GSSL HELP THREAD!!!
- Thread starter hairyandy
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Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
ability
Member
Any one ever used a that 9180lc in the design?? i have four of them and three 2150a, but i cant find any specs on the 9180lc. They were shipped to me as a replacement of the 2150a, atleast thats what i remember since it was 2 years ago.
got more time now so i am really going to build it, alreay ordered the pcb's!!
Thanks
:?:
got more time now so i am really going to build it, alreay ordered the pcb's!!
Thanks
:?:
panda
Member
hi! i just started building my Gssl. this is my first! DIY project.
http://www.pliink.com/mt/diy/
anyways. i got some THAT 2180LB VCAs. but i appear to not have any IC sockets for them. i would like to put in some sockets for the THATs. but i can't figure out what i need well looking through the digi-key catalog.
does anyone know what IC sockets i need?
also, if i understand correctly. since the 2180LBs are "pre-trimmed" i don't need to bend the last connector out of the way? am i right on that? i can just stick them in the IC socket?
thanks!
panda
http://www.pliink.com/mt/diy/
anyways. i got some THAT 2180LB VCAs. but i appear to not have any IC sockets for them. i would like to put in some sockets for the THATs. but i can't figure out what i need well looking through the digi-key catalog.
does anyone know what IC sockets i need?
also, if i understand correctly. since the 2180LBs are "pre-trimmed" i don't need to bend the last connector out of the way? am i right on that? i can just stick them in the IC socket?
thanks!
panda
panda
Member
wait! i got that.. some 16DIP sockets.. i can just cut then in half? down the center? no problem?
craziness.
thanks..
[quote author="Soeren_DK"]
Welcome to the DIY world.. great site you have made...
You need a 16 pins socket and then cut it on the middel. Then you got two 8 pins...:wink:
Great luck with the project[/quote]
oh, also can't sleep, thinking about it. i put more pictures up on my site. of my PCBs pretty much fully populated..
http://www.pliink.com/mt/diy/
oh! what kind of wite should i use to wire everything up?
i honestly don't know anything. just jumping in head first here..
thanks!
panda
craziness.
thanks..
[quote author="Soeren_DK"]
Welcome to the DIY world.. great site you have made...
You need a 16 pins socket and then cut it on the middel. Then you got two 8 pins...:wink:
Great luck with the project[/quote]
oh, also can't sleep, thinking about it. i put more pictures up on my site. of my PCBs pretty much fully populated..
http://www.pliink.com/mt/diy/
oh! what kind of wite should i use to wire everything up?
i honestly don't know anything. just jumping in head first here..
thanks!
panda
Any wire - though keep away from the heavy ones, as they can be a pita to work with. A split Kat5 network cable works fine..
Greg
Well-known member
hi panda:
Nice site, and I'm glad my parts list was able to assist you. As Soeren_DK stated, the 16 pin DIP sockets are to be cut in half and used for VCA mounting !
Regarding wire, I like to use Teflon insulated wire made by Alpha. I buy from Mouser 22 guage.
Keep us updated on the build :thumb: .
Nice site, and I'm glad my parts list was able to assist you. As Soeren_DK stated, the 16 pin DIP sockets are to be cut in half and used for VCA mounting !
Regarding wire, I like to use Teflon insulated wire made by Alpha. I buy from Mouser 22 guage.
Keep us updated on the build :thumb: .
panda
Member
your part list is/was indispensable! hell, its in front me me right now.
ok, so i was going to spring to for some of this wire. and guess what?
as i was getting parts ready for the pots. i found i never ordered any
50k trim 5x10mm pots! yeah me. anyways. now digi-key doesn't have them in stock, and i can't find them at mouser. can anyone help me out?
i mean im stuck waiting on wire anyways. but digi-keys back order says "1/06" what!?
also, don't i need to some how change some of the switches off your list?
like the 2 x 6 switch? how do i do that?
ps. i cut my sockets, had to file some to get them to fit into place.
but they are in. yeah! i assume i should bother snapping in the ICs and VCAs until everything is together?
thanks again. you guys rock.
panda
[quote author="Greg"]hi panda:
Nice site, and I'm glad my parts list was able to assist you. As Soeren_DK stated, the 16 pin DIP sockets are to be cut in half and used for VCA mounting !
Regarding wire, I like to use Teflon insulated wire made by Alpha. I buy from Mouser 22 guage.
Keep us updated on the build :thumb: .[/quote]
ok, so i was going to spring to for some of this wire. and guess what?
as i was getting parts ready for the pots. i found i never ordered any
50k trim 5x10mm pots! yeah me. anyways. now digi-key doesn't have them in stock, and i can't find them at mouser. can anyone help me out?
i mean im stuck waiting on wire anyways. but digi-keys back order says "1/06" what!?
also, don't i need to some how change some of the switches off your list?
like the 2 x 6 switch? how do i do that?
ps. i cut my sockets, had to file some to get them to fit into place.
but they are in. yeah! i assume i should bother snapping in the ICs and VCAs until everything is together?
thanks again. you guys rock.
panda
[quote author="Greg"]hi panda:
Nice site, and I'm glad my parts list was able to assist you. As Soeren_DK stated, the 16 pin DIP sockets are to be cut in half and used for VCA mounting !
Regarding wire, I like to use Teflon insulated wire made by Alpha. I buy from Mouser 22 guage.
Keep us updated on the build :thumb: .[/quote]
matta
Well-known member
Hi Panda,
Well done on your progress so far. We met over in the Tape Op Forum, and I'm glad to seeing you following through. Great little Blog as well!
Yes, don't bother snapping in the IC's and VCA's till you are done. Actually when you are done you might want to fire up without them socketed just to check all is well. Things happen and if you wires something wrong between to loose a caps or resistor than your VCA's or opamps.
Keep us up to date on your progress.
Cheers
Matt
Well done on your progress so far. We met over in the Tape Op Forum, and I'm glad to seeing you following through. Great little Blog as well!
Yes, don't bother snapping in the IC's and VCA's till you are done. Actually when you are done you might want to fire up without them socketed just to check all is well. Things happen and if you wires something wrong between to loose a caps or resistor than your VCA's or opamps.
Keep us up to date on your progress.
Cheers
Matt
Greg
Well-known member
Panda:
I read on your blog that you're using the THAT 2180LB VCAs. This means that you don't need the 50K trim pots, as well as some other resistors. There's a thread about it somewhere I think with a diagram of what to remove, but I can describe it to you quickly.
Basically, you want to remove everything connected to pin 4 of VCAs. For the channel VCAs, that's the 68R, the 10K, and the trim pot. For the sidechain VCA, you'll need to remove the 47R.
That should do it !!! :thumb:
I read on your blog that you're using the THAT 2180LB VCAs. This means that you don't need the 50K trim pots, as well as some other resistors. There's a thread about it somewhere I think with a diagram of what to remove, but I can describe it to you quickly.
Basically, you want to remove everything connected to pin 4 of VCAs. For the channel VCAs, that's the 68R, the 10K, and the trim pot. For the sidechain VCA, you'll need to remove the 47R.
That should do it !!! :thumb:
panda
Member
great! so im here looking at my board.. and the gyraf layout file.
witch 10k on the VCA? the one next to the 3k9?
and both 47Rs from the side chain? or just one? if just one. witch one? the one in the next to the 10k? or the other one?
hmm. maybe its the "other one" as its next to the 4th pin.
slowly, i will learn.
pre-emptive thanks!
trevor.
[quote author="Greg"]Panda:
I read on your blog that you're using the THAT 2180LB VCAs. This means that you don't need the 50K trim pots, as well as some other resistors. There's a thread about it somewhere I think with a diagram of what to remove, but I can describe it to you quickly.
Basically, you want to remove everything connected to pin 4 of VCAs. For the channel VCAs, that's the 68R, the 10K, and the trim pot. For the sidechain VCA, you'll need to remove the 47R.
That should do it !!! :thumb:[/quote]
witch 10k on the VCA? the one next to the 3k9?
and both 47Rs from the side chain? or just one? if just one. witch one? the one in the next to the 10k? or the other one?
hmm. maybe its the "other one" as its next to the 4th pin.
slowly, i will learn.
pre-emptive thanks!
trevor.
[quote author="Greg"]Panda:
I read on your blog that you're using the THAT 2180LB VCAs. This means that you don't need the 50K trim pots, as well as some other resistors. There's a thread about it somewhere I think with a diagram of what to remove, but I can describe it to you quickly.
Basically, you want to remove everything connected to pin 4 of VCAs. For the channel VCAs, that's the 68R, the 10K, and the trim pot. For the sidechain VCA, you'll need to remove the 47R.
That should do it !!! :thumb:[/quote]
Greg
Well-known member
This should clear things up. Remove the circled components.
THAT 2180 Modifications
But try to do some circuit tracing on the boards and understand that everything connected to pin 4 is being removed. Also, note the orientation of the channel and sidechain VCAs. The channel VCAs have pin 1 at the top and the sidechain VCA has pin 1 at the bottom.
:thumb:
THAT 2180 Modifications
But try to do some circuit tracing on the boards and understand that everything connected to pin 4 is being removed. Also, note the orientation of the channel and sidechain VCAs. The channel VCAs have pin 1 at the top and the sidechain VCA has pin 1 at the bottom.
:thumb:
panda
Member
thanks for that link to those mods.. i'll do that next.
i have another question. i have 2 2x6 "Rotary Switches"
[mouser: 10wa135]
but the release is suppost to be 2x5. how do i convert one of the 2x6's to a 2x5. i don't get it. remember. i don't know anything.
thanks!
panda
i have another question. i have 2 2x6 "Rotary Switches"
[mouser: 10wa135]
but the release is suppost to be 2x5. how do i convert one of the 2x6's to a 2x5. i don't get it. remember. i don't know anything.
thanks!
panda
panda
Member
wait. i think i got it.
if i take it appart.. there is like an indented ring inside. that it looks like i could just move to the "5".. its on the "6" right now. so thats probably what it is.. i would wadger!
panda
[quote author="panda"]thanks for that link to those mods.. i'll do that next.
i have another question. i have 2 2x6 "Rotary Switches"
[mouser: 10wa135]
but the release is suppost to be 2x5. how do i convert one of the 2x6's to a 2x5. i don't get it. remember. i don't know anything.
thanks!
panda[/quote]
if i take it appart.. there is like an indented ring inside. that it looks like i could just move to the "5".. its on the "6" right now. so thats probably what it is.. i would wadger!
panda
[quote author="panda"]thanks for that link to those mods.. i'll do that next.
i have another question. i have 2 2x6 "Rotary Switches"
[mouser: 10wa135]
but the release is suppost to be 2x5. how do i convert one of the 2x6's to a 2x5. i don't get it. remember. i don't know anything.
thanks!
panda[/quote]
matta
Well-known member
Panda,
Just remove the nut and washer from the 6x2 way switch, Underneat it you will find a stopper, just remove the stop and place it back on the number of stops you want. You can make it a 1 x2 if you want, just find the correct stop (normally numbered).
(After posting this I see you already got it!)
Cheers
Matt
Just remove the nut and washer from the 6x2 way switch, Underneat it you will find a stopper, just remove the stop and place it back on the number of stops you want. You can make it a 1 x2 if you want, just find the correct stop (normally numbered).
(After posting this I see you already got it!)
Cheers
Matt
panda
Member
yeah, but wait! more questions. i can't find anything on them.
on the switches.. for the attack and release. how do i know, how to connect the to the PCB? are pins 1/12 let's say.. the "top" ?
then also, on the power supply. i've noticed there are 2 ways of hooking it up. one in the big empty part of the PCB, and other other from the corner connection.. whats the difference?
thanks. if these, or questions like these have been asked and answered. sorry.. i can't find them. this thread is hugh! and the search doesn't seem to work for me.
panda
[quote author="matta"]Panda,
Just remove the nut and washer from the 6x2 way switch, Underneat it you will find a stopper, just remove the stop and place it back on the number of stops you want. You can make it a 1 x2 if you want, just find the correct stop (normally numbered).
(After posting this I see you already got it!)
Cheers
Matt[/quote]
on the switches.. for the attack and release. how do i know, how to connect the to the PCB? are pins 1/12 let's say.. the "top" ?
then also, on the power supply. i've noticed there are 2 ways of hooking it up. one in the big empty part of the PCB, and other other from the corner connection.. whats the difference?
thanks. if these, or questions like these have been asked and answered. sorry.. i can't find them. this thread is hugh! and the search doesn't seem to work for me.
panda
[quote author="matta"]Panda,
Just remove the nut and washer from the 6x2 way switch, Underneat it you will find a stopper, just remove the stop and place it back on the number of stops you want. You can make it a 1 x2 if you want, just find the correct stop (normally numbered).
(After posting this I see you already got it!)
Cheers
Matt[/quote]
panda
Member
so i'm working on this switch placement/connection thing. so i made this niffty image. IT COULD BE TOTALLY WRONG!
so the question is.. is it right?
http://pliink.com/gssl/gssl_switches_how.jpg
anyone? i don't wanna solder them down till i know they are in the right place if possible. or if it makes any difference! [witch it seems like it would]
thanks!
panda
so the question is.. is it right?
http://pliink.com/gssl/gssl_switches_how.jpg
anyone? i don't wanna solder them down till i know they are in the right place if possible. or if it makes any difference! [witch it seems like it would]
thanks!
panda
Greg
Well-known member
It doesn't matter how the switches solder in the boards. The switches are symmetric. Just put them in there so the set screw doesn't hit the "D" part of the shaft.
I know this thread is huge, but if you read it you will learn ALOT !!!
I know this thread is huge, but if you read it you will learn ALOT !!!
panda
Member
ok, so what i go there would work?
don't even know what the "d" part of the shaft is.. haha at me.
thanks
panda
don't even know what the "d" part of the shaft is.. haha at me.
thanks
panda
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