JLM Baby Animal

[mrc]

I'd love to see your pre's and the cases. Love that pron.
mrc

 

[TornadoTed]

Hi Joe,

I know you come on here a bit. I have tried emailing an order for 4 more Baby animal kits a couple of times over the last month but without reply.

Are you busy or is there a differnet way to order now?

 

[TornadoTed]

An embarrassed bump. I hate hassling people especially nice people

Anyone know what's happening over at JLM? I know Joe is mega busy with a plethora of new products but if I know they aren't doing kits anymore I'll look at a differnet option. I have a really big session coming up 1st July and the producer requested more preamps for it.

I've sent another couple of emails the last month but still no reply. It must be coming up 3 months since the first email I sent.

 

[barney]

I've heard that Joe is moving his workshop to a new location so may be why they are having trouble getting back to you.

 

[Osse]

Hello ppl! :grin:

Sorry for the noobish question, but I've searched in the meta for answers, but it seems the question is to noobish to even be answered.

Do i have to watch out which way i put the caps in the PCB? there is no markings on the PCB's and not on the caps either, but I remember I had to watch it when I built the GSSL so I guess I have to do it here to.

How do I know which way to solder the caps, when no leg is shorter/no markings on the PCB?

Thanks!

 

[Osse]

Hello ppl! :grin:

Sorry for the noobish question, but I've searched in the meta for answers, but it seems the question is to noobish to even be answered.

Do i have to watch out which way i put the caps in the PCB? there is no markings on the PCB's and not on the caps either, but I remember I had to watch it when I built the GSSL so I guess I have to do it here to.

How do I know which way to solder the caps, when no leg is shorter/no markings on the PCB?

And also, which type of cap is the 0.1 uF?

Thanks!

 

[martthie_08]

Do i have to watch out which way i put the caps in the PCB?

for the six large electrolytics you have to watch for correct orientation. The plus is facing the switches on the PCB, minus faces the connectors. The minus on the cap itself is marked with a stripe, look at this pic from JLM:

If there is no stripe on your caps they might be bipolar caps, then orientation won't matter.

the 0.1 cap, is a ceramic, iirc

 

[Osse]

[quote author="martthie_08"]

Do i have to watch out which way i put the caps in the PCB?

for the six large electrolytics you have to watch for correct orientation. The plus is facing the switches on the PCB, minus faces the connectors. The minus on the cap itself is marked with a stripe, look at this pic from JLM:

If there is no stripe on your caps they might be bipolar caps, then orientation won't matter.

the 0.1 cap, is a ceramic, iirc[/quote]

Thanks!

The electrolytics I've got under control, it's the ceramics that I didn't really know. I've got the kit from JLM, so it's all their components, is the ceramic bi-polar?

And also, it's supposed to be a 10ohm resistor at one place, but the only value I can find is 15ohm, is that the one supposed for that place? It's brown/grey color, so not the same kind as the others I suppose.

Thank you very much!

 

[rodabod]

[quote author="Osse"]
The electrolytics I've got under control, it's the ceramics that I didn't really know. I've got the kit from JLM, so it's all their components, is the ceramic bi-polar?

And also, it's supposed to be a 10ohm resistor at one place, but the only value I can find is 15ohm, is that the one supposed for that place? It's brown/grey color, so not the same kind as the others I suppose.
[/quote]

All ceramics are effectively bipolar. You generally only need to worry about electrolytics and tantalums (they have the polarity marked anyway, so it is quite obvious).

The 15 Ohm resistor should be fine - I assume Joe included this as part of the kit. That resostor appears to just be there to limit the current from the supply in case the circuit asks for too much.

Roddy

 

[bluesgirl]

Hi,

I haven't been here for a long time mostly because I didn't have any questions.

I have two Baby Animals which I built back in 2006 and they have worked wonderfully. I would like to have some other variations to work with for different sounds. I am not sure of exactly what I want but would like to try out some options with the least cost.

My questions are:

Can the JH 990c be swapped for the 99v without any changes to the circuit on the BA? Will the JLM 1:4 txfmr work or would a Jensen yeild better results to the likes of a JH M-1?

Would the API 2520 swap also? I think I read that it requires a 1:8 transformer but can the JLM 1:4 work?

I am not sure what these other op amps sound like and only read about it. Can anyone tell me what they might be good for or the sound differences to the 99v. l mainly play a heavier blues rock type of guitar sound through a strat and also a classical guitar for acoustic blues and more subtle classical stuff. My music is all instrumental so I am not concerned about vocals.

I like the 99v for some things but not everything especially not the subtle acoustic stuff. I recently used the TFPro pre's that are built in my EMU 1820m and was astounded at how clean they were for some acoustic classical guitar type stuff which i guess is the "no coloring the sound" thingy. I guess I am kinda starting to learn that differences in what one pre does as opposed to another.

Help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Bluesgirl

 

[3nity]

then i guess a good combo will be Lundhal transformer and BB2604 IC.
What you think?

But then again i really dig my Green preamps for Classical axes....10/10 or something transformless design.

 

[wolfgang]

If you look on page 2 of this thread there is a good combinationn summary by matta somewhere in the middle of the page!

wolfgang

 

[bluesgirl]

Thanks for the reply wolfgang. I saw matta's post but it doesn't give any specifics only possible combos.

Well from that chart on the JLM site it appears that I wouldn't have to do any modifications and either the 990 or the 2520 would just drop in. I am running at 62v and I know that the 990 is +-24v but from the chart it appears that I could still use either of the options at 62v.

Is that correct?

I wouldn't want to blow anything up SO......

Can anyone tell me for sure about this here? Should I email Joe directly about this one?

Thanks

bluesgirl

 

[wolfgang]

Hello Bluesgirl!

I had a look into the 990 datasheet and you can run them from +-12V to +-24V!!!
ANd the 2520 is +-15V to +-18V i think

So powering them with your PSU is not a good idea!

But you have 2 choices:

1. When you have the large PSU from JLM you can lower the voltage to 48V which would give you +-24V.
Then you can power the 99V from Joe and the Hardy 990.(But no 2520)
This is descriped at the BA Kit Site on the bottom.

2. On the BA PCB you can put a BD681 and a zener diode in for wanted voltage. A pro is that you can have different power rails in different BA PCB´s.

The right zener for +- 24V for Hardy and the right one for +-16V for 2520 or other opamps.
PSU power stays the same!

There is also a table ion the JLM site.

If you run your Ba´s on 62V you have done this BD/Zener Combo for 48V Phantom Power. Its the same thing for the opamps power rails!

I hope this helps!

Regards,
Wolfgang

 

[bluesgirl]

Thanks wolfgang. You totally cleared the smoke that was in my eyes for that chart. I now see what I have to do. Funny I had looked at that chart before and always only read half of it. I get it now.

Am I right that I have to change the one cap to 470uf 50v to run at 48v or can it stay at the 330uf 63v?

I guess for all purposes I will go to 48v since that looks the easiest for now and maybe forget about the 2520 for now and try some of those other options like the 992, 993. Of course I don't know where to get those. I know where to get the 990c though. From John Hardy.
I know the Hybrid is JLM.

Do u know where to get any of those others 992, 993?

Also if I were to try a different transformer such as a Jensen I don't know what changes I would need to do since they are not listed on the JLM tranxfrmr chart.

How would I find that info out?

Thank you so much.

Bluesgirl

 

[martthie_08]

I guess for all purposes I will go to 48v since that looks the easiest for now and maybe forget about the 2520

you just have to add three parts iirc to be able to run a +/- 16V opamp like the 2520 or Melcor or whatever on a 48V rail. Btw, I am using a SGA-SOA-1 designed by one of our forum members Samuel in one of my JLM BA, the other BA has a DIY990, on -/- 24V.

Do u know where to get any of those others 992, 993?

try contacting Fred Forssell

Also if I were to try a different transformer such as a Jensen I don't know what changes I would need to do since they are not listed on the JLM tranxfrmr chart.

How would I find that info out?

try to see if the manufacturer has any information on this, look at the technical papers, sometimes you can find something.


I don't know if you have seen this, it is interesting, but I believe they did seperate takes for each clip, so the player may have moved in front of the mic making judgement difficult. http://www.thelisteningsessions.com/session9.htm

 

[bluesgirl]

Thanks martthie_08 that is good info.

Yea I want to go to 48v and other voltages but right now I don't know what I did with the extra parts from the BA kits when I built them 2 yrs ago. At the least I need that 470uf 50v cap to change the 330v one on the board for 48v supply. I have no idea what I did with them.

I have been to the listeningsessions before so I will check that out.

I see that the 992 and 993 are available on the the Forssell website. Kinda expensive but avaialable.

I see that the SGA-SOA is available as a kit from diypartsupply.com for $18 which is very reasonable.
Is it easy to build and what does it sound like?

Thanks for your help.

Bluesgirl

 

[martthie_08]

I see that the SGA-SOA is available as a kit from diypartsupply.com for $18 which is very reasonable.
Is it easy to build and what does it sound like?

well, it has been a while since I built it, but there were no issues whatsoever. It sounds very good, at this price just get one, maybe also a DIY990 kit and a 2520 from somewhere and pick one for yourself. Sell the ones you won't be using or just build another box with them. To be honest I find the opamps do not make as big a difference in sound as transformers, at least in my ears, you would really have to set up a A / B rig.

 

[bluesgirl]

Thanks martthie_08 and wolfgang. I appreciate all the help. I got the caps I need from Fry's electronics today to change to 48v psu so I will decide what I am going to do as far as opamps and stuff soon. I will possibly be back for more questions later.

Thanks again.



Bluesgirl

 

[Osse]

When I look at the wiring overlay at the baby animal site, it looks like there is supposed to be some kind of PCB PSU that the DC connector is connected to, before getting connected to the preamps, but I didn't recieve any of those kinds of PCB's with my order, how should I do about this?

Thanks!