Neve style 500 series mic pre 1290 1073

[Blondino.82]

Hi there, getting my hands dirty starting building one of those. I'm still going thru the "simple" step, ordering the right components ... So far seems I found everything, but I have trouble with one resistor:

- 1.5K  1/3W 1%

Seems impossible to find... Can I use something else in alternative?
I know this is not much to ask, but I will come up with more question don't worry ;D
thanks

 

[Whoops]

but I have trouble with one resistor:

- 1.5K  1/3W 1%

Seems impossible to find... Can I use something else in alternative?

Use an higher rated resistor, 1/2W or more.

https://www.banzaimusic.com/1-5k-RES-0-6W.html

plenty of options from mouser also:

https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Resistors/Film-Resistors/_/N-7gz3w?P=1z0wn1jZ1z0wkq1Z1yzbppyZ1ytork2Z1z0wo4nZ1z0wjc0Z1z0whk4Z1yzekinZ1z0x8amZ1z0z819Z1y95l7nZ1z0wljo

 

[Blondino.82]

Use an higher rated resistor, 1/2W or more.

https://www.banzaimusic.com/1-5k-RES-0-6W.html

plenty of options from mouser also:

https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Resistors/Film-Resistors/_/N-7gz3w?P=1z0wn1jZ1z0wkq1Z1yzbppyZ1ytork2Z1z0wo4nZ1z0wjc0Z1z0whk4Z1yzekinZ1z0x8amZ1z0z819Z1y95l7nZ1z0wljo

Thanks Whoops, this was helpful...

To make the extensions wire for pots or switch in the manual said to use something similar to 22AWG/24AWG. I don't think I have it home. If I use the inside of an audio cable will work fine?

And by the way about the phantom switch. I saw in the BOM, David suggested a 3 way toggle switch. I do Have few of those home, that are just 2 way. They should works just fine right?   
Thanks again

 

[Whoops]

To make the extensions wire for pots or switch in the manual said to use something similar to 22AWG/24AWG. I don't think I have it home. If I use the inside of an audio cable will work fine?

Well, "audio cable" is quite an extensive range of cables. Impossible to know what the gauge of your wire might be,
sometimes the conductor can be quite thin in some more affordable cables.
Can't you buy wire locally?

If you have restraints with the Covid, don't you have some broken electrical device that you need to take to the bin, or any friend with a broken device they don't want?
You could recycle wire from one of those things. I see people with old VCR, Radios, old DVD players, power supplies, computer PSU,  that don't work but somehow they still keep it in their garages/basement/attic. You can recycle wire from any of those units

And by the way about the phantom switch. I saw in the BOM, David suggested a 3 way toggle switch. I do Have few of those home, that are just 2 way. They should works just fine right?   

I never built this project, can you please show the schematic.
I really don't see why a "3 way toggle switch" is recommended,  it doesn't make sense to me, maybe I'm missing something but the schematic will clear that up

 

[Blondino.82]

Well, "audio cable" is quite an extensive range of cables. Impossible to know what the gauge of your wire might be,
sometimes the conductor can be quite thin in some more affordable cables.
Can't you buy wire locally?

Yes I can buy locally no problem. I was talking about microphone cable, or part of cable I cut out from output transformers when I made other build. I mean, I always used those for the phantom switch,  I don't see any difference for this project. My concern is more for the pot. I never had to extended those, always soldered on PCB. 


I never built this project, can you please show the schematic.
I really don't see why a "3 way toggle switch" is recommended,  it doesn't make sense to me, maybe I'm missing something but the schematic will clear that up

In the BOM I found on the website, this is the Mouser part they suggest: 633-M201101
and is a 3 way toggle switch.

On the website they have the original schematics for maintenance: http://www.thedonclassics.com/nv73-diy.html
but also if you see a picture from the manual, the toggle switch has only 2 wire and one of 3 leg is cut off.

 

[Whoops]

In the BOM I found on the website, this is the Mouser part they suggest: 633-M201101
and is a 3 way toggle switch.

might be a mistake in the BOM as I really don't see why to use a 3 way toogle switch (on - none - off) , you want to turn the Phantom on and off, no reason for a middle position.

The schematic is also clear about this, it's a 2 way SPST switch, On and Off.
Pretty simple

 

[Whoops]

I do Have few of those home, that are just 2 way. They should works just fine right?   

Yes, definitely

 

[Blondino.82]

might be a mistake in the BOM as I really don't see why to use a 3 way toogle switch (on - none - off) , you want to turn the Phantom on and off, no reason for a middle position.

The schematic is also clear about this, it's a 2 way SPST switch, On and Off.
Pretty simple

;D thanks  again, I just need confirmation on stuff, I'm not really good on reading schematics yet, this year I'm learning about components big time!!!

When it said "MATCH those 2 as best as possible" what exactly means? on the BOM I have 6K81 and that is what I got. Should I compare more resistors between them and find those are close to 6K79? like matching transistors ?

Well is all for now, but I'll be back with more questions for sure!!!

 

[Whoops]

;D thanks  again, I just need confirmation on stuff, I'm not really good on reading schematics yet, this year I'm learning about components big time!!!

Well you shouldn't learn how to read a schematic this year, you should learn it now, it's really simple, there's not a lot to it.
There's only 5 or 6  main components (resistor,capacitor,transistor,transformer, diode) in a schematic then it's just a matter of following lines, so it's pretty easy.
Better earlier than later and specially when you are building a project, because that will help you out a lot in troubleshooting

When it said "MATCH those 2 as best as possible" what exactly means? on the BOM I have 6K81 and that is what I got. Should I compare more resistors between them and find those are close to 6K79? like matching transistors ?

That means, get a bag of 10 or 20 resistors , 1% tolerance, of the same value, measure all of them with the same DMM (multimeter) choose 2 that measure the same on the same multimeter.
1% resistors of the same production will be pretty close between all of them

 

[Blondino.82]

I just check my 6K8 xicon and I found 2 that are 6K79... this should work said by the schematics. Well I will received also 6K81 since I order them yesterday :-[

 

[Whoops]

I just check my 6K8 xicon and I found 2 that are 6K79

Matching done.
Don't need to wait

 

[Blondino.82]

I found myself for the first time having to make a weird solder on the PCB for this build. I'm connecting the shield cable on the PCB's back and I see that  the shield ended up in the same hole where I should connect one pin of the output potentiometer (OV on PCB). Now, since I never done it before, can someone confirm I'm doing right and maybe give me some advice how to do a nit job? I was thinking to try to put both cable in the PCB hole and solder them together from the back... This is literally a surgical operation  

 

[Whoops]

I found myself for the first time having to make a weird solder on the PCB for this build. I'm connecting the shield cable on the PCB's back and I see that  the shield ended up in the same hole where I should connect one pin of the output potentiometer (OV on PCB). Now, since I never done it before, can someone confirm I'm doing right and maybe give me some advice how to do a nit job? I was thinking to try to put both cable in the PCB hole and solder them together from the back... This is literally a surgical operation

seems good, doesn't seem strange to me

 

[Blondino.82]

Here we are with more question. Slowly I'm receiving the components and I'm putting this guy together. I see a thing I never saw before. I have two ceramic capacitors to place on the main PCB and one on the 16V to 24V small PCB. are the same  and I ordered this from the BOM: FG11X7R1H105KNT0.
On both PCB I see that the insert holes are like the hole for an Axial, Electrolytic capacitors, means that one is square (for the positive side) and one is rounded (for the negative). But as far as I know ceramic capacitors have not anode and cathode side right? I wanna be sure before putting them in place.

Then for replacing resistor R44-1K5 33W, I follow Whoops suggestion and I order extras 60W (594-MRS25000C1501FRP), since I need those anyway in this build. But compare to other resistors (example 1/4=25W), on this one said 600mW= .6W. when it should be 600mW=60W.
My doubt now is if this value is smaller or bigger then 33W???

 

[Whoops]

1 milliwatt = 0.001 watts

I never told you to buy 60W resistors

1/3W = 0.33W
1/4W = 0.25W
600mW= 0.6W

 

[Whoops]

On both PCB I see that the insert holes are like the hole for an Axial, Electrolytic capacitors, means that one is square (for the positive side) and one is rounded (for the negative). But as far as I know ceramic capacitors have not anode and cathode side right? I wanna be sure before putting them in place.

Check the schematic, it will be clear if that specific cap is polarized or not

 

[Blondino.82]

1 milliwatt = 0.001 watts

I never told you to buy 60W resistors

1/3W = 0.33W
1/4W = 0.25W
600mW= 0.6W

Cool, this explained a lot how much I was confused about this scale

 

[Blondino.82]

Check the schematic, it will be clear if that specific cap is polarized or not

You are putting me to learn that ;D... well there are not + or - simbols on schematic, so it works just like any other ceramic capacitors.

Going back to the shield cable in the back. Fortunally I go over stuff several time because I missed that one side the shield is on OV on PCB, the other one is cut out, so the pot has the hole all by itself. I don't get why the shield is cut out, but this is what the manual said and I follow.

 

[Blondino.82]

I don't get this part. Ok I put the sockets on the legs, i cut them I tiny bit since too long. Then should I solder the sockets to the legs?

Even if I do so, the top part of the legs are square and make the socket a bit farther from the PCB. It wouldn't be a problem for me if the 2 remaining pin on the red circle I put on pics won't reach their designated hole on PCB. and socket won't fit either.
I can't push harder the pin or I'm gonna damage the tiny legs. I can expand the hole 's sockets, at least i don't know how :'( :'(

 

[Whoops]

I don't get why the shield is cut out, but this is what the manual said and I follow.

avoiding ground loops, shielding only needs to be connected on one side to do its job