I wanna try silkscreening !

[Neeno]

Hi guys...
I always had my frontpanels laser engraved, but now, since I'm getting a bit better with the painting process, I would like to get something more.

I tried surfing the web looking for something about the silk screening process on painted metal, but it looks like all the people mess with t-shirts, textiles etc.

I'm sure that on this forum there is some silk screening (screen printing) expert that can shed a light for the guys like me.

Reading here and there i found out that yellow screens are better and to obtain a high resolution printin 305 is the way to go.
Now... what about the emulsion ? The ink type to use... squeegees ?

Probably there is a good supplier that offers some kind of kit... whatever...

If I recall Mr.Laury posted something about the process, but I can't find the post anymore.

Thank you for your help guys !

 

[kazper]

I would think that the format is the same with the exception of the type of paint and any prior material prep work needed. You may also need to spray a clear coat. There is some good info on google for it.

 

[glazer56]

I used to silk-screen T-shirts. Screening posters, or metal is basically they same process, just with differen't inks involved. Creating the screen is just like etching PC-Boards, you expose a pre-sensitized screen, and wash it out. You just need a dark room with a sink. You can even have someone create the screen for you if you don't want to muck with it. If you're only doing a few panels, you can clamp the screen down to a table ect... you don't need a special machine; you just have to be careful with the registration.

http://www.silkscreeningsupplies.com/

Cheers!

 

[mrclunk]

I did some research into this recently after a friend bought me as screen print kit. I'm yet to try it out...
You want to use a solvent based enamel ink, I have a note that Nazdar 59000 is the stuff to use on metal.
http://www.nazdar.com/screen_printing_prod.asp?categoryID=15&sectionID=174&attrCatID=7&attrID=27

 

[boji]

I hope you have better luck than I have. I tried UV sensitive stencils, both normal and high rez, and had mixed results- it's all about getting the paint's viscosity right.

I'd like to see how you do, also curious which paint you find works best for you. Post progress!

 

[leswatts]

I've silkscreened a few square miles of electronics products I guess. I even developed conductive inks for
thermistors , potentiometers, resistors, and the like.

About a 400 mesh poly screen would be good for panel work. Something around 0.5 mil emulsion, either liquid or film.

UV inks would be great if you have the gear to cure them. Otherwise, polyester baking inks.
Solvent based inks are easiest, since you can use sensitized gelatin type emulsion that develops with just a warm water wash after exposure. Most are photopolymer these days.

Screened ink is not as durable as etch and fill or laser of course. Overcoat helps.

BTW I tried a self  adhesive laser printed polycarbonate overlay on a prototype recently.
Looked great at first and was durable (printing is on the back side) but I find the pressure sensitive adhesive unreliable. It blisters up after a while.

Expensive too.

Les
L M Watts technolgy.

 

[kato]

I don't know if "dry transfers" are an economical alternative to silk-screening, as I've never priced these. But Metric Halo just sent out a promo e-mail about company: colorvu. Use code "MetricHalo" for 15% off your order. It looks intriguing.

edit: or DIY a dry transfer!

 

[Ptownkid]

I've used those pulsar products in the past with very little success.

 

[Neeno]

Guys ! This place is wonderful... and the ppl around here is even better !
So many informations... thank you all very much.

Solved based enamel ink seems the way to go. Good.
I'm going to get a couple screens this week, and all the chemicals involved.
And of course, I'll report back.

I still haven't found a small kit to try this before spending big money, but I'll take some more time and check again.

Thank you all !

 

[solderspongebob]

I'm really glad this thread has started as I too was wondering about getting some screenprinting gear together for 1-offs and prototypes. From what I looked at a while ago, a mesh of 300 was just about enough for text that was 2.5mm high, but the actual mesh and frame needs to be quite a bit larger than the panel you're screenprinting onto, in order to allow for the correct tension and height above the panel. This excludes being able to buy most ready made frames as they won't cover a full 19" panel.

BTW I tried a self  adhesive laser printed polycarbonate overlay on a prototype recently.
Looked great at first and was durable (printing is on the back side) but I find the pressure sensitive adhesive unreliable. It blisters up after a while.

I tried something similar by inkjet printing onto film, laminating it then adding a double-sided adhesive backing - it looked great until I tightened the pot and switch nuts onto it and then the label deformed and blistered around them. I think it could work if there was a 2-3mm acrylic/polycarbonate panel over the top, but then a third party would have to mill this for me and then it's not so DIY.

Looking forward to see what screenprinting results people get.

 

[JBVries]

Does anyone have any updated info on how successfully one goes about making their own panels?

 

[sharefilters]

I think that it's easy when you have the aluminum frame or wooden frame to clamp a monofilament polyester printing mesh.

Even if you cannot source the printing mesh from local shops or distributors of the printing meshes manufacturers and i think that you can contact the suppliers and ask them to send you the printing meshes.

 

[JohnRoberts]

I screened some metal panels back in the day but it is messy and a lot of work for onsey twosey jobs.

One trick that may save you some pain, get some clear wide label tape and put a layer of clear tape over the metal panel you plan to screen. That way you can lay down a screen and see how the alignment is before blowing any panels. Usually you can just wipe the ink off the clear tape, but easy to remove and try again until you get the panel fixture adjusted perfectly.

JR