Hammond Box measurement

[Cqwet Dbdfte]

Hammond ships these extrusion boxes with small selftapping screws, which are not that strong, ok for stationary use, and they will leave some metal fragments behind. The paint on those boxes also make threading a chore.
Better to use a #6 spiral flute tap, and then use longer SS screws.
Front and rear panels can be ~1.5 mm aluminum PCB, Use any standard solder mask color, even black, and leave text and symbols unmasked, and/or silk screened.
Alternatively use aluminum side out, and put SMT circuits on the inside of the front/back panel. Or even sandwich two together, precision is tops, and it looks great.
Takachi makes better extruded boxes, a little bigger,, with better end panels.

 

[pvision]

The joggle in the original panel helps to stiffen it. A flat sheet will tend to flex - you'll have to suck it & see

 

[ruffrecords]

>> Here is a close-up view of the HAMMOND 1455 extrusion enclosure in, from what I understand that you are going to be doing, an -- INVERTED -- manner (or, "upside-down"), where the "BOTTOM" becomes the "TOP", so you can create hole-cutouts for your connectors, pots, LEDs and such. This view is also including a newly-created 152.40mm X 120.00mm X 1.50mm panel so you can see exactly how these two items are going to fit together. In addition, this view is also showing the enclosure and the panel as being "coincident" with one another, because again.....the enclosure is now being used "upside-down" and the panel will be resting upon the enclosure due to gravity. NOTE: The "Time & Space Continuum" has not been factored into these CAD-images:

Many thanks Midnight. You are correct, I do plan to use the enclosure upside down. As you know, I am really looking for an enclosure that has removable flat top and rear panels (see this thread: https://groupdiy.com/threads/the-perennial-project-enclosure-problem.88429/ ) and this is the nearest I have found but I am forced to use its bottom panel for the top.

Cheers

Ian