He-69 build/support thread. PCB's/kits-available!

[Bobby Baird]

Finished tonight!

 

[Whoops]

Finished tonight!

Looks awesome,
congrats. I would love to have done those units.

The front panels design are also very nice, where did you buy those from?

 

[Bobby Baird]

Looks awesome,
congrats. I would love to have done those units.

The front panels design are also very nice, where did you buy those from?

Front panels provided by Frank Helios EQ Frontpanel, 49,04 €
There's a little mistake on the panel on mid band. The 10k is slighty off axis of the switch throw, and there was a "1" miss printed right above the 10 on the mid band. I blacked it out with a marker. Frank was nice enough to give me a discount on my next order, although he still has the misprint on his website. I informed him of the error. He said those where the files Igor had supplied him for fabrication. I didn't catch the error before I order the panels. Other than that high quality panel.

 

[Whoops]

sorry for the small mistakes, but really nice design nonetheless.

I miss Igor

Best regards

 

[AllMixedUp]

I just found out that I can still get these PCBs. Besides the inductors, panel, pcb, and bracket; what are these Builds costing you guys?

 

[TimG]

Choice of Lundahl etc. transformers or alternatives will make an appreciable difference in cost.

i have all the pieces and have deliberately not totaled it up.

 

[HerbertR]

Hi, Frank from frontpanels.de has the PCBs and you can also buy two fitting inductors from him. Carnhill inductors are also available directly from AML in UK.

Hard to come by are the expensive Grayhill Rotaryswitches. These ones are sometimes available also from AML, Mouser or Digikey. I would recommend check the 71ADF30... and also !! 71BDF30... Series. ADF is 1/8 inch Shaft, BDF is with thicker 1/4 inch shaft. Frank has shaft adapters for 1/8inch to 4mm, 6mm.....

If you calculate all expensive parts and options (I would do that!), Lundahl 1524 (or 1517 reversed) Output TX, the Lundahl 7101 for Input TX, two 2520 or 1731.. discrete Opamps, the Grayhill Switches.... you can calculate about 500 Euros per build.
It is one of the "more" expensive 500' EQ pieces out there to build. But also the nicest sounding EQ imho you can do - audioporn "par excellence" - and worth every penny .... A fantastic "pushing" piece, super musically, "pushing" Lowband", a amazing Highband and Midband.... Its made for gods....
I built two of them....

 

[HerbertR]

Today I built a second pair HE69. Hell, what awesome good EQs... Not as sweet like a Neve EQs or Clones, like compared to AML 1084's. They are different. They do much more a rock thing, on the point, never to much, grip, open, ultra musically..... Yeah.... The Lowband is IMHO the coolest sounding thing ever designed. And the Highband, yeah......
I really recommend to do this build.....

 

[HerbertR]

And by the way - as Bobby Baird said -> Using the Carnhill VTB 9043 as Bass Inductor needs to get modified. You will grip wrongly 7 Henry from thr Inductor instead of the 10 Henry needed for correct frequencies in the Bassband. Or all frequencies are about 20 Hz higher in the Bass range.

 

[Bobby Baird]

I suggest checking a LC Resonant Frequency Calculator to double check the capacitor values Igor has on his schematic. Some of the values can be swapped to match bands more correctly to the bands on schematic, or change them to your desired band and make your own face plate. I need to swap a few values on my builds to match the face values more closely.

 

[Beatpeat]

Hi Folks, im trying to get all the Parts together for this Build. Where did you get the 15, 33 and 68 UF Polyestercaps in rm 7,5 mm from? I cant find any proper types, smallest rm 22.5mm ? I could use tantal, that fits in there, but i think this is not how it supposed to be? Any ideas?

 

[TwentyTrees]

Are you sure about those values? A 68uF film cap would be about the size of a housebrick*. At lower decades you should be able to find something appropriate by browsing Mouser or similar.


*slight hyperbole, but still pretty damn big.

 

[Ó Draighnáin]

I'm pretty sure you (Beatpeat) mean nanofarad. I'm not sure about 15n (18n and 12n are used in the Helios eq section) but definitely 33n and 68n are part of the helios eq. 15n probably used because of a slightly different inductor value pairing? Actually, I just checked and I used 15n with a 200 mH tap (Carnhill inductor) in the mid switch for a 2k9 frequency (original was 2k8 I think).

The PCB probably requires something like below (5mm lead spacing):

https://nz.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKS20-.068-63-10?qs=wsLAKTqgg6jCmjeYxTWRlg==
There are probably dozens of options to choose from.

 

[Beatpeat]

Hi thank you for your feedback... no in the original BOM and scematic its said uF thats why im asking for... i have never seen this small Foilcaps in rm 7.5 with this high values... what did you use there?

CLO8 15uF
CM11 15uF
CLO7 33uF
CLO6 68uF

If its nanofarad then i will have these type of for shure... pls can someone confirm for CLO8, CM11, CLO7, CLO6?

@HerbertR, you recently build this kit, what did you use there?

View attachment HE_500_SCHEM_ALL.png

 

[TwentyTrees]

Ah, I see what's happened here. The schematic has these listed as "u68" and so on. That's a shorthand way of writing "0.68uF", or 680nF. So the values you're looking for are 680nF, 330nF, and 150nF - should be much easier to find what you're looking for in these values.

 

[Beatpeat]

Ah ok i did not know this. Thank you that make Sense…

 

[TwentyTrees]

Yeah, it's one of those things that you don't know until you know. It's a way of defining values in just three characters, eg:

• 6n8 = 6.8nF
• 68n = 68nF
• u68 = 680nF
• 6u8 = 6.8uF

etc.

 

[Beatpeat]

Hi folks,

regarding to the confusion with the carnhill inductors I tried to figure out what is going on on the PCB.
I followed the traces and tried to find where problems are and how they can be solved. For the small VTB 9048 inductor the PINS seem to be correct but confusing, because the connection is not at the marked places on the PCB but on the same trace at the right place. The traces have two connectionpoints and in this case the secondary connections seem to be correct. only the inductor must be placed 180 degrees flipped.

The Bassinductor VTB9043 really has a wrong connection, that is connected to PIN D(7H) not to PIN E(10H). But there is a simple workaround how it can be solved: Just cut the trace on the Top of the PCB that is connected to PIN D(7H) and then Bridge the PIN marked with 10H to PIN E(10H) on the Buttom of the PCB. The inductor must also be placed 180 degrees flipped. Do this before you hve solderd in the inductor otherwise you cant cut the trace.

VTB 9048
S=Start is connected, needed
A=200mH is connected with 200mh, needed
B=300mH not connected, not needed
C=600mH not connected, not needed
D=700mH with 00 mH connected, needed
Solution: Inductor VTB 9048 must be build in 180 degrees flipped

VTB 9043
S=Start is connected, needed
A=1,3H not connected, not needed
B=3H not connected, not needed
D=7H connected with 10H, not needed
E= 10H not connected, needed

Solution: Inductor VTB 9043 must be build in 180 degrees flipped
Cut the trace on the PCB that is going to PIN D and bridge hole 10H to inductor PIN E

I hope this helps to see clear...

 

[Beatpeat]

Just build up the filtersections…

 

[Forcemusicgroup]

Where can I purchase????