k brown
Well-known member
What do you mean, " no original JB Weld"?
Heat-resistant epoxy and similar materials (for a tube adapter)?
- Thread starter rock soderstrom
- Start date
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capacitorless
Well-known member
https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-Ori...B0B5VNG2YT?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext
Especially useful for automotive-type emergency repairs, since it's steel-filled (strong enough to drill/tap when fully cured).
Especially useful for automotive-type emergency repairs, since it's steel-filled (strong enough to drill/tap when fully cured).
garp
Well-known member
It's certainly conductive
k brown
Well-known member
capacitorless
Well-known member
@k brown I was just responding in a lighthearted manner to your comment about not using conductive epoxy (eg the stuff for wood should be safe). Sorry if I wasn't clear
Edit: that stuff might be a practical option for filling in a tight space that needs some shielding, though! Obviously when there's no chance of ever needing to get back in there. I need to get a fresh batch (of the original) and when I do I'll mix some up and measure the conductivity.
Edit: that stuff might be a practical option for filling in a tight space that needs some shielding, though! Obviously when there's no chance of ever needing to get back in there. I need to get a fresh batch (of the original) and when I do I'll mix some up and measure the conductivity.
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rock soderstrom
Tour de France
Let me briefly summarise my experiences.
For an adapter project like the one I did here (rather "cold" preamp tube on a gutted tube base), a substance that is quite liquid and hardens strongly is ideal. It shouldn't be too liquid either, which would otherwise complicate mould making. The hot glue is ideal, the temperature stability is more than sufficient for this tube, absolutely no problem.
I will build two more adapters, for which I will look for a suitable plastic (or metal?) tube that will serve as a mould and "cladding" at the same time. This will reduce the amount of post-processing work enormously and significantly improve the look.
Another project could be an adapter with a built-in load resistor to replace a very rare tube for microphones
. But you definitely need heat-resistant fill material for this, hot glue is absolutely not suitable for this kind of experiment. .
Stay tuned!
For an adapter project like the one I did here (rather "cold" preamp tube on a gutted tube base), a substance that is quite liquid and hardens strongly is ideal. It shouldn't be too liquid either, which would otherwise complicate mould making. The hot glue is ideal, the temperature stability is more than sufficient for this tube, absolutely no problem.
I will build two more adapters, for which I will look for a suitable plastic (or metal?) tube that will serve as a mould and "cladding" at the same time. This will reduce the amount of post-processing work enormously and significantly improve the look.
Another project could be an adapter with a built-in load resistor to replace a very rare tube for microphones
. But you definitely need heat-resistant fill material for this, hot glue is absolutely not suitable for this kind of experiment. .Stay tuned!
Forgive me if I missed any reasons why not (I often do!), but could you just use an octal tube base?
rock soderstrom
Tour de France
These octal tube bases are great, I also have some, ideal for building adapters!
The problem is, German steel tubes also have 8pins but a different layout, hence my DIY version. (Edit: They are rarer and, as far as I know, are no longer produced)
https://www.tubecollection.de/ura/stahlroehren_d.htm
also check this thread:
https://groupdiy.com/threads/diy-adapter-to-compare-modern-tubes-with-the-ef12k.85883/
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Disco Volante
Well-known member
Urethane potting compound like MG 8800 would work I guess?
Or any other urethane casting resin, possibly less heat tolerant. Comes in a range of colours so you could colour the "ultimate series" red and the recycled green?
Viel Spaß!
Or any other urethane casting resin, possibly less heat tolerant. Comes in a range of colours so you could colour the "ultimate series" red and the recycled green?
Viel Spaß!
scott2000
Well-known member
https://www.jbweld.com/product/wate...x1ZtbMPRfndCO-JI8E1KBSbaWMpgd8xvo7jsq0NO30Nn9
I've used similar from a marine shop and it worked great...sandable etc....
may be some higher heat ones... but this one is 250*
rock soderstrom
Tour de France
Thank you!Urethane potting compound like MG 8800 would work I guess?
Or any other urethane casting resin, possibly less heat tolerant. Comes in a range of colours so you could colour the "ultimate series" red and the recycled green?
Viel Spaß!
MG8800 also looks good. I think there is now something for every need in this thread.
The idea with the colors is actually very good
, I bought some glue sticks at LIDL this week (they were on sale), including different colors and properties. The next one will be red, for a 1620/6J7 to EF12k adapter, very stylish...they also had some with glitter flakes in them, but they were the only ones I didn't buy.
I am such a Parkside fanboy!
That's what happens when you live very close to LIDL. They should sponsor me!
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this probably sounds insane, but i would use a thick solvent silicone, like a thick caulk for this. not joking. i've done it before, and it works shockingly well. i used sil-bond 4500. an evaporative caulk is ideal for this, since there is no melting temperature, since it's not a thermoplastic. as soon as it sets hard, it can easily take hundreds of degrees.
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it was 7500 that i used
Brian Roth
Well-known member
There are a ton of "silicone stuff in a squeeze tube". From experience, if it really stinks....maybe like vinegar....those fumes will totally corrode switch and connector contacts.
Bri
Bri
Yes! It Depends on material compatibility with the solvent. You need to check that and select the silicone with the appropriate solvent
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