GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[caps]

Yeah, going by my soundcards meters , its going out correct levels on left and right, but a difference coming back in!!

Shameful thing is I have had it for ages, though not used alot, and I have only just discovered it. hmmmm.

 

[csonics]

Figured it out! Thanks Gyraf and RogerFoote! It ended up being a bad connection on the left channel vca. Both channels seem to work fine now.

Sweet. On to making the frontpanel.

thanks again!

 

[gyraf]

:thumb:

 

[Sender]

Quick question. I've noticed my rotary switches fit in two ways. Which way is the proper way.

Thank you.

 

[caps]

any reason why gan reduction at a given threshold would be affected by attack times. I.E longer attack results in less GR, is this normal ?

 

[gyraf]

Longer attacks results in less coming through to the release circuit, so yes..

 

[Greg]

Sender: Either way is fine. The rotaries are symmetric.

 

[Sender]

One more quick question....

On the control board there are some things im confused about. On the bottom right corner, there is something silk screened that kinda makes a triangle, what is that and where does it go? Right by that there is somehing else silk screened "ON" "OFF" and "COM" (right below the make up gain pot). What are those three holes for (the holes make a triangle shape, not the silk screened lines).

Thank you.

 

[Luny Tune]

I know how you can get confused about the funny lines there. I was too. But have a look at the schematic and PCB layout you can find at gyraf.dk.

There you'll discover that the lines are actually "intentional leftovers" from the description and drawing about how you can either solder in a short right there or leave it open when you connect the bypass switch. (See the mentioned documents for explanation!:wink

The On, Off, and Com holes are for the bypass switch to be wired to. And since you got confused over the same thing I did, I might as well tell you the answer to the next thing that confused me a bit.
Remember that "On" means no compression, and "Off" means compression since we're talking about the Bypass switch being on or off.
You probably got that already, but just in case...:wink:

To give you an idea about exactly HOW those switches work symmetrical, take a good look at the way the bypass switch is wired in the PCB layout .pdf file. Note how the 4x3 switch is described as having A1, A2, A3, B1, B2, B3, C1... pins but on your actual switch the pins are labelled 1-12. The 1-12 is what throws one off as the other way gives you a much better idea about how they're constructed. When in position "1" the middle pins A, B, C, D are connected to A1, B1, C1, D1 respectively (which will on your actual switch be pins 1, 4, 7, 10)... Get the picture?

Understanding these things to some degree gives you power to alter the DIY projects to your likings. You'll find that when you get a good grasp on it, it will also be easier for you to find replacement parts for one project or another, as you will know what functionality to look for.

 

[caps]

[quote author="caps"]any reason why gan reduction at a given threshold would be affected by attack times. I.E longer attack results in less GR, is this normal ?[/quote]

Intersting! I have only noticed this since taming the threshold in my unit. Id rather it have the full range available at all attack settings, but hey, cant complain. :grin:

 

[caps]

SORRY to ask again, and if Jakob says its normal, that should be enough !! :grin:


But it just dosent seem right that for a given threshold, the attack AND release times when adjusted in any combination will effect the amount of GR showing on the meter.

Like I said, Im asking once more to see if everyone elses unit does this. Then Ill shut the hell up and accept it ! :grin: :grin: :grin:

 

[gyraf]

If you take a closer look at the schematic, you will find that the attack/release resistors - other than effecting the timing in cooperation with the tantalum caps - will also form a potential divider that will affect the absolute level of the signal that passes through. And this in turn affects absolute ampunt of gain-reduction.

This will happen on ANY A/R circuit with passive timing..

Jakob E.

 

[caps]

[quote author="gyraf"]If you take a closer look at the schematic, you will find that the attack/release resistors - other than effecting the timing in cooperation with the tantalum caps - will also form a potential divider that will affect the absolute level of the signal that passes through. And this in turn affects absolute ampunt of gain-reduction.

This will happen on ANY A/R circuit with passive timing..

Jakob E.[/quote]

great thank you Jackob. And I learnt something to boot . :grin:

 

[Soeren_DK]

:?:

I discourvered some weird with my clone today. I have allway used it in a unbalaneded system but today I will try to but it in with some balanced cabels...

After that I powered it up and a lot of noise and hum was running in the system.. Hmmm...

Someone had that experience?????

 

[Sender]

[quote author="Soeren_DK"]:?:

I discourvered some weird with my clone today. I have allway used it in a unbalaneded system but today I will try to but it in with some balanced cabels...

After that I powered it up and a lot of noise and hum was running in the system.. Hmmm...

Someone had that experience?????[/quote]

Where is Pin 1 (XLR I presume) going. I've heard of people completely lifting the ground or running the ground to earth instead of to PC Board.

 

[Sender]

[quote author="Luny Tune"]I know how you can get confused about the funny lines there. I was too. But have a look at the schematic and PCB layout you can find at gyraf.dk.

There you'll discover that the lines are actually "intentional leftovers" from the description and drawing about how you can either solder in a short right there or leave it open when you connect the bypass switch. (See the mentioned documents for explanation!:wink

The On, Off, and Com holes are for the bypass switch to be wired to. And since you got confused over the same thing I did, I might as well tell you the answer to the next thing that confused me a bit.
Remember that "On" means no compression, and "Off" means compression since we're talking about the Bypass switch being on or off.
You probably got that already, but just in case...:wink:

To give you an idea about exactly HOW those switches work symmetrical, take a good look at the way the bypass switch is wired in the PCB layout .pdf file. Note how the 4x3 switch is described as having A1, A2, A3, B1, B2, B3, C1... pins but on your actual switch the pins are labelled 1-12. The 1-12 is what throws one off as the other way gives you a much better idea about how they're constructed. When in position "1" the middle pins A, B, C, D are connected to A1, B1, C1, D1 respectively (which will on your actual switch be pins 1, 4, 7, 10)... Get the picture?

Understanding these things to some degree gives you power to alter the DIY projects to your likings. You'll find that when you get a good grasp on it, it will also be easier for you to find replacement parts for one project or another, as you will know what functionality to look for.[/quote]

Excellent response, thank you very much. I love when people give me a response that I learn theory from instead of just 'how to do it'! Thank you very much.

So to further elaborate, can I use a DPDT switch in the situation? In the bypass state I should have "ON" and "COM" shorting and in the compressing state I should have "OFF" and "COM" shorting? Is this correct?

One more question about switches, this time the powerswitch. Do I just put a SPST switch in series between the transformer and PCB (on POS volt?) or do I need a DPDT (both POS and NEG)? Or does the switch go between the IEC and transformer in one of the previous fashions? And what size fuse should I be using?

 

[Luny Tune]

[quote author="Sender"]can I use a DPDT switch in the situation?[/quote]
I don't know what DPDT stands for. However, it's just a switch. If you'd like the bypass switch to bypass the gain makeup pot too then you need a switch with double action though. That's why the design suggests a 4x3 switch. I'll suggest wiring the suggested switch and then experimenting with the gain makup pot in and out in bypass mode to see what best suits you.

[quote author="Sender"]In the bypass state I should have "ON" and "COM" shorting and in the compressing state I should have "OFF" and "COM" shorting? Is this correct?[/quote]
[quote author="Sender"]Do I just put a SPST switch in series between the transformer and PCB (on POS volt?) or do I need a DPDT (both POS and NEG)? Or does the switch go between the IEC and transformer in one of the previous fashions?[/quote]
[quote author="Sender"]And what size fuse should I be using?[/quote]
These questions all have very clear answers in the schematics, and you can find info here by searching the topics. You'll find this forum an absolute treasure of information just waiting to be absorbed. Just search for the info you need. This is meant in the same sense as what you referred to when you said:
[quote author="Sender"]I love when people give me a response that I learn theory from instead of just 'how to do it'![/quote]
But I'm not sending you away empty handed though so the answers are:
1. Correct
2. NEVER put any components before the power switch. Not even the fuse.
3. I'm using the 315mAT fuse suggested in the schematics. I'm also using the suggested transformer so that's should be fine. When I raised the same question not too long ago (because I didn't check the schematics properly either!) Jakob informed me that it depends mainly on the transformer, and so I gather that in example if you can draw 250mA from the secondary windings on a suggested transformer in a design, then 250mA should be sufficient even if a different transformer is used for the same design. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.:wink:

 

[Soeren_DK]

[quote author="Sender"][quote author="Soeren_DK"]:?:

I discourvered some weird with my clone today. I have allway used it in a unbalaneded system but today I will try to but it in with some balanced cabels...

After that I powered it up and a lot of noise and hum was running in the system.. Hmmm...

Someone had that experience?????[/quote]

Where is Pin 1 (XLR I presume) going. I've heard of people completely lifting the ground or running the ground to earth instead of to PC Board.[/quote]

XLR 1 is going to the board and are also connected to a starpoint where the earth from the IEC also is.

 

[csonics]

Hey guys,

I'm just finishing up my clone and I wanted to run a few things by you guys.

1. Can someone verify that this wiring is correct for the in's and out's (balanced): 0 -> pin 1, + -> pin 2, - -> pin 3.

2. I notice that when I switch ratios my behringer meter doesn't quite show the compression taking place accuratly. I think... Well maybe this is normal: On 1st position (lowest ratio), the meter shows reduction taking place is a bit higher than 2nd position. 3rd position seems right where its supposed to be.
When I listen to the gain reduction everything seems fine. It just doesn't seem to be reflected as accuratly in the meter. I checked and double checked all the resistors in the ratio circuit. They all checkout fine and that is reflected in what I hear.

Is this normal?

 

[Greg]

csonics:

Your arrows confused me a bit, but hook up the I/O as follows:
GND: Pin 1
Hot (+): Pin 2
Cols (-): Pin 3

Regarding the ratio compression... The operation you describe is normal. Jakob has described how the ratio works in the SSL. I'm sure it's in this thread somewhere. I don't remember, and I don't have a schematic handy.