Hot air rework: help finding an inexpensive SOP hot air rework nozzle?

[capacitorless]

Hi, all! I need to desolder some AK4393 D/A converter ICs. They are in a 28 pin VSOP package.

I'm new to hot air rework, but not new to (de)soldering discrete stuff, haha! I'm starting out buying equipment for SMD work, and need a little guidance.

I'm looking at doing this hopefully the right way, similar to what this guy is doing. He is pulling a QFP chip, but I'd like to follow the same general technique. The biggest thing I need to avoid is to damage the boards that these chips are on.

I'm trying to find something a little less expensive than this Hakko. Dimensions of the AK4393 is the same as the AK4395 that's going in afterward: 9.8mm x 5.6mm (datasheet here)

Any leads, suggestions, alternatives?

 

[Rusan]

Amazon has generic nozzles and tips that are MUCH cheaper than genuine Hakko, if you're located in a country that they serve.

If the component's package only has pins on two opposing sides, I give them a tiny shot of liquid RA flux, then rake back and forth across them with my soldering iron while very gently applying upward pressure on the body with an extractor. If your soldering iron uses Hakko-compatible tips, there's a fine pointed, bent tip that works great for this.

When that side is free, I pause to allow the solder to cool, then move to the other side and repeat. I then mop up the remaining solder from the pads with a fine desoldering braid. Doing the "raking" trick with 14 pins might not be easy, though. I've never tried it.

When removing 2-pin SMD passives, I use a soldering iron with fine tips in each hand. I know, I know, I should just buy some hot tweezers, but (1) I only need 'em every great now and then, (2) I'm a real cheapskate when it comes to stuff like that, and (3) I'm quite ambidexterous anyway... might as well use it, lol.

 

[Khron]

If the component's package only has pins on two opposing sides, I give them a tiny shot of liquid RA flux, then rake back and forth across them with my soldering iron while very gently applying upward pressure on the body with an extractor. If your soldering iron uses Hakko-compatible tips, there's a fine pointed, bent tip that works great for this.

When that side is free, I pause to allow the solder to cool, then move to the other side and repeat. I then mop up the remaining solder from the pads with a fine desoldering braid. Doing the "raking" trick with 14 pins might not be easy, though. I've never tried it.

When removing 2-pin SMD passives, I use a soldering iron with fine tips in each hand. I know, I know, I should just buy some hot tweezers, but (1) I only need 'em every great now and then, (2) I'm a real cheapskate when it comes to stuff like that, and (3) I'm quite ambidexterous anyway... might as well use it, lol.

If anything, you'd want the widest / fattest tip you can fit in there, to get the most heat across. A fine tip may well melt the 1-2 pins it's in contact with at the time, but the solder will go back to solid as soon as the tip's away.

Same goes for 2-pin SMD's - with a wide-enough tip and some added solder, you can melt both ends at once, and just push the part off its pads (or pick it off with tweezers).

I use the raking trick with one-off SOP/SOIC/TSOP chips, when i'm lazy to reach for my hot-air wand, wait for it to heat up, then wait for the solder to melt etc.

 

[Newmarket]

Hi, all! I need to desolder some AK4393 D/A converter ICs. They are in a 28 pin VSOP package.

I'm new to hot air rework, but not new to (de)soldering discrete stuff, haha! I'm starting out buying equipment for SMD work, and need a little guidance.

I'm looking at doing this hopefully the right way, similar to what this guy is doing. He is pulling a QFP chip, but I'd like to follow the same general technique. The biggest thing I need to avoid is to damage the boards that these chips are on.

I'm trying to find something a little less expensive than this Hakko. Dimensions of the AK4393 is the same as the AK4395 that's going in afterward: 9.8mm x 5.6mm (datasheet here)

Any leads, suggestions, alternatives?

What rework station would you be using with that nozzle ?

 

[Rusan]

If anything, you'd want the widest / fattest tip you can fit in there, to get the most heat across. A fine tip may well melt the 1-2 pins it's in contact with at the time, but the solder will go back to solid as soon as the tip's away.

That's why I use the bent-point fine tip. It's small in diameter, but the bent area will contact many pins at once by holding it at the correct angle.

I never thought about adding some solder to the 2-pin components and then laying the tip across them. Duh! That's a WHOLE lot easier than using two irons at once. I amaze myself sometimes....

 

[Khron]

Well...

That, and/or "necessity is the mother of invention"...

 

[capacitorless]

What rework station would you be using with that nozzle ?

I don't know yet I'd love a high end tool like a Hakko, but I'm thinking of going low budget while I get my feet wet.

 

[FIX]

Small pin count, cut the pins with an exact knife, 2 sided only, blob solder on one side and lift, then bend back and fourth to break other pins. Clean board.

To resolver, solder one pin in each corner, then blob solder on the rest and remove with solder wick...

 

[deedee]

Hi, all! I need to desolder some AK4393 D/A converter ICs. They are in a 28 pin VSOP package.

I'm new to hot air rework, but not new to (de)soldering discrete stuff, haha! I'm starting out buying equipment for SMD work, and need a little guidance.

I'm looking at doing this hopefully the right way, similar to what this guy is doing. He is pulling a QFP chip, but I'd like to follow the same general technique. The biggest thing I need to avoid is to damage the boards that these chips are on.

I'm trying to find something a little less expensive than this Hakko. Dimensions of the AK4393 is the same as the AK4395 that's going in afterward: 9.8mm x 5.6mm (datasheet here)

Any leads, suggestions, alternatives?

Search Ebay for "858D", about £30.

Looks like cheap shit, but my former workplace has two of these and they get used daily with no problems.

 

[Newmarket]

Small pin count, cut the pins with an exact knife, 2 sided only, blob solder on one side and lift, then bend back and fourth to break other pins. Clean board.

To resolver, solder one pin in each corner, then blob solder on the rest and remove with solder wick...

That works - assuming you don't want to salvage the chips being removed.

Apart from that I can vouch for this (as an example of the product line):
https://uk.farnell.com/chip-quik/smd1/removal-kit-smd/dp/1850214

Also you can use an iron and 'flick' ic legs with eg a scalpel blade - I'll suggest Swann & Morton 10A - though whether the legs survive depends on your technique and the leg size/pitch.

But if going for hot air then that can be good - depending on the ic size and pin count.
To solder new part then solder paste with hot air is very effective but beware that the paste really does have a short shelf life before it turns to dry dust...

 

[Khron]

Small pin count, cut the pins with an exact knife, 2 sided only, blob solder on one side and lift, then bend back and fourth to break other pins. Clean board.

The one big downside with this technique is needing to be really careful not to slice through whatever traces might be running underneath the chip. That's one extra headache you could do without, i'm sure.

 

[capacitorless]

Thanks everyone for the awesome advice. SMT stuff is kind of tough detailed work, but it's amazing how much can be packed in.

The 858D (I'm seeing it for around $30 including shipping (!)) looks to be the good starter unit. I have a similar lower budget desoldering station that works well enough for everything I've done. At some point I can upgrade.

Yep, I'm looking to not touch the boards any more than required. I have a Classe CT-SSP to recap as well. I'm going to practice on something before I dig into either of them.

That Chip Quik stuff looks very interesting.

 

[JohnRoberts]

I bought a cheap chinese hot air station and it lasted a few years before crapping out, then I bought another cheap one... It is still working, but I'm not.

JR

 

[Khron]

With the 858's, you'll wanna pay careful attention to the earthing of the enclosure, it's not always... as well done as it could / should be. Other than that, mine's still alive and kicking (albeit only in sporadic use) after 11 years or so.

 

[JohnRoberts]

coincidentally my second one, still working is an 858D (no + sign)...

JR

 

[Ivan K.]

If you are in the US, try Electronics Test Equipment, Soldering, & Tools Supplier. They have quite a range of soldering & desoldering tools--Chinese, but OK quality. I've had one for 7-8 years and it still works.

 

[FIX]

Howard Electronics is good too.

 

[FIX]

The one big downside with this technique is needing to be really careful not to slice through whatever traces might be running underneath the chip. That's one extra headache you could do without, i'm sure.

My hands are so steady, some say I was born without the guilt gene...

 

[capacitorless]

Now, that explains a lot about myself! I just thought it was the coffee.

 

[capacitorless]

With the 858's, you'll wanna pay careful attention to the earthing of the enclosure, it's not always... as well done as it could / should be. Other than that, mine's still alive and kicking (albeit only in sporadic use) after 11 years or so.

Thanks for that advice. I've had a few pieces of inexpensive gear from the same general geographic area, and that seems to be a common thing