sahib
Well-known member
I've had these Triad TX-3X and a pair of A-133X auto transformers lying about at the workshop for years. As they were primarily made for CRT TV sets, I offered them on the BM at a give away price for experimentation but they did not receive any attention. So, today I thought I would modify them with separate primary-secondary and see if they would amount to something.
I knew that TX-3X would not amount to anything, as it tolerated 950mA DC in the primary and had winding resistance of half an ohm. More like an inductor than an audio transformer. It indeed turned out to be the case and had a lower cut-off of 1.5kHz. So, straight into the scrap metal box.
But with A-133X I hit the jackpot. To my delight it responded to 15Hz-25kHz flat, and had a turns ratio of about 10:1. So, I thought of documenting what I've done. In case you come across one or two at a reasonably good price, just grab them, do the mod and you'll have a nice pair of output transformers.
For those who do not know what an auto transformer is, it is just a normal transformer but with primary and secondary sharing a common tap. So, the modification involves separating the primary and secondary. The red wire in the below picture no 1 is the common tap. Yellow is primary and blue is secondary.

In the below picture no 2 the ends of the secondary are clearly visible. Be careful here as the wire is much thinner than the primary. So, when cutting up the insulating paper and removing the fly leads take great care.

Below picture no 3 shows it opened up. The blue arrows are the thin secondary wires. The yellow are the primary which are much thicker and easier to work with. When you solder a fly lead (shown in picture no 4) immediately secure it using a glue. I have used low melt glue for this. Do not try to solder all of the fly leads at once and then secure them as there can be a risk of breaking the secondary wires. Solder one, glue it and then move onto the next one. I do not know what generally people do for removing the enamel from the copper wire. I use a surgical scalpel to scrape it off. This again requires extreme care for thin wires as you can easily scrape the whole wire off. (I have a modelmaking background, so I am good at doing things like this.)


Picture no 5 below shows all the fly leads soldered and secured. Once this was done I bent the fly leads upwards as I wanted them to exit from the top, as shown in picture no 6. This also brings additional security in case they are pulled unintentionally.


I then sealed the whole thing with low melt glue as shown in picture no 7 and 8. It does not particularly look pretty, and I am not sure if it would get me to be accepted to apprenticeship with CJ, but it functions well. I may put an insulation tape all around to secure it further as hot glue may release itself in time.


A nice pair of (about) 10:1 output transformers.

I knew that TX-3X would not amount to anything, as it tolerated 950mA DC in the primary and had winding resistance of half an ohm. More like an inductor than an audio transformer. It indeed turned out to be the case and had a lower cut-off of 1.5kHz. So, straight into the scrap metal box.
But with A-133X I hit the jackpot. To my delight it responded to 15Hz-25kHz flat, and had a turns ratio of about 10:1. So, I thought of documenting what I've done. In case you come across one or two at a reasonably good price, just grab them, do the mod and you'll have a nice pair of output transformers.
For those who do not know what an auto transformer is, it is just a normal transformer but with primary and secondary sharing a common tap. So, the modification involves separating the primary and secondary. The red wire in the below picture no 1 is the common tap. Yellow is primary and blue is secondary.

In the below picture no 2 the ends of the secondary are clearly visible. Be careful here as the wire is much thinner than the primary. So, when cutting up the insulating paper and removing the fly leads take great care.

Below picture no 3 shows it opened up. The blue arrows are the thin secondary wires. The yellow are the primary which are much thicker and easier to work with. When you solder a fly lead (shown in picture no 4) immediately secure it using a glue. I have used low melt glue for this. Do not try to solder all of the fly leads at once and then secure them as there can be a risk of breaking the secondary wires. Solder one, glue it and then move onto the next one. I do not know what generally people do for removing the enamel from the copper wire. I use a surgical scalpel to scrape it off. This again requires extreme care for thin wires as you can easily scrape the whole wire off. (I have a modelmaking background, so I am good at doing things like this.)


Picture no 5 below shows all the fly leads soldered and secured. Once this was done I bent the fly leads upwards as I wanted them to exit from the top, as shown in picture no 6. This also brings additional security in case they are pulled unintentionally.


I then sealed the whole thing with low melt glue as shown in picture no 7 and 8. It does not particularly look pretty, and I am not sure if it would get me to be accepted to apprenticeship with CJ, but it functions well. I may put an insulation tape all around to secure it further as hot glue may release itself in time.


A nice pair of (about) 10:1 output transformers.

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