not sure what I'm still missing in original circuit. 

Could be a short somewhere.

Gustav

 

[Gustav]

You're right.  I just bypassed the turbo board to be sure that the problem was coming from it and went back to the original GSSL design, and both signals are compressed when panning the main buss where the GSSl is inserted from left to right or muting one side and another. So, what I did to wire the turbo board and retain the HPF switch function was to lift the + leg of the 22uf cap on turbo board and wire it to one side of the DPDT switch, so it is wired to one of the external pin of the switch with the 100nf cap to get my filtered or non filtered return from the turbo board, depending on the switch position. And I wired the pole (center pin) of the switch to the solder pad where was soldered the + leg of the 22uf cap before. So my question is... Is it the way is should be or does the lifted + leg of the 22 uf cap need to be soldered to the switch pole and the free solder pad of the turbo to the external pin of the switch with the 100nf cap ?

Sorry, not trying to be a smart-ass, but I really can't decipher that description.

In essense, i sounds like the turbo board just isnt in the mix. Try wiring the turbo board in without a switch, so its always in turbo mode, just to eliminate the switch set-up as a variable.

If you still have the same behaviour, Id bet its the turbo board not working (would make sense with the panning behaviour you described) .

Gustav

 

[innercityman]

Try wiring the turbo board in without a switch, so its always in turbo mode, just to eliminate the switch set-up as a variable.

That's what I did of course, restoring the connection between the turbo board and the 22uf cap without going through the switch, and the problem remains the same. So yes, probably the turbo board itself has a problem. I'll try to change the VCA and TL074 of the turbo and see what happens.

Thanks Gustav

 

[Gustav]

That's what I did of course, restoring the connection between the turbo board and the 22uf cap without going through the switch, and the problem remains the same. So yes, probably the turbo board itself has a problem. I'll try to change the VCA and TL074 of the turbo and see what happens.

Thanks Gustav

Changing the VCA and the TL074 is blind troubleshooting.

Start by checking voltages, then see if you can trace the signal.

Voltages on the chips should be easy, even if you are unsure (dont know if you are, just saying).

Check if they are identical to the ones in the standard circuit on the supply pins - you can use google image search to get the pinout for them.

Gustav

 

[offthewallstudio]

i hooked up my dla2a for a mastering 2 buss session....all the ins and outs were assigned properly. i then unplugged the xlrs from it and plugged into the gssl. no signal is even coming or going from it... i would thing i would at least get a reading of some sort. the push buttons on the front for power and compressor are not hooked up yet. could this be the issue? the IEC on the back has power on and is glowing. pls help thanks! lol

 

[Gustav]

the push buttons on the front for power and compressor are not hooked up yet. could this be the issue?

Yep, finish the unit, then try again

Gustav

 

[innercityman]

Start by checking voltages, then see if you can trace the signal.

Voltages on the chips should be easy, even if you are unsure (dont know if you are, just saying).

Check if they are identical to the ones in the standard circuit on the supply pins - you can use google image search to get the pinout for them.

Sorry Gustav, I should have told you that I did it already as mentioned on the turbo build guide... I get the good voltages on pin 1 and 14of the TL074... +12v and -12v. I also checked continuity between the two opamps (the one on turbo board and the one on GSSL) and it's ok.

 

[Gustav]

Sorry Gustav, I should have told you that I did it already as mentioned on the turbo build guide... I get the good voltages on pin 1 and 14of the TL074... +12v and -12v. I also checked continuity between the two opamps (the one on turbo board and the one on GSSL) and it's ok.

Sounds like they are doing good then, problem is probably elsewhere.

Try swapping them with the chips in the unmodded path, see if it makes a difference.

Gustav

 

[offthewallstudio]

Yep, finish the unit, then try again

Gustav

I have two square push buttons 1 compressor and 1 power I am not sure exactly how to hook those up. All other controls including the superside chain with the 8 positions are all fully hooked up. However on the super sidechain PCB I did not hook up the meter LED.. SW ...and the LED plus minus controls. The LED meter light is glowing because from the original build on the control front panel PCB is hooked up that way. Any help with these two square push buttons would be much much appreciated thank you! I have pictures but cannot post :/

 

[hugo]

I have two square push buttons 1 compressor and 1 power I am not sure exactly how to hook those up. All other controls including the superside chain with the 8 positions are all fully hooked up. However on the super sidechain PCB I did not hook up the meter LED.. SW ...and the LED plus minus controls. The LED meter light is glowing because from the original build on the control front panel PCB is hooked up that way. Any help with these two square push buttons would be much much appreciated thank you! I have pictures but cannot post :/

Use MS paint to reduce your pictures. For your switch, just use your mm to know which pin are connected when you push them..you will find the way you have to use. If they have a led inside, there are + and - signs on the back.  For the led, it does not matter if you do not need it.

 

[offthewallstudio]

Use MS paint to reduce your pictures. For your switch, just use your mm to know which pin are connected when you push them..you will find the way you have to use. If they have a led inside, there are + and - signs on the back.  For the led, it does not matter if you do not need it.

Yes thank you but as far as the push buttons.  I have no clue where the connect to or how to connect them
Thanks

 

[hugo]

On the back of the push button, the 2 pins at the center are marked + and - for the internal led. on the sides you have two classic switchs (Common marked as C, NC you will not use, and ON when the button is pushed.

first goal : you have to feed the 2 leds with the same power source..you will find it marked as "led" on your sc board..it is time to use it.

- There is a pin marked + on your push buttons.. Connect a 1.5k here for both.
- connect the "-" together (pin - of the power button, pin - of the comp button, and the - of the sc led.
- connect the top left pin to the
Power button : connect  the top left pin with the + of the led.
- connect the + of the "led" from your sc board to the pin bottom left.
The goal here is to have the led illuminated only when the button is pushed.

- Connect the top right pin to the Neutral of IEC inlet
- Connect  the bottom right pin to the primary of your toroidal
- Your other primary  wires should be connected to the IEC inlet already

TAKE THE BYPASS SWITCH :

- Wire the same for the led ( you will need to cut the wire between the "+"  you already soldered, to split it and feed the two buttons).
On your sc board, there is a bypass marked. Connect one hole to the top right, and the other hole to the bottom right pin.

 

[offthewallstudio]

On the back of the push button, the 2 pins at the center are marked + and - for the internal led. on the sides you have two classic switchs (Common marked as C, NC you will not use, and ON when the button is pushed.

first goal : you have to feed the 2 leds with the same power source..you will find it marked as "led" on your sc board..it is time to use it.

- There is a pin marked + on your push buttons.. Connect a 1.5k here for both.
- connect the "-" together (pin - of the power button, pin - of the comp button, and the - of the sc led.
- connect the top left pin to the
Power button : connect  the top left pin with the + of the led.
- connect the + of the "led" from your sc board to the pin bottom left.
The goal here is to have the led illuminated only when the button is pushed.

- Connect the top right pin to the Neutral of IEC inlet
- Connect  the bottom right pin to the primary of your toroidal
- Your other primary  wires should be connected to the IEC inlet already

TAKE THE BYPASS SWITCH :

- Wire the same for the led ( you will need to cut the wire between the "+"  you already soldered, to split it and feed the two buttons).
On your sc board, there is a bypass marked. Connect one hole to the top right, and the other hole to the bottom right pin.

awsome man great stuff! You have a diagram possibly?  Thank you so much for a quick reply!